First harvest success. Second run progressing nicely

Bought a grow tent to grow seeds from a survival kit, gifted to me by my sister-in-law (mimosa/white widow). First attempt got away from me a little bit as far as letting it go too far.

Also think I pulled too early. Both have potency, mimosa is good enough to keep me from the dispensary until next harvest. White widow pretty much trash. (Just found out longer flowering time for white widow so I believe I pulled that probably two weeks early). Trichomes looks cloudy under the grow light but wasn’t the case once i harvested and checked in regular light. Yield was 7 1/2 oz. In 2x4 no pruning or training. Just tossed the lardy stuff down lower if there wasn’t any “bulk” to the buds.

6 weeks in flower my second attempt. Bought seeds from growers choice. Spider farmer automated setup, using strictly VPD for reference. Blasting with 1100 ish ppfd for last 3 weeks. (2) SF-2000 squeezed into a 2x4. Zero signs of stress.

This batch is grape stomper on the left, gary payton on the right.

Cannot get my EC above 1.1 in soil and usually stays around .4

Also have 1 mimosa outside that is 2’ tall and 5’ wide. I live in the high desert (5000’). and cannot believe it survived the summer.

Bought a baby greenhouse hoping to allow it to complete flower cycle. 30+ degree swings from day to night here. 95 daytime- 60 nighttime.
 

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weeks 8 flower. Gary Payton on the right starting to show some amber trichomes. Growers choice says 50-60 days. Day 60 is Saturday.

Everything to me looks ok as a novice. I think i caused a ph imbalance on the gary payton but figure I’m so close to harvest it wont affect me at this point even if i go 65 days.

Thoughts? Critiques?

I tried to scrog this but not sure it is correct.
 

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they look good atleast from what i can see, as for the days thing I always go by look not so much what the breeder says because my growing area will prolly be a little different than there which effects over all time in flower
 
I have noticed thru the years that if I am touching the buds during the grow and then try and scope them it shows a false positive. Not saying thats what happened but I try and do two things different, one keep my paws off them and two not worry about looking for amber until the plant shows “finishing” traits unrelated to a loupe.

Lookin good!
 
Yes. Doing great. You have natural talent for this, youre already doing things that took me multiple grows to get right. Keep up the good work!
 
Yes. Doing great. You have natural talent for this, youre already doing things that took me multiple grows to get right. Keep up the good work!
Appreciate that. Actually all i did was buy the spider farmer base tent setup. Noticed humidity problems early on and purchased their dehumidifier.

Then i went crazy and rounded out the whole setup, learned about vpd and am only growing to vpd.

Been blasting them with almost 1200 ppfd daily. Started showing very minimal stress last week and backed it off to 950. Wanted to make sure im in a good place, dont think i will lose anything im so close but didnt really know for sure.

Ended up with 2- sf200 squeezed into a 2x4 in this grow.

Gonna transfer setup to a 3x3 next grow and shoot for 1 sour diesel (my all time favorite). In a 10 gallon fabric pot.

Will 2 sf-200’s be enough? I could actually fit 3 in my 3x3 tent but not sure more light is necessary. The 2 soider farmer lights are set to 62% for 950 ppfd and also keeps the heat WAY down
 
If their dehueys dont hold up at some point, I use frigidair but midea has good tests conducted that show slightly better performance. As for light, plants each have different light sturation points. Some will do great with basic lighting and actually get stressed if to push further. Some will want that 1200ppfd or even more.

For 3x3 Id get a nice bar light. It sounds like you want to do one big plant which thats great for. Its tricky tho, getting a plant to fill a 3x3 wall to wall usually an empty corner or two. The plant wants to slightly change canopies so you got to encourage it to grow wide and flat.

I like the vipar spectra ks3000 but they are discontinueing it so it wont be available for long. It has agreeable ppfd ratings tho more uniform than anything Ive seen at the time. I like to put a boxfan above that and with this canopy training you shouldnt get powdery mildew.

Budrot on some underground shit tho Im starting to realize regardless of grow method.. Is related to increased rootpressure from overwatering combined with humidity being high enough. It becomes unpractical to keep it at 40rh or lower. The boxfan helps speed up transpiration avoiding gutation in buds that the mold will feed off of and infect your plant to the trash bin.

My plant sizes are 2.5x2.5 or 3x3. Trying to cram more plants messes with symmetry and if the pheno is an explosive grower, it will grow out of control. My plant sizes are common, have had more than otherwise that wouldnt even grow easy in a 2x2. So I just use one light per plant space, not more with various lights to be adjustable for.

Only time Id do that if its a 5x5 with 4 lights covering 2.5x2.5. Isolation is good too tho if you decide to breed later or even if you just dont want to toss a whole 5x5 for mold or pollen causing seeds. I just bought five 2.5x2.5’s for this reason and keeping my 3x3.
 
For my 2.5x2.5 I use mars hydro fce1500 five of them. I like working with plants with lower light saturation points for say, my breeding project. So if others grow my seeds they dont have to look into fancy lights that do 1200ppfd across the whole map. To bring out certain traits. I put box fans above every bar light even for veg.

