100w DIY Build and Tips

DrShiny

Member
So here is my build.

I'm using this LED:
http://www.amazon.com/LOHAS®-White-Power-Energy-Saving/dp/B00D1GT7WW/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1454996121&sr=8-4&keywords=led+cob

This Power supply:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WM30O9K?psc=1

and this CC boost converter:
http://www.amazon.com/DROK-Transformer-Adjustable-Controller-Stablilizer/dp/B00C498MGY/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1454996318&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=boost+converter&psc=1

I'm using a cooler-master CPU cooler for it.

My notes about the parts and build so far...

I'm running the light at 80 watts. 35v @ 2.25A
This is partially because it conserves the life on these cheap chips considerably, but also partially because the power supply wants to melt above that. At this level I had to attach a fan to the outside and its still gets a bit hot.
NOTE: The stupid long, like bajillions of hours rated life of these LED's is only when driving them at around 75%
Running these COB's at 100w is a terribad idea. With the cleanest lab power supply, its not going to last a month of continuous use at 100w, and its going to be unreasonably hard to cool. There are also severe diminishing returns driving them above 90w anyway. I don't have a meter, but I can't perceive a difference between 90 and 100w in brightness. There is a pretty considerable difference between 75 and 80 watts though. Also, If you want to get anywhere above 80w, you are going to have the raise the voltage considerably. You would need to drive it at around 40 volts to get 100w. And its just gonna burn anyway. Its a $10.00 part, you get what you pay for.

I would highly recommend getting a 360w power supply instead of the one I got. One like this is only like 5 bucks more and totally worth the extra overhead. If you can run it without getting warm it is best. These are cheap knockoff Chinese crap parts, always get loooooots of overhead. The 600w Boost converter gets hot @80w, but the 150w boost popped in under 20 min on a 20w led. The 600 should be sufficient for this light though. If you are driving closer to 150w you might wanna strap a fan onto the heatsink. Don't even think about trying for 300w. You will fry it crispy.

Again, I know its tempting to go for the cheapest rated parts you need, but this shit is a firetrap. Give yourself some peace of mind and just spring 5 extra bucks for the beefier parts. I will be replacing this shit power supply soon. I'm going to use it for a 20w Led I have lying around as side fill.

I also bought the 44mm lens, which I like in my setup as my growspace is tall and narrow. (2 x 2 x 5 tall)
If you have more area, you may want to leave the lens off, or the beam will be too tight to hit your whole space. The lens also focuses the light to the point that shadows are pretty severe, and there isn't much diffraction for the light to bounce to the leaves toward the bottom. I'm thinking of taking it off actually but i'll leave it for now.

The plant seems to like it much better than the 6 23watt cfl bulbs it was under before. New growth is looking vigorous.20160208_225100.jpg 20160208_225110.jpg 20160208_225121.jpg 20160208_234110.jpg
 

DrShiny

Member
Thanks!
We'll see how it works out.

I came across this:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007K2H0GI/ref=s9_hps_bw_g147_i1

This is about the highest quality part you can buy. If you go with this meanwell, you are paying double. ($44.00) but you could also probably drive 2 or 3 LED's at 80 watts.
Couple that with the immensely better construction, and warranty of the legit part. Its a clear better choice. The Chinese knockoffs struggle to produce half of their rated power.

Soon as I have a few extra dollars to spend I'm going to buy this power supply.

I plan on maxing out the lighting in my area running 2 x 100w warm white leds on flower side, and 3 x 50w cool white Led's on the other.
I plan to purchase 2 of these units (one for each side)

Im going with the 50 watt on flower side because the area is slightly longer. (2 x 3) and I will have a hydroponic cloner in part of it. I'm going for a more even intensity on lighting
 
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DrShiny

Member
I'm quickly finding that i would have been MUCH better off going with 2 chips spaced apart a little for better better penetration, the point source and highly directional nature of the cobs make it so that very little light diffuses to the leaves under any shade.
 
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