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I wouldnt use it. Try spraying th plants with 3%h2o2, or if u can afford it, a small cold fogger with h2o2 would do the trick nicely. I have drenched plants with it on a number of occasions, it is harmless (@3%), and tasteless, probably my most used product in my garden lately, its in the res...

If u are sure they are weak plants or if u only have one grow room, just shitcan them. They may be good plants that just got shaded out tho. In that case (u need to have a veg room and a flower room for this) I would cut the lanky growth off by taking some clones. Then cut ithe plant almost...

Either your PH isnt 7 or u have a disease. I would find a second method to test ph. Check runoff PH, it should be between 6 and 7. Disease is alot more common than anyone on this forum thinks so it could be that. If I had to guess exactly what it is just by the info I have now I would say its a...

Its not dead til its dead. If the top shoot is still alive, it will be fine with time. The plant is smart enough to keep the most important top shoot on the plant alive in those situations by taking the water from fan leaves to feed it. The roots took the brunt of the damage tho so it will...

Yeah, but in order to grow more leaves, it needs shoots.

If it only has the cotlydons (the round leaves) and above that is only a stem, its over. Now, where the first true leaves meet the stem, a shoot will come out of there, so if u have that part of the stem u will be fine.

U just need to treat the medium with a product containing Bacillus Thuringiensis, its the active ingredient in mosquito dunks. Just add a dunk to the feed water and leave it in there, dont break it up too much and water as usual. Dont spray the plants with anything, the gnats attack roots, not...

Depends on what it is. Do u hav a pic? If its not spreading dont, but if it starts spreading, the plant may have gotten a disease or needs better nutrition. A lil stress isnt a long term effect, but any stress leaves the plant a sitting duck for disease to attack.

I use FloraNova Bloom (No Grow is ever used), Bloom for vegging and Bloom for blooming and distilled/ro water to top it off. No mg or ca probs as long as PH was solid and mature plants were fully fed with a ppm of 1400 (e.c. of 2) in the res. Its when u start feeding light u see deficiencies...

Cool. glad ur on the right track!!:clap: Just wanted to make sure u werent some stupid newb forgetting the Micro in the three part. I thought it would be PH related or a possible disease, but the necrosis is too uniform to be a disease so the PH seemsed most logical.

He did u a favor. I feed cal mag the last three or four weeks of flower, the calcium helps strengthen trichomes, thats why u hear people using molasses at the end of flower, all molasses is just a product high in calcium. Plus I cut my Nitrogen down to next to nothing so the calmag gives them...

Its impossible to tell at this point but be aware there are plant attacking fungi and bacteria that cause identical damage to what u have going on. Just want u to be aware.

Exactly, all I will use is MG. If u want organic, use MG Organic. I dont grow with soil anymore but if I do its MG all the way.

They are savable but that may depend on the water u just added, if u straighten up the ph to about 6.5 they will take off. U can use the nutes u have for vegging, I use a 1-2-2 ratio on my moms and get fantastic vegetative growth, and never had an N def so I never changed back. I wouldnt be...

To feed cannabis veg formula 6 weeks into flower is some of the worst advice I have ever heard in my entire life and Im going to chalk it up to a typo and correct him by saying to feed a mixture of bloom and veg formula for the first 1/4 of flowering (i.e. 2weeks of mixed nutes on an 8 week...

Dont flush yet, if u have a deficiency it will only make it worse!!! Im against flushing unless u are sure its burn, or u are harvesting and want to clean out the nutes. Instead I encourage u to learn what the problem is by correcting one thing at a time and monitoring for results. What GH...

Here are some leaf pics of my confirmed fungal infection. I prune really bad leaves, and cut bad parts of leafs off, that really slows it down. I also keep my temps a few degrees cooler, humidity under 50%, nitrogen levels as low as possible (fungus feeds mostly off of Nitrogen) and I...

U have a fungal infection, commonly mistaken for many deficiencies. Toss the really bad plants before they infect the whole crop and wipe u out. Get a fungicide like Serenade or Daconil, and apply as a drench to the healthy plants. Fungus enters thru the stomatas, which are located on the...

I thought u were using bags as a humidity dome, sorry. Light is not needed until the plant breaks soil, having no light will promote them to search for light and they will break ground a tad faster, but having a light on wont stop them from coming up so either way u want to do it is fine, but...

Nitrogen def happens at the bottom of the plant, when damage is at the top, its a micro nute def, or a possible bacterial disease is ur PH high? That or poor nutrition will cause a micro nute deficiency and damage the top portion of the plant. EDIT, u need to resume feeding and check PH./