You could get a stronger light so it CAN satisfy her if she is a light feen.
 
I have limited indoor space. I actually have 2 2x4 tents full spider farmer setup and my 3x3 is for drying currently. I purchased a bar light (se-4500) and it give me heat problems even in a room with ambient temperature 65F.

I live in the desert so humidity is not a problem. The closed up tent gets humid im assuming from the plants themselves.

Basically when the vpd goes above 1.05 the dehumidifier and the 4” vent fan kick on. Clip fan runs all day/night over the canopy at full power and oscillation. I would be surprised if i have humidity issues. Sometimes the tent “smells” wet and i just open it during lights on and let it dry out a bit.

Natural humidity is around 40% inside but single digits outside.

Growing 1 outside, 15 gallon fabric pot. About 30” tall 54” around. Looks real nice so far takes a LOT of water.

I am actually feeding it nutes, it takes 6 gallons before i see runoff
 
So a 2x4 is tiny, I had one before. They get humid quick. 4” fan isnt much air exchange. The next biggest size for you would be 2.5x5 which will handle rh way better. I cut the bug screens because theyll get dusty and hard to reach and need cleaning weekly. More air flow, I open every vent and even the duct ports that tend to be next to them. I roll them open.

I use 6” inline fan and carbon filter with filter and fan on top of fan to make room for boxfans above bar lights. These allow for maximum space inside canopy wont block light or plants. I thought you didnt need them at all but once you get PM you got two options. Try my way or shut down entirely and throw away any uncleanable equipment and clean everything rigorously as if its going to be a computerchip lab.

Then hope it doesnt come back but it probably will. They say its the worst thing that can happen to anyones garden but I disagree. Im almost 19 plants ago I had it. You have to get it to know how to avoid it. Clip fams blowing around above the plants aint getting deep down below and all around.

Budrot is similar too. I just found if the plants arent gutating in buds, you shouldnt get it. PM can easily start just below a few leafs blocking airflow its tricky and a art. I didnt clean anything. This can happen at 40-55rh if the root pressure is increased.

Do you have any heat issues? I use a portable ac which raises humidity as well. The bar lights wont give heat issues in tent if you put a box fan above it especially if driver is detachable just put it on top of tent. The industry is moving to pre set settings in dial instead of free spinning ones, 3x3 bar lights not having detachable driver and blocking airflow for box fans. I have like none to choose from.
 
I am having heat issues with the bar light. 85F.

Hotter than i want it but not sure it is extremely detrimental.

I will be very surprised if i end ip with PM.

When i transfer everything to the 3x3 i will put 1 fan above 1 fan below. Once i get a regular job all the lst and scrogging will have to stop cuz it takes too much time. Hella fun tho with nothing else to do.
 
Lol I flipped veg plants and was back up running in no time. I didnt believe it would work but I owe the community a thanks for walking me thru it promising me it was going to be ok. I didnt think id see Pm either. Its in the air and air gets finely dispersed across the planet so no ones really safe. People never seen it but I saw it just a year into my dedicated ever growing grow.

My driver on my bar lights are cool to the touch. The light will still raise temps especially in a small room like 100 sq ft idk what you have. I needed a portable ac basically as soon as I had two mars hydro ts1000’s in a 2.5x5. Was 80F in room and 85F or more in tents. Im in north midwest so its not even that hot for me infact I get this issue when its above 30F outside.
 
So my hope is maybe a 3rd sf-2000 for the 3x3 and i could hit 900 ppfd at like 40% or less power. Dehumidifier creates heat as well. Leaving the door open during lights on seems to keep temps manageable, dont think that will be the case in winter. My house A/C is set to 68F and pretty much runs constantly in desert temps till fall. Keeps temps in my room manageable.
 
How big is your grow room? My home ac didnt do much I ended up blocking it and keep using just the portable ac. I tried opening door to room and use pedestal fan to blow air into the room but it just didnt cut it. In late fall/winter I just open window and blow cool air into the room and its as strong as an ac unit even stronger.

Using stronger lights Id think would make it worse. My dehuey doesnt really add heat its when theres heat to feed off of to then blow super hot air. When lights were off the temps would drop all the way.
 
Oh and smaller tents will make that worse too. The heat and humidity just doesnt have any room to react in the tent chamber. The more space in tent, the more space to absorb humidity and heat and expell it properly making plants work like a swamp cooler, it actually lowers temp.

2x2’s or 2x4 is just too small. Youd be suprised what every inch of a tent can impact environment inside. My 2.5x2.5 is 6 ft tall and I can feel it in the hygrometer. If only it was 6.5ft tall and an extra inch or two wide. Its not even like a 2.5x5 thats 6.5 ft tall. This is why I think what I described. Choose wisely lol.
 
The humidity and heat issues is exactly why im hoping the 3x3 with 1 plant will largely resolve my heat issues. Not as worried about humidity.

The spider farmer dehumidifiers are compressor dehumidifiers. They create heat just by operating.

All my equipment is outside the tent but for the lights and clip fans.
 
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