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It'd probably still be faster to nurse these back to health than to restart from seed and wait for maturity. Maybe you have a root disease? Did you think about taking a clone and see how it does?

isn't that the mini-plant SOG video? OP stated they'd like to keep plant count low.

Man, You LOVE that picture! :) Seriously, though, this hits it dead on. I'll try to rep you, Gypsy Bush, but I think I gotcha recently...

I used floranova in my rainforest for a while. I'd suggest you stick to the 3part. Any organic nutrient you use will cause more shit to build up in the Vortex sprayer and it will start clogging up and not misting well.

My opinion...

That's interesting, peach +rep.

Keeping the plants under mostly blue light (MH) for the first 2-3 weeks of flowering can significantly reduce stretch.

Roseman, I see you consistently giving good helpful advice. I try to rep you anytime you get back in the rotation. Nobody needs rep, but having a high reputation will give posters the confidence to take your advice. +rep

Quality units have louvered reflectors to help dissipate the heat.

So you're belief is that the plant can make better use of this pinpoint high intensity reflection than a distributed reflection? I've always theorized that a plant can make better use of overall light when it is distributed throughout as much leaf surface area as possible - allowing the...

dude, u used to build roofs and you don't know what a "ridge" or a "ridge vent" is?

I think that many of these fertilizers are designed around the assumption that there will be some trace minerals in the water already. CalMag also contains a small amount of nitrogen. I believe that anybody using R.O. water should add at least 200ppm of cal-mag for any purpose other than leaching.

The reason that people don't use Floros for big grows is lack of penetration. You can only expect decent results from flowers that are within maybe 6" from the bulb with a T5.

The General Hydroponics 3" net cups use a 2 7/8" holesaw. Other cups may use a different size. Check at smaller hardware stores, big box stores probably won't have them.

I've seen a hortilux side by side with a cheapo. The growth difference was very noticable.

Roots don't use CO2, they use O2. h202(hydrogen peroxide) accomplishes what you're looking for.

It's not uncommon for a clone to wilt in the first couple days and then perk back up. Some genetics are simply harder to clone. Excessive wilting can indicate over or under watering. Consider building a cheap ass bubble cloner or use rock wool rather than cloning directly in soil.

You can use Fusion Plastic Spray paint Mylar is not impenetrable by light, it does leak some light. Like others suggested, Panda Film is probably the simplest, cheapest fix.

Dude, you need to use cal-mag (or equivalent) with R.O. as soon as you see pointy leaves.

I am interested in organic growing and currently setting up an all organic multi-strain "heady" grow. I'd like to join.