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fyp

yep, those. couldn’t resist at that price point.

thats not a recommendation you fool, but the typical measurements when driven at exactly 2200mA at 25°C. those min/man values are the outliers of the measurements, as you usually test more than one board and not all boards behave exactly the same due to manufacturing. the max current the board...

if i would add reds i‘d probably downsize to 320h. scored me some 12 of those cheap arrow boards the other day, finally gonna utilize that unused 185h-c700b driver i added to my driver panel ages ago in hindsight of some sidelighting. @350mA they should still have some decent output. probably...

lolwut? maybe guide your old lazy eyes to the upper right corner and try to think for a minute or two what dumb nonsense you just puked into the forum

480 is a lot over a 4x4, would not go any bigger. my 15 f strips @ 460w are around 1000-1100 umols ppfd 15cm under the fixture

at what mA are you gonna run these puppies?

the future of commercial weed is in greenhouses.

as long as fixtures don’t allow a wider adjustment over the whole spectrum this is useless. you only get a product that is good for one outcome, if any. just look at salad and how many different light recipes are there for. it all depends on what a grower wants to achieve, and what kind of plant...

i don‘t think we are and we will not for a long time be at a point where one can say, with confidence, if i change that wavelength to x, y will happen.

ANSI/ASABE S642 not specific enough for you?

you still need a dim to off driver, how else will the controller turn off the lights?

not answering after a day is now ghosting? dude hasn’t logged in since writing that post...

got myself a dynacrackpipe: quite a bit cooler than the stock one, and no hole to close anymore

fyp

and how is that LED or other lighting related?

whoever said that was definitly not bright

so you DO know how to use google, but usually just too lazy...