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At that temp a few days is all it should take, a few days longer if it was cooler. To be clear that temp and humidity sound good.

they look overwatered to me. All the cations compete with each other, some like K are easily and rapidly taken up all along the root, some are not like Ca. it is only taken up from the tip, but if you increase the amount in solution of one it will decrease the amount of another cation or all...

It has a tiny amount of osmocote mixed with it, and I mean a tiny amount. It will be fine to use. Usually it has been handled so roughly that it is dust is the only thing wrong it.

All these companies putting these "lines" or as phyto put it "suites" of their nutrients together like you have to use all of their products is for ripping people off. I dont know what the NPK ratio of their base a and b are but thats probably all you need. I often veg with one brand and flower...

usually 4 will be red or orange colored and 7 will be blue or green, I dont know if that brand color codes or not.

Star Dog is right just increase total E.C. In coco you may need to go high until you start multifeeding. 1.8-2EC for a few fertigations and then go down to 1.5 and once you start multifeeding per day you may only need 1 E.C.

Now days it may be cheaper to get a pre-made. HLG has some new bar type that the driver is not mounted to fixture, which is reason why i always made my own.

Can you adjust the amount of air exchange and let the plants add humidity to the tent instead of using the humidifier.

If you lower E.C. a little more once you go to multifeeds per day may stop your tip burn. I have started going to E.C. 1 once i am multifeeding per day. Once you are replenishing with nutrients and water several times per day it doesnt take a high E.C.

What is the price per lb over there now, compared to 10yrs 20yrs ago?

I wouldnt call that foxtailling, but dont worry about foxtailling if it starts. I dont know why people think it is bad, if your doing this to get high the ones that do foxtail often have a great high.

The post about corn is closest you will get to lbs per acre, thats how row crops are prescribed amount of fert per acre.

PPM in the solution of N P K etc is what is always used, the weight or whatever you after is never done. Way too many variables like size, time, etc. 100 to 150 ppm N 30-60 ppm P, and 150-200 ppm K is a good starting point.

Increasing total EC works better for me than increasing Mg by itself. If you think your having Mg problem giving Ca at same time is not good idea. In coco increasing total EC for first week after transplanting is all it takes, you can probably drop EC down after that.

My two selections from my last pack of Hp D. I have gone through a lot of packs of it over the years every time produced a couple of good ones. All of them have been strong. I only care about the high but for you terpene nuts, my old cut is mothballs, these two are old sweaty soured gym socks...

If they are after a criminal gang or people stealing power I can see them looking hard in cases like that, or as someone said beating your wife or some other unlawful act while you have a garden. Hate for the them get to you instead of the real criminals.

Are you sure they are looking for grows? The illegal states in the US are not even training drug dogs for cannabis anymore, hard to believe they would be spending time flying drones around looking for grows.

Thanks for links Lou. Its not a accumulator but will passively uptake with mass flow, is what I got out of them. At least the hemp varities tested were uptaking it, each hemp variety at different rates. Looks like 300 to 600kg per hectare, which is a lot but since its passive uptake it will...

Lou can you link where the studies are showing Si gets past roots in cannabis.

To the poster, if you end up treating the mothers with Imid and then pesticide test the flowers from the cuttings let us know what you found.