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ok what kinda of soil are you using. ok first off the yellowing is hard to pin down it could be any of several defficiencies. which is problematic cuz your also suffering fert burn. 1st. stop feeding it, and if your spraying fert on the leaves stop entirely. 2. if your using maricle grow...

thats deffinatly fert burn. flush

a 1 hour 12-12 change shouldnt cuase any real problems. worst youll see is roughly 1 week of vaguely delayed growth

well unless your in extreem northern florida its not gonna get cold enough to really damage it. florida is good. from the pics im guessing some strain of sativa, which has a longer flowering cycle on average. dont really worry about a plastic bag unless you know theres a frost coming. you...

spotting can occur from droplets focusing light like a lens and buring, or by too heavy a nute spray, or by bugs, or by several differant difficiancies or excesses post some pics or check the plant problem section

looks normal from those pics. hairs turn brown according to age mostly, early hairs brown early. thats a guess anyway.

u gots to give dem roots a bit of a dry cycle. encourage root growth, a bigger root mass will help difuse the problem

i mirrored my walls. but i also trim. i almost never remove a whole leaf. and i never touch anything above the 5th or 6th node (counting down from the top) i do cut the outer finger leaves, leaving the largest middle 3-5 leaves. those leaves continue to grow, the plant detects it as predation...

well just to start with thats not enough light, you need to get to at least 3000 lumen per foot at proper spectrum. and thats minimum i dealy you want closer to the 4000+ range. i got mine to 5700 with some clever cfl mounting and some creative mirroring

dude u got it made. your still early in the flower cycle, those should get at least twice as large if not larger. provided light fert ph blah blah yadda yadda.

well if shes only been in flower for 6 days cloning wont be any harder than normal, but sooner rather than later.

well the yellow tips is nute burn. i avoid the mg logo like the plague. the downward curving and alagator skin is usually a sign of overwatering. the downward curving can also be light seeking behavior if the stem is getting alot of light from the side. dragon skin if i recall can sometimes...

well how long did the clones have between rooting and flowering?? sounds like a root catchup issue to me, mama had longer to put down roots, can pull more nutrients for budsites. also is your mama getting alot more light than the clones?

if ur getting salt buildup your ph is off. are you sure its not hard water buildup?

no reason to remove a leaf untill its more than 50% brown. plus if its a fert issue removing leaves will increase the problem. just cut back how much fert u use

a 4 inch fan will need 4 inch duct, use the alumized dryer venting, its very flexible and cheap, last longer than the same thing in plasting. you can use a reducer and go down to 3 inch duct, but itll make your exhuast point more noticable, itll also cuase more backpreassure on the motors...

aye fert burn. dont go strictly by ppm, u got to have your ratios good as well

you should, its good work, pays good, no heavy lifting. and the tooling investment isnt that bad for a journeyman. small voltage tester, hammer, wire strippers, boxknife, bent needlenose pliers, linemans cutters, wire cutters ,9 or 13 in one screwdriver. on the tools if you buy cheap they do...

no you cant, well that is no dont do that, 1st itll coat the connection end in a veriety of carbon compounds that dont conduct very well. then theres the heat stress to the copper itself which will reduce electron transfer on the wire surface. also drematicly increases the odds of arcfailure.

too much fert too early, thats the yellowing. the curving is from too much water.