Aerogarden Leaks

sheapdog420

Active Member
Finally got my aerogarden all put together. Its a version of the stinkbud system. Fired her up for a test run, and the top tote leaks. It appears that the seal between the tote and the cap is not sufficient. It does not leak anywhere else, just between the top cap and its tote. Is there a way to seal it off, while at the same time not making it permanent so I can clean between grows?
 
Finally got my aerogarden all put together. Its a version of the stinkbud system. Fired her up for a test run, and the top tote leaks. It appears that the seal between the tote and the cap is not sufficient. It does not leak anywhere else, just between the top cap and its tote. Is there a way to seal it off, while at the same time not making it permanent so I can clean between grows?
I'd sure like a picture of the problem or the parts because your terminology doesn't jive with what A/G calls those parts. Sorry.
 
Thats probably because its a DIY aeroponics system. I'll try and explain a little better. It's the vegging system from stinkbud's; for reference purposes. There are 2 rubbermaid containers: 1 for the reservoir, and the other for the misting chamber and roots. The misting chamber's lid will not hold the seal and water leaks out along the edges, all the way around. I was told that rope caulk (cord weatherstrip) @ Lowes window/door weatherstrip section will do the trick from a member of StinBud's forums. The guy said he hasn't had a leak in over 2 years on his system. I'm just double checking all advice and opinions before proceeding. If I don't get anymore replies I'll try it and let you guys know how it works out.

I'm iffy on posting pictures for various reasons. I call it paranoia. Sorry.
 
Sheapdog: Sounds like you have n aeroponic system. Sorry for the confusion. Aerogarden is a registered trade mark so i thought you had an A/G unit like mine. I'm interested in what you have because if they pass the legalization of M/J for recreational use in my state in November I want to put together a system like you have. What are your using to seal it? Is it a significant leak or something like seepage that could be trapped and reclaimed? Did you clean both surfaces of your tubs with alcohol before you applied your weather strip sealer? Did you remember not to stretch it? A friend didn't on his and he has the same problem. I hope this helps.
 
HSA,

I haven't even had the chance to buy it yet, I mine as well do it tonite as I'm currently out of smoke and need to get it going. The guy who told me said it was called rope caulk. Its enough of a leak that I would have a significant puddle on my floor in less than an hour. Thanks for tha alcohol and non-stretching tips, I might not have done that. Good luck with the ballot in november, the whole damn world will be watching that one. Actually the whole damn world will be watching the entire election come November...IMO.
 
Sheapdog: I saw somewhere, on a video maybe from You tube where they showed putting it together. They used a thick automotive type after market weatherstrip like you can get from Manny, Moe and Jack or most auto parts stores. It's about an inch wide and about 3/8 of an inch thick. It comes on a roll and it has an adhesive on one side protected by a tape like covering. If you clean the tub's lid surface with alcohol, not the kind you drink, it sticks and it's thick enough to seal well. You might want to investigate this and take some real careful measurements. Please let us know how it comes out because a lot of us are counting on your success.
 
Well I went to Menard's and found the rope caulk. It was $1.99 for 30 ft worth. Its almost like a clay substance. I cleaned the lid off with rubbing alcohol, and applied it to the edge. Put the cover back on and fired her up. Not one drop spilled or leaked. Successful test run complete. Now the fun begins. LMAO when you mentioned to use alcohol that you don't drink!

In retrospect I think I mayhave gone with a different product than rope calk. When I sealed up my doorways for the last winter, I used what HSA was talking about above. Only the one I used was about 1/2" wide. It would appear that the rope caulk could potentially pull off due to the nature of the clay-like substance. Whereas the door sealer doesn't come off easily at all. I had to take a sharp knife to get that off for this summer due to door expansion from humidity. Price-wise the products are similar.

Just talked to the man about using the sticky stuff instead, and he brought up a valid point. He said he didn't use the rubber stuff cause of the porous nature of rubber, thus creating a potential problem with germs and contamination. I'm thinking it may be a valid reason. He also mentioned to replace the rope caulk after every cleaning cause it will come off when you open the spraying chamber. So basically don't open the spraying chamber except for cleaning. Besides, its an easy 30 second fix to replace and real cheap.
 
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