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If the miracle grow DOESN'T have time released fertilizer in it, Stick to your fertilizer regimen but switch to bloom nutes. Don't wait a month. If you were ferting once a week, stick with that. If the miricle grow soil DOES have fertilizer in it, wait a few weeks as suggested. You won't see...

Had tons of branches snap just from bud weight and they finished fine. I have even had them snap where they attach to the main branch and just a piece of skin was holding them on. I started using tomato cages to keep them upright.

Hard to water the smart pots. It sometimes just runs off through the side instead of down into the soil. Especially late in flower when the dirt is full of roots. These are my new favorite pots. Warrior Pots! Best of both worlds. Easy to clean. The root balls just fall out of them with no...

I agree. There are so many unknowns that go on inside your soil (i.e microbial activity) that using runoff to diagnose plant problems is , well, problematic in my view. I make sure the nutrients I pour in are PH'd correctly and don't worry about the rest.

Like anything the best teacher is experience. Try, see what happens , and try again.

I sort of chuckle when I read things that people do to their plants. Just do your best at providing the environment the plant wants and let her grow. Let the plant grow, don't grow the plant.

No. your leaves would be dark dark green.

If you like the foxfarm nutes. I suggest getting the tigerbloom, beastie bloom, cha ching, and open sesame for your flower production. They are meant to work in concert and formulated that way. Mixing and matching can be difficult to achieve good results. As for the carbs, The molasses does...

Which soil? If it is pro-mix or a sphagnum peat moss, that is actually a soilless mix and needs a different PH range. It does sound like a mag deficiency to me as well.

If you are going to use a soiless mix, you need a PH meter. Your nutrients should be PH'd to ~6.2. This is pretty important and if it is too high you will lock out your Phosphorus and your bud development will be reduced. You can see this in pic 10 with the dark blotch.

Water if the pot is light. Seedlings like it a tad moist. You can also take a 2 litre bottle and make a humidity dome for it. She looks dry to me.

Looks female to me. I can faintly see a pistol in pic 2. Need a closeup on those pods to be sure. Easy test to be sure. If little hairs stick out of the 'pods' then it's female. If it has a stem, it's male.

Does look like a burn to me. Can tell by how dark green your foliage is. At least too much N. Btw, you will have to look to new growth to know whether your changes worked. Leaves usually don't repair themselves.

Not at all. all those nutrients go to the top of the plant where the bulk of the photosynthesis is going on.

Many other growers strip the lower growth the first couple weeks into bud using a method called lollipopping. If you are running a perpetual system having to wait those extra weeks can jam up the works. Also you will find your tops are much nicer and easier to trim without all the popcorn buds...

After reading my notes the Magnesium makes more sense. The lower your ph the less it becomes available.

I didn't read anything about there being organic compost in that soil. "Soil Supreme is a unique blend of sphagnum peat, Fytocell foam and our very own OrganicGrowth Stimulant." Whatever their organic growth stimulant is I can't imagine it being compost. If your runnoff is that low than your...

You are giving her way too much water. A plant that size will only use about 100-200ml of water a day. Let her dry out for a good 4-5 days. Until you can lift the pot and it feels light. Also it looks a bit dark. Back off the nutrients a couple waterings.

It's all about letting the plant grow. Not growing the plant.

Vertical growth ceases about 21-24 days into flower, this is normal. They will focus on flower production until finished.