Hi all, just sent my app in for my card the other day should have the real deal within a month. Im wondering if any of you have expierence on bringing cold air (sometimes up to -60 im my location) into my grow room. I was thinking maybe i could use alot more lamp with cold air cooling in a tight spot
Alaska Problems
- Thread starter toooom
- Start date
Slipon
Well-Known Member
hmmm that is cold, Im in Denmark and we also have winters here, and I don't plan to direct the cold air directly in to my grow room, I will let it in to the room my grow room is located in and where my passive intake is, so I have nice fresh air/co2 flow but not directly from the out side, don't think my plants would like to get the heat from a 600W cool hood on top and minus degree ice cold air in from beneath .. also think I read some where that the root zone need to be with in 60-70F and about letting ice cold air through a cool tube/hood, been thinking about it, but don't think my bulb would like it ? dunno don't think I will risk it, and I don't need it either, have no problems keep perfect temps after I got the cool hood on my 600W HPS
hotrodharley
Well-Known Member
Damned right use it. I use open parabolic reflectors, EM ballasts and lots of CFL. Fans and open windows all year, just less open in winter. In Mat Su.
hotrodharley
Well-Known Member
Cool the light? Harvest that heat.
hotrodharley
Well-Known Member
I figure why run dryer line all over the place, mounting the ends for intake, exhaust when you can just open or close a window?
Do you know how much opening a window costs in fuel in my location? if i decide to vent in or out i will def be using some kind of one way damper to not lose heat out of my house. Lets say i was doing a purple strain and ppl say in the last week to expose it to cold temps...how cold is cold? Is it the shock that makes them turn if so the bigger the shock the better?
hotrodharley
Well-Known Member
That's doubtful. Pot can survive light freezes if the root mass isn't hit. There's a starting reference.
hotrodharley
Well-Known Member
When I say open a window I live in AK too. I'm talking crack that sucker just enough so your heat stays under 80 if you can't vent that heated air into your living space. I even use the exhaust air from the clothes dryer in winter. Dryer line with a stocking over it for lint. Nice humid warmed air.
Krondizzel
New Member
Not completely true. Had a 4" fan blowing 20 degree air 4 inches from a 1000w mh. Worked fine.
Silicity
Well-Known Member
20 degrees? ha ha, were talking -20+
woodsmantoker
Well-Known Member
Howdy Folks!
Utilization of all energy produced only makes sense. We pay for every kilo watt, why not take advantage of what we can right? I agree.
The idea in cooling your lights, does not take away from the ability to recycle the incidental heat the bulbs and ballast produce, but rather it makes redirecting the heat possible and away from the plants canopy or "tops". This allows the grower to efficiently lower lights to the garden canopy taking advantage of lumen output. What should be taken into consideration however, is that if you are attempting to use incidental heat, you are for all intents and purpose trying to increase efficiency. If so, having control of all heating and cooling elements makes the most sense. When cooling the lights, air can be pulled (not pushed! exhaust fans are made to pull more efficiently than push, keep that in mind when working with HVAC) from cooler areas, and dumped into areas of interest for heating. In order to cool the light, move air quickly past the bulb rather than use cold temperatures. This can be done via inline duct fans and high CFM exhaust fans. Placement of ballasts can also be useful and key in controlling grow room temperatures as well as recycling heat for home use. Creating a "control" environment works very well in not only utilizing incidental heat efficiently, but also in assisting at keeping temperatures consistent which is more critical to the health of the plants than many give thought. (keep temperatures from fluctuating more then 10 degrees. 68 - 78 range depending on cycle, stage of cycle, etc. Cannabis can tolerate warmer temperatures with the assistance of CO2) By directing heat into and from a sealed and insulated environment (this can be as small as a box, or large as an entire room) it is easier to control temperatures with the ambient air exchange, rather than a single heat source that changes in temperature drastically as it moves away from the heat source such as a ballast or bulb typically. Duct stats (purchasable at most hardware stores Lowes, etc. Online if your a bushman like myself) can also be of BIG help in controlling temperatures as they also control the speed at which the air is being exchanged. If running a sealed room with CO2, pull air through ducting into a cooler area and back again (i ran my room air down through the floor and under the cabin and back up, through hard 6" ducting) in order to change temperatures of the room without loss of produced CO2 gas. Again, a duct stat comes in handy here.
Hope this helps some folks.
Woodsmantoker~
Utilization of all energy produced only makes sense. We pay for every kilo watt, why not take advantage of what we can right? I agree.
The idea in cooling your lights, does not take away from the ability to recycle the incidental heat the bulbs and ballast produce, but rather it makes redirecting the heat possible and away from the plants canopy or "tops". This allows the grower to efficiently lower lights to the garden canopy taking advantage of lumen output. What should be taken into consideration however, is that if you are attempting to use incidental heat, you are for all intents and purpose trying to increase efficiency. If so, having control of all heating and cooling elements makes the most sense. When cooling the lights, air can be pulled (not pushed! exhaust fans are made to pull more efficiently than push, keep that in mind when working with HVAC) from cooler areas, and dumped into areas of interest for heating. In order to cool the light, move air quickly past the bulb rather than use cold temperatures. This can be done via inline duct fans and high CFM exhaust fans. Placement of ballasts can also be useful and key in controlling grow room temperatures as well as recycling heat for home use. Creating a "control" environment works very well in not only utilizing incidental heat efficiently, but also in assisting at keeping temperatures consistent which is more critical to the health of the plants than many give thought. (keep temperatures from fluctuating more then 10 degrees. 68 - 78 range depending on cycle, stage of cycle, etc. Cannabis can tolerate warmer temperatures with the assistance of CO2) By directing heat into and from a sealed and insulated environment (this can be as small as a box, or large as an entire room) it is easier to control temperatures with the ambient air exchange, rather than a single heat source that changes in temperature drastically as it moves away from the heat source such as a ballast or bulb typically. Duct stats (purchasable at most hardware stores Lowes, etc. Online if your a bushman like myself) can also be of BIG help in controlling temperatures as they also control the speed at which the air is being exchanged. If running a sealed room with CO2, pull air through ducting into a cooler area and back again (i ran my room air down through the floor and under the cabin and back up, through hard 6" ducting) in order to change temperatures of the room without loss of produced CO2 gas. Again, a duct stat comes in handy here.
Hope this helps some folks.
Woodsmantoker~
woodsmantoker
Well-Known Member
I could have swore I left it on the table...
AKgreenvalley
Member
woodsmantoker, i'd love to eventually get out in the bush and enjoy life. what are you using to power your grow lights? what kinda geny i mean, power output and what kinda power is your grow running if you don't mind my asking of course.
woodsmantoker
Well-Known Member
Akgreenvally. Sorry I am late.
240. D-cell banks powered by hybrid solar,hydro, and wind tubines, and old cannery cummins diesel generator. Worked on recovering tidal energy with UAF and may try putting together my own system someday who knows.
240. D-cell banks powered by hybrid solar,hydro, and wind tubines, and old cannery cummins diesel generator. Worked on recovering tidal energy with UAF and may try putting together my own system someday who knows.
