NFTG. Nectar For The Gods

bubba73 said:

Scott was saying that some people seen more oil when used thru flower....

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Nice....I do like it....I use it week 3-4 flower, then I stop and start to work in Persephone till week 6, then aphrodites to finish. I wonder what terps it influences? When I heard that Tritons brings on a more gassy fruit, I was sold!! I love gas/diesel fuel terps. I might try an experiment and run one on Peg and one on Triton to see if it brings any differences. I'm curious to know if anyone has used New Millenium Winter Frost to finish a nectar run. There is little info on the net.

so far I'm looking at crustacean meal for the calcium in amended soil , gro-kashi TD to help with gum , bokashi in amended soil ,aloe for transplant along with Bigfoot , coconut water with my cultured teas .... does this look ok ?

bubba73 said:

so far I'm looking at crustacean meal for the calcium in amended soil , gro-kashi TD to help with gum , bokashi in amended soil ,aloe for transplant along with Bigfoot , coconut water with my cultured teas .... does this look ok ?

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Look in good, the crustacean is an awesome chitin source too.

IrieRoots said:

Look in good, the crustacean is an awesome chitin source too.

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im also using fish Sh!t with my tea days ....where would Be-1 come to play ? use in amended soil ?

bubba73 said:

im also using fish Sh!t with my tea days ....where would Be-1 come to play ? use in amended soil ?

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I would add it to TopD to keep the soil life fed. I like it so much because of the gentle NPK, and you can range how active your soil life is by how fast or slow the pellets get eaten. So I do 2 teaspoons at Flip per 3 gallon, and again at week 4. I might throw a teaspoon of them between that time if they are getting crushed by soil life just to keep things moving. Just none past week 4 on a 8/9 weeker, could go later with later genes of course.

don't know about others but I get some leafs with relish/purpleish stems , a mag issue I'm thinking but how can I get that into the soil with out using a bottle ? epsom salt.....answer my own question ....should add that to my amended soil

I get the same, more so under LED's and strain dependent. I foliar epsom early on until the Demeters starts working in the soil. I'm real carefull about drenching it, like anything....start low dose and watch it over 2 or 3 days....a week....for the result. Then up dose if it seems to be working.

Bet the RO water lends to that too. SEA-90 might be even better to foliar or drench weekly. Purple petioles can be any number of things????? I think if I could get my lights higher above the canopy it would stop it. But Not really an option.

been thinking about brewing teas on tea day ... so my thinking is on a tea day use cultured and next tea use brew tea .. thoughts on this ? since I'm new to brewing and so many options I'm trying to weed thru this too... Scott sent me a recipe : 1 cup castings , 1 cup of humus or compost (alaskan magic top soil ) or (Malibu compost) with un-sulphered molasses .. what has me worried is the molasses takes a while to be broken down ?

bubba73 said:

been thinking about brewing teas on tea day ... so my thinking is on a tea day use cultured and next tea use brew tea .. thoughts on this ? since I'm new to brewing and so many options I'm trying to weed thru this too... Scott sent me a recipe : 1 cup castings , 1 cup of humus or compost (alaskan magic top soil ) or (Malibu compost) with un-sulphered molasses .. what has me worried is the molasses takes a while to be broken down ?

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If your water temp during brew is 70-72 degrees and you have lots of dissolved oxygen, the microbes will punish all the molasses. I recommend TEALab compost tea brewer kit. The air stone method is a joke!! And that recipe is spot on from scott!! Check out Tim Wilson, "The Microbe-Man" website, its aerated compost tea GOLD!! These brews are only as good as the Castings/Compost are.......you can't bubble Wiggle-Worm brand castings and expect a good result. The molasses is the KEY when aerating too, Fish aminos are a great food source too but I wouldn't use until you get the hang of brewing.

I used to take the mad scientist approach with my AACT and kelps, humics, fulvics, blah,, blah, blah blah, etc....but really not necessary and normal does way more harm then good. Now I just do 5 gallon brews with=
- 1 Cup homemade castings
- 1 Cup compost (I use either Bu's, Oly Mt Fish, Lobster, Buffaloam or TEAlabe life cube)
- 2 Tbs ThriveN Fish aminos 14-0-0
- 1/2 Tbs organic blackstrap molasses (unsulphured)
Bubbled 24-36 hours depending on needs
(FOAM does not mean your tea is finished and doesn't even mean your tea is great and bursting with life....so do go by the foam)
Without a microscope, your nose is your best tool for a TEA that's ready, it takes practice but you will pick it up. As the microbes feed the smells change, when that sweet molasses smell starts to fade and your getting more of an earthy, yeast like smell its time to apply. This usually occurs after 24 hour brew. If it goes anaerobic, you will know immediately, again.....with your nose!! Dead rotting trash!!

TEA extras once you get the swing of things and for certain stages or plant responses. Add to above recipe
- Handful of straw or Alfalfa Meal--requires longer brew time 36 hours plus, allows more protozoa to colonize.
- 1/4 - 1/2 Cup insect frass-- Add last 2 hours of brew (also a protozoa source and lots of other benefits)
- 2 Tbs Roots Terp TEA or Buildasoils BuildaBloom or DEM teas
- sometimes add 1 Cup of bokashi, but not often.

