1st 200w cfl grow, off to a bad start

got these 2 plants, ones a skunk 47 (right) the other is a purple trainwreck (left). the PT isnt looking so bad to me its just the skunk47 on the right is a bit yellow with stuff on the sides of the leaves. they were started 2 weeks ago under 4 cfl's before i upgraded to a 200w. their in john innes potting soil with perlite
help appreciated

What are your temps? and that soil looks to be too hot for those lil girls

|<roni>| said:

got these 2 plants, ones a skunk 47 (right) the other is a purple trainwreck (left). the PT isnt looking so bad to me its just the skunk47 on the right is a bit yellow with stuff on the sides of the leaves. they were started 2 weeks ago under 4 cfl's before i upgraded to a 200w. their in john innes potting soil with perlite
help appreciated
View attachment 2941622

Click to expand...

Hiya |<roni>| does look a little on the yellow side.. How often you Feeding/Watering them. also what kind of Grow Environment are we looking at? is it a Large Cupboard/Closet or a small Cabinet Grow? How far away from the Ladies tops is your CFL? They don't give off a lot of Heat..BUT they do get a little warm and seedlings need a bit more space IMO for first week or so. Try putting your hand at the same level as the tops of plants and if your hand starts to get warm after a bit then ya ladies are feeling this Heat too...are you using any kinda Cooling or Fans...

briccksquad said:

What are your temps? and that soil looks to be too hot for those lil girls

Click to expand...

I'm not sure about John Innes, found a lot different opinions about it..some good,some not so good..I mean you find this on all sorts of compost mixes ranging from the Dirt cheap(Nasty) up to the mide price sort of range I think?? I do think that some compost mixes are just Too Hot for certain strains and basically you at the mercy of the manufacture and what ratio of feed and other shit they put into the product..some peeps give the Pot of compost a good soaking once,maybe twice before they are going to use it so that some of the included Nutrients are released and the mix is not so Hot.

I Recycle(ROLS) all my Compost / Soil / Perlite / Clay Pebbles...wanted to go this way and I Feed with BioBizz...got fed up taking chances with Dodgy Cheap & Nasty BnQ and Family Bargains, wilkos brands etc...

Peace

Oh nearly forgot found what I think is some good Info on JI -

lkdj2003 - 29-10-08
http://www.thctalk.com

John Innes Composts Explained!

John Innes is not a manufacturer of compost, they are a range of composts developed at the John Innes Institute, named after John Innes, a nineteenth century property and land dealer in the City of London. On his death in 1904 he bequeathed his fortune and estate to the improvement of horticulture by experiments and research. The result was the establishment of the John Innes Horticultural Research Institute initially at Merton in Surrey, but now located at Norwich.

The essence of these composts from today's point of view is that they are based on loam. There are several formulae, depending on the use of the compost: JI Seed Compost is for sowing seeds; JI Cutting Compost is for rooting cuttings; JI No 1 Potting Compost is for pricking out young plants; JI No 2 Potting Compost is for potting on; JI No 3 Potting Compost is for established plants and shrubs; and JI Ericaceous Compost is for plants which cannot tolerate lime.

The Ingredients The function of each of the ingredients in John Innes is briefly as follows:-

Loam
Loam is the most important ingredient in the compost as it provides the main "body" of the compost. It also forms the base of plant nutrition by supplying clay, which has a cation and anion exchange capacity, that is, it absorbs and releases plant nutrients as required. Loam also contains essential micro-elements and some organic matter which provides a slow release of nitrogen to the plant.

Peat
Sphagnum Moss Peat in the John Innes Compost increases the total porosity and improves both the aeration and the water-retaining capacity. Peat decomposes slowly into humus.

Sand
The coarse sand or grit is used as a physical conditioner to allow excess water to drain from the compost and thus prevent water-logging. It also helps to provide stability for larger plants. Fertiliser

The compound fertiliser in John Innes Compost provides a wide spectrum of plant nutrients needed for balanced growth, including :-

• NITROGEN - for top growth
• PHOSPHATES - for root growth
• POTASH - for flowering and fruiting
• TRACE ELEMENTS - for optimal growth, colour and (where appropriate) flavour

Nutrients are typically sufficient for 1-2 months of growing, after which time additional proprietary feed should be given.

The mixes All ingredients of the main constituents are by volume.

