1st Grow- Spots, Limp, and Stunted Growth Wht Rhino, Wht Castle seems ok

Grow Closet:
37 ¼” Wide X 26” Depth X 8’6” Height. Entire inside painted with antibacterial fungi, flat white paint. Floors are tile and are not white but more of light sand color.
2X shelves: 1[SUP]st[/SUP] shelve (bottom), using as vegetative and clone area with a T5 24 light.
2[SUP]nd[/SUP] shelve using for flowering, 250w conversion HSP/HM light.
December 2, 2011 at 6:00 P.M.: Planted 2x White Rhino feminized seeds and 2x White Castle seeds.
Equipment: Germination Kit by Nirvana, 4 spongepot, <1/4 cup of water and ½ the bag of Bacto,
shipped with the germination Kit.
Propagator Pro (Nirvana), bag of perlite.
Toothpick that is marked at 2mm
Mixed Bacto and H2O (used bottled H2O) together.
Poked hole in spongepot to 2mm using toothpick as depth gauge. (The pre-made holes were to deep had to cover some of the bottom hole.)
Placed seed in each hole using sterilized tweezers (rubbing alcohol wiped to sterilize.)
Tried to place seed with root tip down but some flipped.
Covered the opening with slight amount of the spongepot material.
Using a clean syringe sucked the Bacto/H2O mixture into syringe.
Placed perlite (added more perlite I had along with what was shipped with the germination kit) and spread on bottom of propagator tray.
Using ½ the Bacto/H2O mixture and evenly spread over the perlite with the syringe.
Most of the reaming other ½ of Bacto/H2O mixture used on the spongepots (did not want to over water them) so after the spongepots were moist I saved the remaining mixture for hydrating the spongepots in the next 12 hours if needed.
Placed Propagator lid onto base, turned on light.
Placed Propagator onto heating pad used for animals in my grow closet.

December 3, 2011, 6:00 A.M.: Checked to make sure perlite is moist and spongepots are also moist. Used remaining of Bacto/H2o mixture to hydrate spongepots and remaining used on perlite. Average Temp High 80 degrees F, Humidity at 40%, Average Low Temp 77.8 degrees F, Humidity 30%.
December 4, 2011: 6:00 A.M: Both of the White Rhinos are poking thru soil. Check moisture of Perlite and spongepots. Did not need any H2O. High Temp 80.2 degrees F, Humidity at 40%, Average Low Temp 70.9 degrees F, Humidity 30%.
DEC. 5-6[SUP]TH[/SUP]: 1 White rhino and 1 white castle struggling pulled both on Dec. 6[SUP]th[/SUP], 2011. White castle had broken stem which I made worse and the other (white rhino) may have had not enough H2O. Transplanted the 2 remaining plants into a mixture of:
1 part vermiculite
1 part Perlite
1 part Seedling soil
1 part Sphagnum peat moss
Mixed all together and moistened with H2O, using 56.6 fluid ounces (1.76875 quarts, 7.075 cups, or 1.68 liters) sized containers. Before placing plug in new container added MYKOs (pure mycorrhizal inoculant), <than 1 tablespoon at site were roots would contact.

Dec. 09, 2011: One week mark. Two remaining seedlings doing well introduce to fan and now at 24 light cycle for 4 days now. First nutrients given 1.86 ml mixed (Organicare: Grow, 3-2-3) with 2 cups of bottled H2O. Oscillating fan to strengthen stems. Each plant got 1 cup of the mixture. T5 HO light, 8-12 inches from top of seedlings.
Dec. 10, 2011: Gave bothplants 2 oz of H2O each, 24 hour lights.
Dec. 11, 2011: Given 1.86 ml (Organicare: Grow, 3-2-3) mixed with 2 cups of bottled H2O. Each plant got 1 cup of the mixture. T5 HO light 4 inches from top of seedlings (lowered it by 4-6 inches.) 19/5 hours of light/dark.
Dec. 13, 2011: Plants look good, 19/5 hrs. light/dark. Sprayed leaves with mist of bottled H2O.
Dec. 13, 2011: Given 1.86 ml (Organicare: Grow, 3-2-3) mixed with 2 cups of bottled H2O. Each plant got 1 cup of the mixture. T5 HO light 4 inches from top. Sprayed leaves with mist of bottled H2O. Average max high temp 75.4 degrees F, average high humidity, 57%, Average min. low temp 71.5 degrees F, average min. low humidity, 30%, P.H. Levels are 6.8. of light/dark. Pictures:



Dec. 15, 2011: Given 1.86 ml (Organicare: Grow, 3-2-3) mixed with 2 cups of bottled H2O. Each plant got 1 cup of the mixture. Also gave each plant ½ more H2O. T5 HO light 4 inches from top. Sprayed leaves with mist of bottled H2O. Average max high temp 73.3 degrees F, average high humidity, 53%, Average min. low temp 72.5 degrees F, average min. low humidity, 36%, P.H. Levels are 6.9. White Castle seems to be behind the White Rhino in general. The white Rhino stem is not as thick as the white castle. Light schedule 19/5 hours of light/dark.
Dec. 16, 2011: Two week mark.
Dec. 17, 2011: Need to increase fertilizer. 3.0 ml (Organicare: Grow, 3-2-3) mixed with 4 cups of bottled H2O. Each plant got 2 cups of the mixture. T5 HO light 4 inches from top. Sprayed leaves with mist of bottled H2O. Average max high temp 74.5 degrees F, average high humidity, 41%, Average min. low temp 72.7 degrees F, average min. low humidity, 38%, P.H. Levels are 6.8. White Rhino seems to be behind the white castle in general. Light 19/5 hours of light/dark. Pictures:


