It will cause you more problems than anything trying to get everything optimal. As long as it's thriving just let it do its thing. Autos don't like to much nutrients so start 1/4 recommended and build it up weekly until you see slight nutrient burn then back the nutrients off.
Yes even with seedlings. No bin the humidity dome. It's not needed. It seems like you've done a little too much homework. It's a plant. Germinate seed then put it directly into grow medium under a light. Don't over complicated stuff
I hate rock wool cubes. Even the ones that say are ph stable still drift. I'd do several soaks in PhD water squeeze slightly and ph test the water that comes out the cubes. I can guarantee the ph will have drifted.
To fill that tent you will need more light. Your plants will grow under any amount of light but your yield will suffer if you don't get enough penetration.
Re potting any auto is supposedly really bad idea BUT if your careful enough I can't see a problem. I would advise against doing it while in bloom though if I'm honest.
I've had seedlings do perfectly well under 600w hps light. Just start the light at 18 inches and move closer until the plant...
The pistils will brown off and retract back into the bud and more will replace them. Pistils constantly cycle. That's why it's not a good idea to judge your harvest time via pistils.
What week of flower are they?? They look very healthy to me.
You still have 3 weeks growth left at least. Don't use the grow times from the seed banks websites. They will certainly go a fair bit longer than they state. You will be surprised how much they will fatten up in the final push to be pollinated. I'd lower the nitrogen levels now and add some P.K...
Last 2 weeks is when you see the most growth and fattening up as they know there life is coming to and end so they give a final big push to be pollinated. Nice looking healthy plants. Continue with whatever your doing.
I've not bought the autopot system yet but In my dwc I use the vitalink hydro range. In my soil grow I use regular store bought soil and feed only PhD water for the 1st 4 - 5 weeks then I use the ionic bloom nutrients for the remainder of the grow. With nutrients REMEMBER that less is actually more.
I don't use a feed chart mate. I just start with low 1/4 strength nutrients the gradually increase them until I see any adverse effects or nutrient burn then I back them down slightly by removing some of the solution and adding plain tap water. I don't buy into all the ro water bolox. Tap water...
I found a bee in my grow tent last week. Only way it could have got in is via my air intake. I've fixed the problem by fitting a pair of tights/stoking over the front of it lol.
You only need one airpump to bubble the rez. Its just to keep oxygen in the water and to keep you nutrients mixed. 4 xl pots in a 5x5 would work great. Just control the growth using your light schedule. 4 pots I'd give 6 weeks veg time then flip to 12/12
2ml x how many litres you put in your rez so if it's 47l will mean 94 ml. Same goes for nutrients. I'd not put calMag in the rez though. If I seen any calMag problems I'd foliar feed them using 2 litre spray bottle PhD with 4 ml calMag in it.
I'm looking at the 4 pot XL model.
I'm looking at the same system.
Gravity fed so not pumps except for one to constantly bubble the solution.
I'd stick to just one single stain as you mix one solution in the header tank weekly and as we all know each strain like different ppm levels. The plants control the feeding via a float...
That's because hps are dual spectrum. They will do the entire grow. You try flowering with your t5 6500k and you will be disappointed with the results. For veg and getting as close as you can to the canopy t5 all the way