I don't recommend Kelp extracts or humic/fulvic added to TEAS as from my study I've learned that it can slow, whipe out or even kill microbes in a AACT. Plus the water turning brown when you add compost is an extraction of humics, humics created by the living organisms that are also being extracted so adding extra foreign humics to the tea recipe can disrupt the life. Its different with spore form dry instant teas as they need to wake up and start eating whatever is available to survive. AACT and instant teas are two entirely different things. So I just avoid any kelp or humic products when brewing. You will see countless recipes with both of these ingredients but they are not necessary and do more harm than good. Just read up on the MicrobeMan and check out TEAlab.

thanks again for your help !!! I have the 5 gallon bucket and pump just don't have the "snake" I have air stones ( which not good ) .. I have the unsulphered molasses just not black strap....

bubba73 said:

thanks again for your help !!! I have the 5 gallon bucket and pump just don't have the "snake" I have air stones ( which not good ) .. I have the unsulphered molasses just not black strap....

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As long as it unsulphured you are good to go. air stones will work fine too just not ideal and a pain to keep clean.....they can harbor the bad microbes over time and make thing difficult for successfull brews. If your water is bubbling enough to shake move the TEA bag you should be fine. The air is a dual function part, it raises the dissolved oxygen for the microbes and the bubbling around the tea bag dislodges the microbes from the compost into the molasses water. If it looks like the bubbles are not large enough or moving the surface of the water level, try using less volume of water.....like 2.5 gallons instead of 4 gallons. Air lift brewers are cool as he'll too, pretty simple DIY........he'll you could DIY the bubble snake but they are cheap. Keep it simple and experiment with what you have. Post a pick of your water bubbling at 4 gallons and I might be able to tell if it's sufficient, would like to see your pump too.

IrieRoots said:

As long as it unsulphured you are good to go. air stones will work fine too just not ideal and a pain to keep clean.....they can harbor the bad microbes over time and make thing difficult for successfull brews. If your water is bubbling enough to shake move the TEA bag you should be fine. The air is a dual function part, it raises the dissolved oxygen for the microbes and the bubbling around the tea bag dislodges the microbes from the compost into the molasses water. If it looks like the bubbles are not large enough or moving the surface of the water level, try using less volume of water.....like 2.5 gallons instead of 4 gallons. Air lift brewers are cool as he'll too, pretty simple DIY........he'll you could DIY the bubble snake but they are cheap. Keep it simple and experiment with what you have. Post a pick of your water bubbling at 4 gallons and I might be able to tell if it's sufficient, would like to see your pump too.

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ill have pics up soon ... I'm only doing a test run on 2 gallons , when the brew is done do I gotta dilute it ? add it to another 2 gallons of water before I root drench ? or can I just root drench it in ...

also I see where worm castings are not equal ... I'm using Unco industries for right now and I see build a soil has Colorado worm casting are better during flower ... so , im thinking using Unco for veg and amended soil till gone and using Colorado casting just for flowering ...I also see where I can also add frass in to as a tea ...

here some pics ...just check my ppm and ph of the water in the bucket that came from sink ..ppm 300 /ph 8.2 .... so I'm gonna dump that and do RO water ...

Great pump, can handle a full 4 gallon brew, no need to dilute. I water full strength to a light pot saturation....Colorado worm castings are FIRE, none better, unless home grown worm bin!! Use for veg and flower, the brew is for microbe extraction and not necessarily for the soluble nutrients from the Castings. Use the unco for now but if you have good compost/humus I would add an extra 1/2 Cup because Unco doesn't have the bustling life that quality worm castings have. Shit, even spagnum peat has the same micro life that Alska forest humus has in it, and a cheap alternative. You can even bubble your amended soil and multiply the life that is living in it. I too started with Unco......there is no cheaping out in this department, great TEAs & TOPD come from great starting point! you can start a homemade worm bin from a few scoops of the Colorado because there is worm cocoons and baby living worms in the bag. Fill a 3, 5 or 10 gallon fabric pot with good compost, peat moss, amend it like a COOTS living soil and throw 3 or 4 cups of Colorado worm castings in, cover with straw or moist newspaper to retain moisture and by the time you finish a cycle your new worm bin will be multiplying like crazy and creating gold. Buildasoil brand castings are fire too and a little cheaper but man those Colorado are the very best quality I've ever purchased.

I Ph my starting water down sometimes, Scott even recommends using HERC to drop high Ph starting water, I can see how this would be beneficial due to microbes like a Ph from 6.2-7.2 so droping them into a solution and forcing them into large ph swings can cause death or dormancy. I too used RO just like you are planning and it works great but I have read that fungi don't really grow much in RO water. All the great soil scientist say rain water is the best, or even river water. I'd throw some SEA90 in the RO so your water is not dead and bubble it for an hour or two to get the dissolved oxygen up a bit and then add ingredients.....then sit back and watch the magic happen!! Get your hands dirty or use a sturdy stick about 12 hours into brew and squeeze tea bag, knock it around a little manually....it gets more microbes dislodged and into the solution. Use your nose the entire time, its your best tool to learning what's happening and whether or not the food reserves are getting low.

Just an FYI...I asked the SLF100 guys on instagram if its better to mix SLF100 with the nectar or do it alone. The SLF100 guys replied its better to do it alone the following watering after feeding. However, it is still effective when mixing with nectar as well.