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Holy crap, I hope you're wrong, otherwise that plant is going to experience some hard-ass root lock someday soon.

Nute burn. Your leaves and veins are too dark green, while the new growth comes out light green. Clear sign of N toxicity. Your plants can no longer keep up with the heavy feeding and are starting to show signes of nute burn. Flush the soil and reduce the nute concentration.

K deficiency. Add a higher concentration of nutes.

No, there's no need to flush... the mold is just a at leaf level. You should snip off everything with white spots on it. Also, get one of those antifungal sprays from a plant store, that you can spray on your plant. Do it quickly, because most sprays are good only for the first 2 weeks of...

It's Magnesium or Zinc def. Buy molasses, add 2 tablespoons / gallon every watering. This will fix any and all microelement deficiencies.

This seems the most plausible answer to your problem. Hot water damages the roots, they can't absorb nutes, leaves dry up faster than they can turn brown...

I'm honestly stumped. I guess the only thing you can do is to wash the system clean. EDIT: just to cover all the fields, are the temps and humidity high in the grow room? I remember that heat stress can sometimes raise the edges or even twist the whole leaf.

Yes, chop chop chop. Don't let even the smallest amount of particles from that mold get back on your plant or you'll have to do this again. Make sure to remove all blades (not the entire leaf) that were affected. Did it rain or was the humidity outside very high?

P def. Should've added more nutes. It may also have been a nute lockdown due to high/low pH of the soil.

I have to say I can't tell anything appart because of the HPS. Do another round of pics with the lamp off and a normal light on.

Yeah, good point, forgot that the pot was huge.

Yeah, the mold should have been much larger in order to actually inflict so much damage, so it's probably salts. Well, that puts us back to square one. Roots look fine, no mold there.

yup, forgot to mention... flush.

I noticed something in the 4th pic. At the base of the stem there's some white stuff. I've never had the chance to see something like this, but I do know that a constantly moist stem will produce mold. (This is why it's always recommended not to water directly at the base of the stem.) Stem rot...

What you have here is: 1. K def. Seriously, that is one of the worst K deficiencies I've seen. That nova bloom may just not have been strong enough and you actually thought you burned her and stoped giving her the necessary K. OR... your pH may be off... 7 is pretty much in the gray zone, since...

Get a 1l container with a large water to air surface (jar - yes, bottle - no), fill it 3/4 with water, add 1 tbs dry yeast, 2 tbs sugar. Mix well. Be careful, in time the solution tends to build up a foam that can literally destroy your plant, so be careful and put the container behind the fan...

This is clearly a pH problem. The wavy, deformed leaves indicate a low pH and the brown spots in the middle of the leaf, a nute lock out. You either had alot of chlorine in the water or simply didn't check the pH.

Don't worry about the yellowing, it's natural for those single-bladed leaves to fall off. Suggestions: The bottom leaves and stems seem stretched, trying to get closer to the light. Get stronger lights, or put some lights on the sides at least. The rinkley, diformed leaves with wavy edges are a...

Yeah, forgot to mention. Use molasses every watering. The only way you can actually overdo it with molasses is to add too much at once (over 2 tablespoons/gall), because that might attract bugs and pests or might cause a mold or fungus to grow in the dish under the pot.

Well, then this is either a boron or a sulfur deficiency. What you'll want to do is to raise the molasses concentration. I add 2 tablespoons/ gallon. This will fix the problem nicely. If in a week the problem doesn't go away, add epsom salts and boric acid (both 1 teaspoon/gal) Usually...