JOHN INNES SEED COMPOST:
The traditional mix for sowing almost any type of seed, with sufficient nutrient for early development. May also be used for rooting soft cuttings.
2 sterilised Loam
1 Peat
1 Sand
The loam and peat is put through in 9mm (3/8 in) sieve.
For each cubic metre of mix, add
0.6kg ground limestone
1.2kg superphosphate

JOHN INNES CUTTING COMPOST:
1 Loam
2 Peat
1 Sand

No added fertiliser

JOHN INNES POTTING COMPOST No.1: for pricking out or potting-up young seedlings or rooted cuttings. This composts has a carefully balanced nutrient content to suit most young plants.
7 Loam
3 Peat
2 Sand
For each cubic metre of mix, add
0.6kg ground limestone
1.2kg hoof and horn meal
1.2kg superphosphate
0.6kg potassium sulphate

JOHN INNES POTTING COMPOST No.2
for general potting of most house plants and vegetable plants into medium size pots or boxes. Contains double the amount of nutrient in JI No 1 to suit established plants.
7 Loam
3 Peat
2 Sand
each cubic metre of mix, add 0.6kg ground limestone
2.4kg hoof and horn meal
2.4kg superphosphate
1.2kg potassium sulphate


JOHN INNES POTTING COMPOST No.3 a richer mixture for final re-potting of gross feeding vegetable plants and for mature foliage plants and shrubs in interior planters or outdoor containers.
7 Loam
3 Peat
2 Sand
each cubic metre of mix, add 0.6kg ground limestone
3.6kg hoof and horn meal
3.6kg superphosphate
1.8kg potassium sulphate

JOHN INNES ERICACEOUS COMPOST:
2 Loam
1 Peat
1 Sand
To each cubic metre of mix, add
0.6kg flowers of sulphur
1.2kg superphosphate



Peace

Looks like nute burn to me. What soil are you using? If you aren't feeding your seedlings nutes yet, there may be some in the soil that are released when you water your plants.

Also, they look a little stretchy. Move the bulb(s) to within 2 inches from the tops of the seedlings.

thanks for all responses

briccksquad said:

What are your temps? and that soil looks to be too hot for those lil girls

Click to expand...

not sure on the temps, need to get a thermometer for in there

SunnyJim Looks like nute burn to me. What soil are you using? If you aren't feeding your seedlings nutes yet, there may be some in the soil that are released when you water your plants. Also, they look a little stretchy. Move the bulb(s) to within 2 inches from the tops of the seedlings.

Click to expand...

Im using john innes, no nutes yet just a splash of water around the middle every day, soil is getting dry faster than i've ever seen using small cfls in the past. the purple trainwreck is a little stretched, so i moved the bulb lower, hopefully it wasnt too low burning them, i've raised it a bit now

cc2012 Hiya |<roni>| does look a little on the yellow side.. How often you Feeding/Watering them. also what kind of Grow Environment are we looking at? is it a Large Cupboard/Closet or a small Cabinet Grow? How far away from the Ladies tops is your CFL? They don't give off a lot of Heat..BUT they do get a little warm and seedlings need a bit more space IMO for first week or so. Try putting your hand at the same level as the tops of plants and if your hand starts to get warm after a bit then ya ladies are feeling this Heat too...are you using any kinda Cooling or Fans...

Click to expand...

hi, i feed them a splash of water every day, i just pour a bit in the middle. and its a wardrobe, around 4ft high n 3ft wide. the last week the bulbs been 3 inches from them and its a 200w cfl. I've raised it a bit now to give more space. I use small pc fans, an intake, out take with homemade carbon filter attached with extra fan inside and one circulating.

cheers

|<roni>| said:

thanks for all responses


not sure on the temps, need to get a thermometer for in there



Im using john innes, no nutes yet just a splash of water around the middle every day, soil is getting dry faster than i've ever seen using small cfls in the past. the purple trainwreck is a little stretched, so i moved the bulb lower, hopefully it wasnt too low burning them, i've raised it a bit now





hi, i feed them a splash of water every day, i just pour a bit in the middle. and its a wardrobe, around 4ft high n 3ft wide. the last week the bulbs been 3 inches from them and its a 200w cfl. I've raised it a bit now to give more space. I use small pc fans, an intake, out take with homemade carbon filter attached with extra fan inside and one circulating.

cheers

Click to expand...

I don't have a lot of experience, but with the seedlings that I have successfully got to grow, I didn't "pour" any water for the first couple weeks. I used a spray bottle and slightly misted the top of the soil a couple times a day. I don't start pouring water on em until they get a few inches tall. That's just my method, whether it's considered right or wrong, I have no clue, but it's worked so far for me. Oh yea, also, when I do start to pour water, usually for the first week, I pour real easy and start towards the outside of the pot and work my way in. My way of thinking, which again, may be wrong, is that if I make it a little wetter away from the roots, they will stretch and reach for the wetter soil, which in turn pushes root development, which in turn pushes growth. That may be completely wrong and all bullshit, and it may only be working because I'm lucky, or for some other reason, but it does work. One thing for sure, that I do know is right, is that you can eff em up if you overwater, especially at the seedling stage. Good Luck!

Thanks to everyone who responded. 4 months later here she is, still small and petty but survived.
i took it out of the john innes soil, shook it till it was just the tiny seedling and the few frail burnt roots, then planted in bio biz soil and she recovered rapidly. NEVER USE JOHN INNES OR ANY CHEAP SOIL is what i've learnt, grow soil isnt expensive if theres a hydro store near by.