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I noticed a little bit of tip burn in that leaf in the second pic which would indicate too much fert. Overall though, your plants look healthy if not a bit stretched. If you've been using nutes lately, go a few waterings without and see how things progess.

Usually, leaves curling up like that are an indication of too much heat.

No, once leaves have turned yellow, there no going back. But if your plants are in fact, N deficient then you should add some veg nutes, that way any new growth will be green.

Organics + hydro = bad idea. Ditch the fox farms for GH 3 part. If you use only the 3 part with a dose of H2O2 from time to time, as long as you keep your res temp cool (65-68) then your res will smell like fresh water.

Well, you may consider it poor, but it's the way it's been done since agriculture began. I will concede that I have only grown organically once. I used Vic's super soil and it worked great (good healthy green growth, no burn, no deficiencies). So that may not be the "new" way of doing things...

The CFLs, by far. Let's take a look shall we: A typical 23w CFL will output ~1800 initial lumens: 1800/23 = 78 lumens per watt A typical 250w HPS will output ~29000 initial lumens: 29000/250 = 116 lumens per watt Clearly, a 250w HPS is 49% more efficient at producing light than 23w CFLs...

Just like in the U.S., the price varies from region to region. Where are you heading specifically?

It depends on what you mean by "better". Whether growing via organic or chemical, you're trying to achieve the same basic thing, and that is to provide the plant(s) with nutrients. So I wouldn't say one is better than the other, just a different method of achieving the same end result. Yes...

Mr. Duke, Melamine resin is a type of plastic, and in fact was once used to make cooking utensils and dishes. So, providing OChack made a good seal with the silicon caulk, it should stay leak proof!

Again, If you haven't already bought some, I wouldn't bother. But, to answer your question, the only ones I have any experience with are Monster Bloom by Grotek, and Kool Bloom by GH. They are equally as good IMO. Just make sure you go easy on the stuff and only use it after the stretch phase...

Sorry, but this statement is oxymoronic. There's no such thing as "low watts, high yield". You can have low watts, low yield, or high watts, high yield, that's it. Light intensity is the main source of energy for plants, so with all else being equal, light intensity has a linear relationship...

Glad I could help you out.

If you're going to go ahead with that setup (4 plants per sq. ft.), you'll need to "lollipop" your plants as they grow. You can search the forum for an explaination of that technique if you don't already know about it, but basically it's just the process of cutting off all the side shoots so...

As a followup, here's a post by Uncle Ben on the abuse of Phosphorus during flowering: The never ending abuse of Phosphorous to enhance flowering Contributed by: Uncle Ben A common mistake for growers when they reach the flowering stage is to start hitting the plants with a high P fert like...

Well, I wouldn't even call bloom boosters additives per se. They should more appropriately be called supplements as they just boost Phosphorus and Potash which are found in everyday fertilizers anyway. Bloom boosters are ok, but should be used sparingly and only in the later stages of...

I hear ya, and you're very welcome. You must keep in mind that the guy at the hydro store is there to make money. Don't get me wrong, I don't think they're all crooks or anything, just be weary and do some research before you buy. The short answer is, No, they aren't necessary. Enzymes can...

Hey, I know, no one wants to waste money but you'd be wasting a lot more if you left it the way it was and ended up killing your plants! Some people recommend molasses or products like carbo load during flowering to fatten buds, etc. Personally, I don't buy it, but I'd say it probably doesn't...

If you use the MH for veg you'll get slightly tighter node spacing as a result of more blue light in MH, however you'll get faster overall growth with the HPS. It's your call. Since you've already purchase the 400w MH bulb, go ahead and use it, but when it comes times to replace the bulb, just...

Being that it is only 70w, using an extension cord should be fine as long as it is grounded (has 3 prongs).

I'd say the Carbo Load is what's causing you problems. Basically, it's just sugar, and bacteria loves sugar. What you're probably smelling is bacteria. That's why I always recommend not using anything other than the basic micro/macro nutrients in hydro. Dump your rez, clean it with a solution...