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Yeah, a couple holes should be fine to let air in.

I'm getting a good rate of growth now. This is four days of growth since the last post. I'm hoping I can flip in a couple more weeks. These are pretty bushy indica, so I'm not sure how much stretch I'll get. This is three weeks of veg. I'd like to keep the veg. phase down to around 5-6 weeks...

The SIPs modified Autopots are working pretty well. The organic grow is healthy and green. Now I'm just trying to get the net filled as much as possible.

Yes, I'm trying bokashi this grow on top of my compost just under my plastic cover. The mycelium mat formed in a day, so that's a good sign.

Yeah, you're right. The soil will settle a bit. You can tamp it gently once the plants are in. Then put a bit more soil in to make sure the crown of the rootball is level or slightly under the soil.

Not if you're going to do a compost and mulch layer. You'll need an inch or so for some compost/ worm castings to develop a humus layer.

Plants are settling in nicely. I dropped the SCROG net on. I lowered it to 7" over the pots this time. I want that screen really low. The mycelium mat formed in one day using the bokashi.

I would worry about a rope system because you would need to find the type of rope that would wick, but not deteriorate. And, the air gap won't stop the roots. They will find a way down there eventually. I believe the air gap is important for allowing oxygen to enter the system from below... this...

Yes, I think that gap looks pretty good. When you fill the bottom with sand make sure you water the sand with a watering can or hose as you fill in the sand. This will force the sand to flow down into the small gaps that you can't pack in with your fingers. That way you won't have air gaps or...

Yes, sand wicks well. The smaller the particles the better capillary action. But, wet sand will slide right through those perf pipe slits, so you need to wrap your pipes with a drain sleeve. Of course soil absorbs and holds water better than sand. So basically soil absorbs and wicks and sand...

So, I wasn't a big fan of running my exhaust fan on a timer. It was difficult to keep the temperature up with the COB fixture. When the fan would kick on for 15 minutes every hour then it would suck all the heat out and the temp. would drop to around 74F. So, I got one of these Bayite...

I just transplanted into the SIPs modified 6.6 gallon Autopots. Time to see how this works... and all organic.

Wow, big bed. You might want to try some 3 or 4 inch perforated irrigation pipe for the reservoir with the geotech fabric sock around it to keep dirt and roots out. It's the system similar to what bicit posted on the previous page. You can coil it up or place it in rows. This system works well...

Oh good, I thought for some reason it didn't work. Longer screws are an easy fix.

Does anybody have opinions on lenses or reflectors for the Vero 29 and the Vero SE? I use Angelina for my Cree CXB. I believe the Angelina don't work on the SE? But, I do like the idea of using the SE for the poke in wire connections. Otherwise, I would get the Molex for the 29s.

Yes, that's what I was looking at. So that's good to know those CCT bins are irrelevant.

Ah, there are some. Thanks JavaCo.

Vero 29 bin numbers... I noticed there are three bins... 2, 3 and 4. I was looking around for either 3000k or 2700k with the top bin 2 and it doesn't look like anybody has these in stock. Am I missing something? Why am I having such a hard time finding these in stock? By the way, I am looking...

Any idea where to get the 2700k higher voltage chips? I looked on all the usual websites and can't find these. I can find the 2700k 38v versions, but not the higher voltage.

Ah, okay. Thanks, that makes sense. I think that's the plan then.