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Yup

I remember seeing a passive wicking system on here before. It seemed to work well.

The 3 part ferts do fine in peat mixes. I've grown some 12 foot monsters in 15 gallon bags with Sunshine/Berger and Jacks 321.

This thread is probably for members with more than a couple grey hairs. Some of the cartoons that where on your favorite channel but will never see that light of day on public TV again. I remember having the book and sing along album as a kid for this.

If the nutes are in full solution they would move with the water. Evaporation could be a factor with a large thin mat, making the EC higher than the rez.

I like it! I would think F&D would be very similar to DTW in coco. Only difference is the small amount of excess dry salts are dissolved back into the rez. Normal rez changes would keep EC at proper level

I've always grown giving my plants an almost full dryback, numerous times to a slight wilt. That never damaged the plants. From my experience MJ likes a very light mix with frequent dry cycles. How is a media going to supply the high oxygen dry cycle if it's always at full capacity of water...

So, I just saw the bill for the mother in laws pool supplies and almost shat myself. Seems they employ the well know tactic of repackaging cheap shit with fancy labels then adding a huge tax. Bioguard is the fucking worst. Most of the salt mixers here can probably easily spot the common...

Mulching the top will help a little as well.

The mix I've been running for the last few years start to finish has been 120-40-180 NPK 90Ca 50Mg 3Fe. I ran 1/4 lines to all the summer crops. The only real issue was some N clawing on the tomatoes. Once in full fruit I bet they like a bit lower N.

I don't think that will harm the plant. The 4:2: I believe is mostly aimed to keep Calcium in check, since it's very antagonistic.

I remember reading a paper by UC Berkley that recommended K:Ca:Mg be supplied at a rate of 4:2:1 So, you should be able to drop your CalMag to 90ppm:45ppm Sulphur is non-antagonistic and anything over 50ppm is fine.

I got some Blue Cheese and Gorilla Glue clones from a neighbor. The GG is looking like a weak pheno, so I will reclone some of the cheese and run 12 of those.

Nerd Stuffs... It looks like all the Nitrogen is in part A. They list part A at 9.8lb per gallon at 3% Nitrogen 4,445g per 3785mL Specific Gravity is 1.17g per mL Each mL will have 35mg of Nitrogen PPM is mg/L So....3.5mL part A per Liter will give you 122PPM nitrogen

Do you have pics the NPK of the A+B. DutchPro is hiding them like streetwalkers hide diseases.

If you have a link to the product, any one of the muttonheads that frequent this place can calculate it.

Almost all strains due fine with 120-140ppm N. That's usually attained at a much lower EC than 1.8

I've messed up enough grows to know that N-Tox is pretty damaging to plants. Once the leaves get the claw they are FFL (Fucked for Life). They will never recover to a healthy condition and will turn brown/yellow early even if nutrient situation is remedied.

I just popped this year's clones into solo cups.

If you want a little more convenience, you can make a stock solution. Say you dissolve 500g in a liter and you then need 10liters of solution with 6g/L. Pour out 120mL stock solution.