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Whos Ashman?? If he speaks to the contrary, then yea I'd say he's full of shit..

Which do you think is quicker to reach actual maturity, a reveged clone or a seed?? The seed??

Mechanical reeforcement can't hurt.. Fasten a block or bracket to the wall below the tube.. Then with the extra working surface you'd be able to securely fasten the tube to the block/bracket sturdily enough that its seal with the wall wouldn't be stressed.. Its necessary to do similar...

There is a product called gorilla glue.. The poly urethane version will seal any leak and be impervious to any solvent we use.. It looks transparent brown, not the wood glue.. Its all around useful 'ultra' glue (be fucking careful!).. Beyond that, Home Depot etc will carry a solvent adhesive...

Or even better, a plant that has been tested, and stress tested and did not herm at all under those conditions, then was forced to herm via chemical application such as giberellic acid, or ionic silver which forcefully disrupt ethylene pathways forcing any otherwise stable plant to produce...

Thats actually misleading in the sense that with the Aa Bb convention uppercase denotes a dominant trait, while lowercase denotes a recessive trait, but the pictures display a codominant combination.. With the Aa Bb system, all the F1's should be red phenotype and heterozygous genotype, and the...

A clone carries the genetic age of its mother plant.. A seedling will begin by growing opposing nodes.. When it reaches sexual maturity about a month into its life it will form preflowers and begin the alternating nodes you see.. A clone is as sexually mature as its mother, so they...

Doesn't look hungry..

I was wondering if that was what you meant.. When I was growing NL almost all phenos displayed that.. Not all were good yielders, but one or two were..

I'd save your money and forget the movers.. They're only really useful when you don't have the ideal lights for your space layout.. Yours are ideal for that table..

Sometimes caring too much about your reputation can be fatal..

Bet the root system explained it all then..

Nowhere near yet.. Get those thoughts out of your head until Oct 10th or so then debate harvest..

Yea, here is the secret about pot.. The plant is resilient as shit, and you can cut it anywhere above true foliage at any time without 'hurting' it (in flowering however you do not want to alter any growth patterns).. The purpose of posting the technique is to share details on a point, and a...

Have you played around with storing clones in the fridge?? I've had success in zip-locks, and water.. I snipped and gobbed the end then stored them in a ALMOST freezing bar fridge.. I got some to root as much as 3 months later, and never attempted a longer trial.. And fuck were those ready...

If it wasn't so counter intuitive then there would be no backup merit on the forum since there is little reason to point out the obvious..:) Beyond that I bet you're using it shiney side out right?? Well surprisingly enough the diffused side reflects better for plants.. Flat white diffuses...

If they were from seed, then that kind of yield variation is common.. Hope you got a clone from your good one if they were seeds..

The odd one might keep for 10years with that method.. Some will still start to dwindle from 2yrs on.. I'd guess 50% viability at 4-6years if stored well.. Storing them in a drawer etc is more variable due to temps/humidity, but alot won't make it past 18-24months under fairly cool/dry...

+rep to Bob for throwing out the scary, depressing realism..:) Its REALLY hard to safely stealth up any HID grow without alot of cash..

Jack, might I suggest ditching the foil and painting the walls flat white.. Foil is not the same as mylar, it reflects less than flat white paint, and its really tough to get a smooth reflection cast.. Beyond that I don't want to start a nute-war, but MG was never good for me in pots...