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FmSwayze most of the hashplant fathered will be fast and potent, around 60 days. That Lazy Lightning and Hp D both get cut down by 63 days here. That Hp D, is mothballs and sweaty clothes. Its a slow ride on air ballon into orbit, but it keeps you in orbit for a long time.. That Lazy Lightning...

My Lazy Lightning I have had for years and put on here before. Still the best high I have ever had.

My new Hp D plant.

yea, its cooler from water evaporating. Water changing from fluid to vapor and vice versa can release or absorb alot of heat. Example of the opposite is for frost protection fruit trees will get sprayed with water, its the water constantly freezing that is giving off heat.

Duhh, yes it should wick up 8 inches. Thats the same height, or close to it ,above the reservoir that batos are. You can use small cups of perlite with hole on side to root cuttings in also, or start seed in if you want to go straight perlite.

Jack's RO one part with sulfuric as your pH down is almost identical to using 3-2-1. Just mix RO to around 1.3 EC if you want the equivalent to 3-2-1 in a one part. 1.0-1.2 EC will be enough though. It works great thru veg and flwer. If you dont like doing that get maxibloom for flower.

Hp D

Just sexed a pack of BT, some short/wide with leaf that doesnt look anything like ghash and tall/upright vigorous ones with the ghash leaf shape. Two of the tall ones are female and one of the shorty looking ones but its more intermediate between short and tall than the other shortys.

Just use coco from beginning, get two 2 gallon max size container if you want to fertigate few times a day. You will use few gallons of nutrient solution per day so size your rez according to how often you want to fill the rez. Hopefully you can drain to waste easily.

Your daylength may not be long enough yet, try to extend the daylength for awhile.

Perlite in a bato will wick the nutrient solution up. Two lines per bato is they way they usually go in commercial vegetable production but thats probably two in case one line malfunctions. I used one line to the bato with a T and it worked fine for me for a long time.

If its possible to use air exchange instead I would recommend that. Depends on your climate but may be easier to maintain temp/vpd and less equipment to rely on.

there isnt anything wrong with those plants.

Now days there is pages written on here and every other forum about the "terps" of a plant without one word about the high. If you smoke one of the plants they are talking about you quickly see why, it wont get you high! The old stuff was selected for by the high first and foremost, they way it...

Yes, you are adding H+ but that is the point. The type of fertilizer you give the plant will cause the plant to kick off either H+ or OH- which will change the pH over time along with the alkalinity in your water. Adding H+ to adjust your nutrient solution is adjusting both the alkalinty of you...

Yea ,The purple part is why I never tried PU. I got sweaty unicorn as a freebe Pirate sweat x pu3, will report back.

Thick foam board laid on top of the floor with the thin sheet of ply wood on top of the foam board works good, thats for mild climate if you are in alaska or something disregard. Depends on your climate but if you can use air exchange instead of generating CO2 do it.

If you are using a pot/dimmer check it. I know those red and black ones will cause that eventually. I replace them often. Easy way to check is take it off and see if the flicker stops.

Yea its real dense, but thats fine you can thin out the branches to a nice even canopy and not have to defoliate. Your height looks good, you may have the light jacked up to the top by the end of the stretch but you should be fine. Plants look healthy.

I would be taking out branches not leafs out of that canopy. You could cut out all of those secondary branches off the main branches now and not stress them.