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Is this low-ryder or one of the dwarf strains?

I'm coming around to your line of thinking but I still dont fully know why black is better yet! http://www.thenakedscientists.com/HTML/questions/question/3136/ http://hyperphysics.phy-astr.gsu.edu/hbase/thermo/absrad.html

I'm pretty sure they will cool at the same rate, next time I see a black and a white heat sink ill buy them and do the test, it should make a good you tube video

So if I have one anodized black heatsink and one white one, both the same size and i heat them both equally with say a soldering iron (not with light) and you are saying that the black one will heat up and cool down quicker, do you think its measurable with like a red laser temp meter?

When light hits something thats black I agree it heats up faster than something thats white, this is radiation, what we are dealing with is convection, the cooling occurs when the air moves over the heatsink, the heatsink does heat the air pushing it up, but the light hitting the heatsink is not...

Sounds plausible but I'm dubious

I understand anodizing is a great way to stop aluminum from corroding, but is there any reason why black anodizing is chosen for heatsink's as apposed to any other color like white? Is it to hide the dirt more?

Is there any benefit to keeping the ballasts in the grow space?

I agree each one I'm measuring is about 20c over ambient. I guess as they are like 90% efficient and together they are puling 500w the heat must be about 50w. Is that right? Like a big aquarium heater on full blast or a bit less than the flame from a candle

Does the cable length from the driver to the board matter in any way? Like is it possibly to move the LED drivers out of the grow area by having a long cable?

No Idea, they were the equivalent of 94 USD each here though, I bet he buys in bulk or much more direct then I can.

The cost of CLU058 is more than 50% cheaper on northerngrowlights.com than I can buy it from the local market here. Incredible value!

@ Victor6634 Awesome view you have there!

Is the reason for not getting a 1000W HPS that close due mainly to heat? and not so much due to the amount of light, I'm aware there is a light/heat balance. Is this also why we see air cooled hoods trying to remove as much of the hot air as possible? And why we try to keep the canopy below 80F...

So my understanding is that PPFD is a measurement taken at one single point, just like you would from a par meter positioned at the top of the canopy, so previously instead of being lazy and typing umol to be perfectly correct should write μmol/m2/s. Is this how I got things confused?

So whats the deal with the 1000W HPS fixtures that kick out over 2000 umol are they actually stunting the plants growth as opposed to helping it?

I see where you are going now. I reference icmag below stated the University of Mississippi who recorded optimal growth at 1500 umol At 30 °C, granted they didn't state if the 1500 umol was given for 12 hours. https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=127379 Here are my umol readings for a...

@CobKits help me understand why 4ft away is the right intensity? Remember a sunny day mid summer I measured at 1700 umol and the temp at 2ft was only 10 degrees over ambient

I need to get some red's ordered this week, should I stick with the cree XP-E or look at Osram? Is there anyone else with good efficiency I really should look at? How many reds should I swap out? All opinions welcome!

The drivers I'm using is 2x Mean Well HLG-240H-36A's and heres the dials labeled "Vo ADJ" and "Io ADJ"