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hmm.. not sure i'd quite go with that high of an amount of minerals it's also a lot of calcium, you have that in LARGE amounts in the gypsum, crab, and oyster meal. smaller amounts in the neem and kelp as well. i'm not seeing much with the magnesium though, with large amounts of cal you want to...

ahhh, i gotcha hmm, what nutrients are you adding? any "green" based nitrogen? like comfrey, dandelion, nettles, alfalfa? i'd use your minerals, and some alfalfa and make a mini compost to give that a good two weeks with some nitrogen to kickstart the composting up again, problem with wood is...

no, i'd wait until it dries, if not it may create issues with the soil being too damp for too long, after leaching it's normal for the plant to go a bit longer before needing water again. But you want somewhat of a drier media condition when doing this. that's why it's important to allow it to...

you are very welcome man, that's why i am here. on a 5 gallon container i'd give it a good hmm, probably one gallon of water, three times over the day. ideally it'd be more than that, but leaching large containers can be tricky.. whatever you do water slowly, and only di it if the soil is...

another thing worth mentioning is that after a leaching it's not uncommon to need an application of a soluble form of nitrogen, mainly because nitrogen is easily washed away in a soil, and that's exactly what your goal is, to wash away nutrients. so it's likely you'll need a il boost of it in a...

ahh shit.. well, that's the problem then nearly 100% certain. you want to leach the media, like yesterday run SMALL amounts of water through it, over the course of a day, at least three separate times. i'd do that at least one time, and it should rebound in about 48-72 hrs or so. do NOT water...

be CAREFUL adding nutrients to an already existing mix man... and be careful doing that with an unknown compost too wait, i'm confused, is that to be made WITH the happy frog mix? or instead of? ah shit, i forgot to finish my point earlier, i got distracted with this crazy customer-bitch-lady...

@Yzfirecat well, i couldn't say, i haven't bought worm castings in nearly a decade or so i can safely say that i would for SURE go with a local source over a commercial bagged one. craigslist man, it'll probably be cheaper, probably not even screened without the worms usually the...

no not watering man, feeding. how often are you feeding it the nutrients?

ah, funny you mention that! ironically that was one of the points i liked in that link i put up for you on substrates. But in specific smaller containers do just fine with smaller particles of aeration because of the overall pressure difference, larger containers need larger forms of aeration...

I've always been a massive advocate for LOTS of aeration in organic soils, especially the mixes predicated on compost or castings. i run nearly 50% aeration, and i have literally 8 types in the soil. each doing different things i found a REALLY good site regarding organics and techniques...

if screened well and matched with a good type of aeration i'd be more comfortable using it the thing is though, when you see a compost like that, it's not going to be as nutrient dense as a typical compost made with leaves and grass and such. remember the primary thing we are using the compost...

meh... yea man, that's the typical "problem" with most composts the issue being as "compost" seems to be a fairly vague term.... annnnnd more often than not "compost" actually means "forest byproducts, ground and partially composted" i'd screen that compost for sure, the wood is more of an issue...

you should try and hit the "reply" part when responding, otherwise it won't tell me what you are saying. soo drainage holes? and how often were you feeding?

ahh, ok, so does that mean you were feeding at every water prior to that? how long have they been in the 5 gallon? and to be sure, and pardon the stupid question, but you did make drainage holes in that bucket right? hopefully a bunch of them too? I am fairly certain you are overfeeding them...

leach the soil mix. see if there is any amount of dark runoff, it'd also potentially help if there is/was a cation imbalance or toxicity issue with the mag that is locking out other nutrients. i need to know what is in your soil mix man... any advice given without that piece of information is...

ahhh i see.... how often and at what strength? also it's not really organic man... here is whats in it, i'd be betting on a cation issue more than likely. it's also relatively funny that they have castings in there... like that's useful when it's anaerobic, sealed, and used in conjunction with...

i'd say the secret to a happy organic mix is a bit more complicated, but there are some simple rules/keys that are more crucial than others. but as a whole i'd say the entire process is fairly complicated, especially in comparison to hydro-chem grows, which is sorta why hydro chems were invented...

the real advantage of the rock dusts man is it's relation with fungal microbes. in a worm bin the rockdusts aren't really needed, you'd want that more in a compost pile as wormcastings are practically 1005 bacterial basalt is a good mineral. rock dusts are a broad term and they are each...

heres a GREAT website for reaaaally pertinent information on organics. http://organicsoiltechnology.com/ read up my man, go brew yerself a niiice cup of joe and roll a fattie