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I don't see anything to worry about. You'll never retain every damn leaf no matter how healthy the plant. Give them a shot of a high N food if you want, but not too much as that can impede flowering.

Coffee can? Seriously...there are cheaper, better ghetto alternatives. Even a sawed off 2 liter bottle would be better. I wouldn't want heavy metal seeping into my medium. Whatever. Make sure you put enough drain holes in what you use, and don't use Miracle Grow, it's low quality. Jack's Classic...

You should start a staggered harvest program. Harvest only the topmost buds when they are mature, leaving the lower ones to mature for a few more weeks.

Chlorosis or yellowing can heal. Necrosis or dead spots, burning, and bleaching will not heal. Never remove a leaf unless you can pull it off easily, the plant has chemical triggers that "know" when a leaf is worthless and will drop it itself.

There is a product you may want to try called Dutch Master's Reverse. It is used to make seedless watermelons commercially and can be used to "reverse" hermaphrodites that are not genetic. I had a few hermies due to light leaks and it cleared them up, diesel ryders that went on to produce 1.5oz...

There's no faulting your logic, but can the plant tell time? I thought it was more along the lines of the plant measuring the amount of light time and dark time to tell when to flower. If that is the case, reducing the light too much could cause re-vegetation.

Feed it but keep in mind it will require less food and water than before you cut stuff off. Try to estimate the proportion of bud removed and cut your food ratio the same amount.

Powerful lights require me to dry my plants for an hour outside the room under mild light or get bleaching from the drops acting as prisms. Other than that, it's the fastest method, just not practical under many conditions or optimum for uptake. I only do it when something needs to be corrected...

Interesting, I am also experimenting with a three stage harvest on my autoflowerers to make up for their small size. I have no control for the experiment, but I can see how much more bulk I have added to lower buds by letting them grow 2 weeks after removing the tops. Since I only use one room...

Making wild and definitive declarations is fun on the internet isn't it? Here's another: 10% of the people on this forum know something about 90% of what they say, and the rest (you) know 10% of the facts about 90% of what they say. My sister is very ill and cannot hold a job. It took 2 years...

To my understanding, ANY psychoactive can induce the first schizophrenic episode in people with the genetic predisposition. If you've gotten reallllly high, or done shrooms/LSD/mescaline etc and not completely lost it, you're probably in the clear. My sister is schizo-affective. Weed makes her...

Undoubtedly mouse munchies

Yes that was about what I was thinking too. The mold is in the drywall however, so I may need to abandon that closet all together. Or could I just bleach and paint over the moldy areas? My system was just autoflowerers in one room, so no mothers or any other losses except some seedlings. The...

This is the plant problem forum, yours is more of a general set of questions. The FAQ on this site answers all that and more, https://www.rollitup.org/view.php?pg=faq

Yes new growth looks outstanding, dark green and shiny, but the blotching keeps moving upward faster than it can grow away from it.

Last plants are done, they were autos and finished in 10 weeks from seed. Current troubled plant is 2 months old, showing only preflowers as it is on 20/4. Autos were transitioned slowly between veg and flower.

I have tried adding Ionic boost 0-5-6 which greatly enhanced flowering on the mature plants, but did nothing to stop their defoliation. I have tried soil pH testers on all affected plants, though I am unsure of such a device's accuracy, and it always said 6.5-7 6 inches down. I have also tried...

I've already done the research and tried what I could. pH after adding nutes is 6.3-6.5. I have tried foliar and regular applications of epsom, as well as watering with dissolved lime, and chelated Mn without effect on the leaf deformation and spotting. That's a nice resource ak-fourtyseven...

Hey all, newish grower here, legal in MI :bigjoint: I have a recurring problem where the leaves, starting from the middle-lower ones, start getting rust spots between the veins that multiply and then the leaves yellow and die from the tips and margins. This has been happening to three...

That looks like thrip damage, check for little white insects.