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What's the deal with CFL worshippers anyway? It's almost like CFLs are their religion. No matter how much empirical evidence you throw at them, they just don't want to accept that they're wrong. They can use acronyms like PAR and CRI to try and reinforce their argument all day long, but in...

I've been using mylar with a 600w HPS for years and never had a problem with hot spots. If you take your time and apply it correctly then you shouldn't have any problems.

You forgot 80-85 which is what I would have chosen. I went with 75-80 as my temps never get above 85.

My environment is fairly dry this time of year (30% RH) and I have absolutely no problem growing seedlings without a humidity dome. So, no I don't think it's necessary. I haven't used FFOF soil myself, but have heard the same. If you plan on using FFOF for your grow that's fine, just start...

Yeah, this idea that sun light is always better than anything man made is incorrect. Like tusseltussel mentioned, with the sun there are many factors which determine how many lumens the plant(s) receive. The number you most often hear is that the sun outputs approx. 10000 lumens per sq. foot...

I dont' mean to sound negative, but ditch the LED lights. Go with a couple of 23w CFLs. You'll get much better growth and the amount of heat they'll produce can be easily managed in a closet with a small fan. A lot of people choose LEDs in an effort to reduce heat but the reality is, most LED...

Well, you've got plenty of light there, so I would guess that it's just the strain. I'd take a wait-and-see approach. As long as they are green, healthy, and actively (although slowly) growing, they should be fine.

Merry, replace the incandescent bulbs with compact fluorescent lights. It'll only cost you about $10.00 and you'll save on electricity as a bonus! Place the CFLs about 2" from the plant and be sure to move them away as the plant grows. Your plant is exceptionally healthy considering you're...

First things first. Get them transplanted into bigger pots immediately. They are most definitely root bound, the nutes just added insult to injury. After you've transplanted, give them a good watering with PLAIN WATER and wait for them to dry out before the next watering. They should make a good...

What type and wattage of lighting are you using? How close are the lights to the seedlings? If they are equatorial sativas, then they are going to require a lot of light.

WOW! If I'm understanding this correctly, the red LEDs total 99 lumens and the blue LEDs total 19 lumens? If that's the case, I'm afraid you've wasted your money. Even a single 23w CFL will output around 1800 lumens. With all due respect, I don't see why people would waste their time or money...

Without getting to much into the math and science of light, I will try to explain to the best of my ability why CFLs aren't as effective as HIDs. First of all, HIDs are obviously more effecient than CFLs (Let's take 3 typical examples): 23w CFL = ~1800 initial lumens = 78.3 lumens per watt...

Res temperature is key here. You will continue to get pythium if your res temp is too warm. You should be around 65-68*f, or lower. The water should feel cool to touch, not tepid and definately not warm. I would sterilize everything, and find some effective way to consistantly keep the...

It sounds like you're using Sodium Hydroxide, also known as lye. Unfortunately, while it is effective at raising your pH, it will also raise the amount of sodium salts in your nute solution, possibly causing lockout. You should be using Potassium Hydroxide instead, as potassium can be used by...

Molasses + Hydro = Bad idea You are just encouraging bacterial growth in your res. This is why your pH is climbing. Eventually, it may cause root rot. For hydro, I would use nothing but a basic 2 or 3 part nute and add a little H202 once a week to keep everything sterile.

Blood Meal.

I paid $10.00 for a 1 liter bottle of phosphoric acid, and a little goes a long way. A couple of drops in your res is usually all that is needed to bring the PH down to disirable levels. I use nitric acid instead of phosphoric acid during vegetative growth but either one will do the job...

First of all, gravity feed isn't the best method. You aren't going to get the same flow rate or pressure (head) from that kind of setup as you would from a nice sized pump. If you ran a pump instead of a gravity feed system then you could get a 24hr timer with 15 min increments, $20.00 at...

I believe you, but that's not proof that organic is healthier than chemically grown food. That just prooves that eating a healthy, mostly raw food diet with lots of fruits and vegetables is good for you and is what the human body was evolved to eat. This is fairly obvious to everybody including...

TDS = Total dissolved solids/salts You will defnitely need a TDS meter when growing in hydro. I assume by your setup you're using the DWC method with the roots dangling just above the water line. How do the roots look? White and fuzzy or are they turning brown/slimey? If they are turning brown...