Dec. 19, 2011 Gave 3.0 ml (Organicare: Grow, 3-2-3) mixed with 4 cups of bottled H2O. Each plant got 2 cups of the mixture. T5 HO light 4 inches from top. Sprayed leaves with mist of bottled H2O. Light 19/5 hours of light/dark.
Gave fertilizer yesterday so will replant and add soiltabs at bottom near the roots in new container for the rest of vegetation.
Dec. 21, 2011 Notice spots on White Rhino they are brown and on older leaves. Researched what it might be and came to the conclusion that it is a magnesium deficiency. The remedy I hope is mixed 1 tablespoon Epsom salts/gallon of water and use to water plants, since I had already watered them recently I decided to foliar mist them and mixed .75 teaspoon Epsom salt with 1 quart of distilled H2O. I sprayed the underside of the leaves and the top leaves on both plants even though the White Castle seems to be fine. I checked PH and it showed 7.0 and I over watered the White Rhino. Do not known how to get PH lower will research and find answers.
Dec. 22, 2011 There is an improvement with the White Rhino, it is spunky today and looks stronger, spots are still present but may take weeks to rectify the magnesium deficiency. White Castle is stinky and growing much better it seems it likes more nutes than the White Rhino and a higher PH.
TRANSPLANTED TODAY, STEPS, NUTES, SOIL AND SUPLEMENTS I USED:
SOIL- SEEDLING SOIL
NUTES-SOIL TAB
SUPPLEMENTS- 1 TABLESPOON OF MYKOS MYCORRHIZAL INNOCULANTS FOR EACH PLANT
½ TABLESPPON OF MYKOS NITROGEN FIXING MICROBES FOR EACH PLANT
3 ml SEA KELP
3 ml MOLASSES
EPSOM SALT MIXED WITH H2O FOR FOILAR SPRAY
2 QUART CONTAINERS
DISTILLED H2O
STEPS: Moisten soil with distilled H2O, poured 2 cups of distilled H2O and mixed in 3 ml of seaweed extract, 3 ml of molasses. Gave each container that was filled with moisten soil ½ cup of sea kelp and molasses mix. Placed 1 SOILTAB 1 ½ inches below soil line, covered with soil, placed 1 TABLESPOON of MYCORRIHIZAL on top of soil. I then removed plants from smaller container and sprayed roots with the Epson Salt mixture, and dusted roots with ½ the amount of NITROGEN FIXING MICROBES the remainder I scattered on the soil and placed the root ball on top of the soil, I then filled in the remaining soil around the plant and used the remaining 1 cup of the Molasses and Sea Kelp mixture (1/2 cup for each plant.) Sprayed the top soil and the plants lightly with the Epsom Salt Mix and placed under T5HO lights. Tested soils moisture=Wet and PH=7.0.



Have been on lots of sites and not sure what I am doing wrong. I really am trying not to over due it with growing but I think I am on the edge. Need your help and expertise to let me know what is my nest step. They are both much smaller than other plants for the age. Have I stunted them, or my soil mix is bad, what can I do?

mannnnn ive run white rhino clones many times this is my first attempt to flower them. check my link out

https://www.rollitup.org/indoor-growing/497540-white-rhino-veg-problem.html

transplant into bigger pots, gently break up the root mass just a bit to get the roots growing.some times after you do that its best not water with fertilizer so the roots will stretch out looking for nutrients but it can cause slight yellowing. use cal-mag plus, not epsom salt because you need the calcium to absorb magnesium. if you spray your plants under a light without drying them the water spots can cause a burn those spots will turn brown. leaves will bend a twist or do what is called cupping if they are dry this is how they conserve water.

molasses and mycorrihizal fugi are good as long as you are using organics. if you use fertilizer salts and epsom salts you kill the microbs in the soil I wouldnt use that stuff until the final transplant personally.

I see that you have clones and may be almost the same size as mine. How old are the clones, and what is your soil, feeding, and amount of light? I like to see more of your growing process since wht rhino's may be a bit finicky.

Your plants are looking good. Don't love them to death. Also liked your journal. Serious detail.

ismokealotofpot, thanks it is all a bit over whelming, I am trying to understand the supplements and nutes. I am going to transplant into a final 3 gallon container using a mix of Fox Farm Happy Frog and Fox Farm Ocean not sure what to add when the ferts in the mix are used up. Also now I am really confused as to adding supplements and extra nutes. I am a noob so I want to keep it simple and on a budget. I have earth worm castings, perlite, dolomite lime (pellets), seaweed extract, horticulture molasses, organiccare grow 3-2-3 (it must be old since it does not match any feeding schedule), organicare bloom 0.1-0.1-0.1, Vermiculite, and flowertab (from nirvana). Do I use any of these products? Do I wait to use them when I am more experienced?