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The best thing you can do is go to a pet store and buy pH Up... it's fo aquariums and doesn't harm roots.

Please don't post the same thing in different forums... your answer awaits you in your Plant Problem forum thread...

Throw some sheets or cloths made out of cotton. Be sure to have at least 3 layers. They shouldn't be heavy, don't want to damage the plant. What you are looking to do is isolate the air around the plant without raising the humidity.

As I said, do not cut it off. Some growers around here would slam some funny remarks or even insults regarding your laziness, but it's basically your choice. If you're lucky and the P def resided, then you won't need nutes, but if the problem continues, nutes will be required. PS: there is no...

Keep it and if possible, put some root hormone on the crack.

This may also bee light bleaching. If you keep your hand, palm up next to the top for 1 minute, does it start to feel uncomfortably hot or just mildly warm?

I meant the veins on the still dark leaves. If it's N toxicity and you flush, then the yellowing should slow down and eventually stop, while the leaves turn to a lighter green. The affested leaves will remain affected. I usually start flowering when I have 4-6 internodes. Remember that strong...

:lol::lol::lol: Best answer possible. But on a serious note, I'd recommend you get some dual spectrum HPS bulbs. This eliminates the need tu buy MH bulbs or to change them... there are some horticultural HPS bulbs that are simply fantastic.

This is either a pH problem or a nute burn... What's your pH and ppm?

Yeah, I'll also go with P def. DO NOT CUT IT OFF. Cutting off leaves that show a deficiency or any other problem just makes the deficiency/problem start attacking other leaves. That's just assenine...

Then whe can go back to my initial assumption of cal def... the good news is, even if you think I'm not right, the treatment for cal def is exactly the same as the one for mag def, meaning: add cal-mag or molasses...

I'd honestly start adding some nutes. That is a P def. Use your heads... the plant's don't necessarily need to actually suck all the P out of the soil in order to have a P def, just the P in the small amount of soil around the roots, and since weed is one of the fastest growing organisms in the...

I'm not exaclty sure what you circled there, the veins? They do seem a bit pruple, which might indicate an early P def. Otherwise, the drooping is from either too much water (not your case, I'd think) or a slightly off pH.

It is clearly not mag def, mag def affests the less vascular parts of the leaves first. Cal def doesn't cause the leaf to turn yellow at all, except in the very last part of it's stage. Calium def doesn't have to produce brown spots, yellow spots are just as significant and are actually the...

If I'm not mistaken, it's N toxicity. Due to the high amount of N (dunno from where thou) the older leaves and their veins have turned very dark green. Because of this all new growth seems a bit discolored or light. Eventually the plant can no longer handle the excess nutes and starts to burn...

That's calclium deficiency... Cal-mag or molasses (2 tbs/gal every watering) will fix this.

Oh, just remembered. Try doing this: after flushing, add some nutes with little N and alot of P. P tends to help the plant absorb magenesium naturally. This way you won't need to buy cal-mag. I've noticed that most mag defs are a result of a somewhat overlooked P def.

Plants that bushy and nice usually grow outdoors. Well, if you're already in flowering, you've already noticed the growth spurt. Plants tend to stop growing in the 3-4th week of flowering altogether and really focus on budding.

That's because horizontal bulbs shine more light perpendicular to the leaf surface. In order to avoid a burn, the droop. Mate, your yellowing cannot be caused by any N def, since your veins and leaves are dark green. An N def causes the whole leaf, includinf veins tu turn yellow, while in your...

That's what most people think, but new growth is always pumped with alot of fresh water, while older leaves tend to be more dry and thus more prone to heat burn.