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looks a little too thinned out. For veg I usually don't thin much if at all as each leaf is part of the photosynthetic engine, for flower I thin the plant where it won't have time to make a substantial flower.

The floor isn't as important as photosynthesis happens at the top side of the leaf

Don't dim your bulb, raise and lower the height of your fixture. You want to keep lots of light on your plant to try and keep it short and squat. Dimming/less light often leads to stretching and more bulb changes. Put it 4ft away from top of small plants. Herballuvmonkey is right when they get...

How many inches is the mh from the canopy?

There's no photo attached to the post, makes it hard for us to help

Thanks for the hint that this needs to be explained. I'll do my best... This might help as not all lumens are created equal... The unit we should be measuring light with is PPFD, an acronym for photosynthetic photon flux density. The ideal PPFD depends on stage and quality of light: With HPS...

Make sure you veg for a long time if you want 6+ oz/plant and get the metal halide bulb. Once you get a bushy squat plant, when you flip to flower you should be able to push the weight up.

If it's not new, make sure to check the output/run time. They degrade heavily ~2 years.

I've done some growing with CMH & plasma (gavita/rocket/iunu, still need to get a chameleon). The CMH originated from lighting malls and store fronts in an attempt to fool the human eye that it's similar to sunlight. It does something similar for plants. You can get some good results; the only...

Sworth is right. If you are going to get serious with it, spend the extra money on a good tent that won't rip after one cycle.

Not bad for 450w; They've come a long way. 450 and 660nm seems pretty standard though which makes me think there wasn't much research put into it. IP 65 shows they clearly know how to build a solid fixture for an affordable price and that alone is key considering a lot of the bad LED fixtures...

The ideal PPFD depends on stage and quality of light: With HPS I tell people 1000 mmol / square meter With full spectrum I tell people 700-800 mmol / square meter Why the difference? Well, the HPS dominant green and yellow wavelengths (~500~600nm) of light travel further but are far less...

I focus my research on lighting (one of the most important aspects of a grow) but I've learned the UVB wavelength can kill spider mites

Anyone try the chameleon or iunu? would love to hear a side by side by side comparison https://plasmagrowlighting.com/chameleon-420-plasma-grow-lighting/ http://www.iunu.com/

I have never been a true side by side that an inda gro outperforms a chameleon 500w... Did your buddy try LED (not the cheap crap) or Plasma before choosing induction?

After seeing the CnC and Kimbo Kush, they're still looking like strong genetics. The Kimbo had that frosty F2 flare that almost looked fake. Never got the yield info from the grower as to whether it put weight but seeing it first hand makes me believe in the KK

Have you used them? Maybe they've done a big overhaul since beginning of last year; I tried the sylvania older version from one of their reps and they clearly had no idea how to build a fixture catered towards horticultural applications.

Agreed. Simply put, the only way to truly compare is to keep all variables constant (including clones not seeds) in a side by side and have different lights. I've only seen this amount of data logging and attention to detail in university testing. I hope we can all get there eventually.

Yes, to what HockeyBeard said and as for reliable diode companies, I have had the best luck with CREE

You ever find any of that proof you were looking for, either LED or Plasma?