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sorry, i musta screwed up. "Foliar applications of phosphorus therefore should be avoided when inoculating soil with mycorrhizae." Ref. http://mining.state.co.us/TechnicalBulletins/MycorrhizaAndSoilPhosphorusLevels.pdf

definitely compost old rootballs as they will be a rich source of microbes, and then you get to use your dirt over and over. dont compost any rootballs that have disease or bugs. all my trimmings get composted.

that Mono-potassium Phosphate has an NPK of 0-52-34. thats gonna FRY any mycorrhiza in sight. here is some good info on Phosphorus. "Very high and very low phosphorus levels may reduce mycorrhizal infection/colonization (Koide, 1991). It is well established that: Mycorrhiza and soil phosphorus...

i mash them in a cup with a fork, there normally pretty old and soft. Vapekush, unless your banana's are organic, throw away the peels. if they are organic banana's, go for it. IMO most of the goodness is in the fruit, because it contains potassium and sugar.

mix it a few extra times, it would suck to find a "hotspot" and burn a sensitive clone/seedling.

yes, definetly mix it into your current mix, it does the same thing as pearlite, but holds SLIGHTLY more water. when you squish the chunks it squeezes like a sponge.

although it may need watering more often, i bet your roots thank you for using a light and fluffy mix. next time, try coco croutons, they hold water and air kinda like little sponges.

and if you feel, some Coco chips for even better drainage/structure.

as far as im concerned, that 3 pack is ridiculous. its all really high in Phosphorus, but is thoroughly lacking Potassium. according to Mel Frank cannabis needs basically the opposite of that. a good bloom NPK ratio is 1-1-2 (remember, thats ratio, not %) if you did use those Fox farms solubles...

adding compost tea would definitely speed up the decomposition/inoculation phase, just make sure your containers have adequate drainage. quite a few growers use uncooked super soil. another way to speed up the cooking phase is to turn/stir your soil more often. as far as i know there is no...

some good ass Cheese! but seriously.... CHEESE. it had big orange hairy cola's and the smell was of bad meat or good cheese. i wish i knew the grower.

a layer of Diatomaceous Earth on top of soil will prevent most bugs from becoming a problem. its kinda hard to find, most hydro shops have it though and its always available on the internets.

grapes - Red Flame raspberries - Redwing|Heritage blackberries - Apache kiwi - Red princess these things all like to be grown on a trellis of some sort, so i would build some 2'x8' garden plots for them. i think your reservoir would become too warm in a greenhouse so i wouldnt...

seedlings should be planted in a sterile planting mix (Pro-Mix or #4) then transplanted into your compost amended soil. personally all old rootballs (and their dirt) go into my compost and it works great. when you compost used soil (FFOF for example) it shouldnt have much nutrient value left...

give that friend a fucking HUG when you see them next :weed::hump: thats gonna be hard on the snips!!

where is HOBBES! he got 5 Grams Per Watt with one 600w light.

How to MRS a plant OK guys just in case you are new or have absolutely no clue what im talking about im gonna toss this one out there for the people in the cheap seats... you keep hearing me and JumboSwisher talking about MRSing a plant and how it increases yield.. here is the basics...the only...

what the OP (BornGreen1987) is talking about is Multiple Rooting Sites (MRS for short) the Google found this thread for me, it has pictures and a better description. https://www.rollitup.org/advanced-marijuana-cultivation/359866-conjoined-air-root-cloning-multiple.html it is the act of cutting...

i use 3 Pallets in a "U" shape, works great, and with 2 more pallets you can build a double U. |_|_| ^^ that shape exactly. one side is open to make turning easier.