A Guide To Colloidal Silver

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EverythingsHazy

Well-Known Member
whitebb2727 said:
Humans and plants are different. The goal for humans and plants is different.


I'm just saying I've tried it clear and other colors. Amber works the best.

Can you post some pics of plants you sprayed? I would like to see your cs generator and how well your process works on plants. How many pollen sacs show up.
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Did you read the OP? I posted pics of clear CS, and of a treated plant, in the OP. Amber works fine, but clear works as well, and has smaller particles.

The plant in the OP was actually treated with amber CS, just to see if it would work, and it does, but I wouldn't aim for that. It isn't necessary to let it run so long that it turns amber or grey. It works perfectly, when it's clear, and doesn't have large particles, so there should be less buildup on the plant's surfaces, and more buildup within the plant's tissues. The only reason it was amber, is because I hadn't added an air stone to my generator, when that batch was made, and the particles agglomerated more than they do when the water is kept moving with the bubbles.

So far, pretty much everyone who has followed my guide, has had great success.

EverythingsHazy said:
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EverythingsHazy said:
And is run like this for 5-15 hours: (Note the air pump + air stone in the jar)



Pollen Sacs
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blake9999 said:
Mine has A amber color to it, so I guess everything went well. I used a iPhone charger, I think they around 5 volts, and let it run eight to ten hours between two days. Laser has a bright line shining through it.
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That means your particles are larger than they would be in a clear suspension. It very well might work just fine for your plant reversal purposes, but you didn't have to leave it so long. Were you not using an air stone, or not cleaning your electrodes often?
 
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whitebb2727

whitebb2727

Well-Known Member
EverythingsHazy said:
Did you read the OP? I posted pics of clear CS, and of a treated plant, in the OP. Amber works fine, but clear works as well, and has smaller particles.

The plant in the OP was actually treated with amber CS, just to see if it would work, and it does, but I wouldn't aim for that. It isn't necessary to let it run so long that it turns amber or grey. It works perfectly, when it's clear, and doesn't have large particles, so there should be less buildup on the plant's surfaces, and more buildup within the plant's tissues. The only reason it was amber, is because I hadn't added an air stone to my generator, when that batch was made, and the particles agglomerated more than they do when the water is kept moving with the bubbles.

So far, pretty much everyone who has followed my guide, has had great success.





That means your particles are larger than they would be in a clear suspension. It very well might work just fine for your plant reversal purposes, but you didn't have to leave it so long. Were you not using an air stone, or not cleaning your electrodes often?
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Excuuuuse me. I'm a pot smoker and forget stuff.


With human you want very little silver. It will turn your skin colors. With plants you want to inhibit hormones.

I'm not talking dark color. I mean clear with an amber hue.

Every guide I've read has suggested amber color. Yes I clean my electrodes and used air.

I've tried clear all the way to amber. In my experience and opinion amber works better on more plants and faster show times.
 
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blake9999

blake9999

Well-Known Member
I used a iPhone charger (5 volts i believe) as my power source and a air pump for bubbles and motion in the jar. Ran it for seven hours the first day, then three hours the next. Had to wipe the black shit off the electrodes about every half hour. Laser light shines a bright line through it. I would take a picture but the damn flash washes out the laser light. Mine came out Amber colored.
 
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EverythingsHazy

Well-Known Member
whitebb2727 said:
Excuuuuse me. I'm a pot smoker and forget stuff.


With human you want very little silver. It will turn your skin colors. With plants you want to inhibit hormones.

I'm not talking dark color. I mean clear with an amber hue.

Every guide I've read has suggested amber color. Yes I clean my electrodes and used air.

I've tried clear all the way to amber. In my experience and opinion amber works better on more plants and faster show times.
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I know the purposes of use are different for humans and p lants, but the method of how it enters the tissues is the same. It has to have small enough particles, in order to penetrate into living tissues, unless you are just using it topically, which isn't the case for plants. A side-by-side test of clear CS and amber CS would be cool.

From everything I've read, I still would recommend people keeping it clear.
 
whitebb2727

whitebb2727

Well-Known Member
EverythingsHazy said:
I know the purposes of use are different for humans and p lants, but the method of how it enters the tissues is the same. It has to have small enough particles, in order to penetrate into living tissues, unless you are just using it topically, which isn't the case for plants. A side-by-side test of clear CS and amber CS would be cool.

From everything I've read, I still would recommend people keeping it clear.
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See that's the thing. Every guide for plants I've read says to go for amber. I'm not talking dark color. Just a hue.

This is from multiple breeders guides from the top selling breeders.

I say use what works. I've had the best luck with the amber.
 
Z

Zero_OS

Well-Known Member
whitebb2727 said:
...
Cs will not ever show ppms. It will always read zero. No way to check.
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Confirmed. I made a batch of cs that looks a little like piss, and I get a zero reading on ec and ppms...not sure how others are getting a ppm reading from their cs. Haven't used it to generate pollen yet, but it sure is working wonders on my athletes feet.
 
dakilla187

dakilla187

Well-Known Member
Im making cs silver right now and its just about 15 hours, started with water ar 4ppm now its 5ppm..Laser shines nicely through it...

Going to stop it now as I guess its done? 15 hours one ppm increase and laser shines very bright and clean through it...Water is mostly clear
 

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E

EverythingsHazy

Well-Known Member
dakilla187 said:
Im making cs silver right now and its just about 15 hours, started with water ar 4ppm now its 5ppm..Laser shines nicely through it...

Going to stop it now as I guess its done? 15 hours one ppm increase and laser shines very bright and clean through it...Water is mostly clear
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Are you saying that you started the process with 4ppm water, as opposed to 0ppm distilled/RO water? If so, that can have an effect on the resulting composition of the solution/suspension you've created. It might still work, and looks good, so it may still work. If you get a nice laser beam, it has a decent amount of silver in it. The laser reflects off of the microscopic bits of silver in the water. I wouldn't ingest or topically apply it to an animal, though.
 
dakilla187

dakilla187

Well-Known Member
Well the 4 ppm water was store bought water I purchased, funny because the other bottle water I purchased before this said 24ppm, what a rip off...

I hope its good enough to reverse my plant
 
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MedellinBoyd

New Member
I have been doing this for a long time. I have gotten pollen for other cannabis plants using your method. Finally i have my generator and produced great colodial silver and they plant grew pollen sacks but no powdery pollen like on a male. The balls just fall off the plant if i shake it. I get very little pollen. What is going wrong. Thank you for you post.
 
growerNshower

growerNshower

Well-Known Member
Daniel Lawton said:
I'm hoping for the day when UC Davis fixes all that with scientific research. And we switch from Cheech and Chong as our pothead archetypes, and maybe use Morgan Freeman instead.
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Hey mannn, this kind of discrimination is BS mannn...Whats wrong with Cheech and Chong? Cheech and Chong were pioneers of the MJ movement...Try and do a little research next time mannn....and why morgan freeman? That guy is bogus mannn...haven't you read the news?
 
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ThaSeedMan

Active Member
EverythingsHazy said:
Good quality pre-made products? I have never used Tiresias Mist, but I've read good things about it.

@HighLowGrow has used it a few times, and has had some success, and his plants don't look all burnt and deformed after being sprayed.

It would probably work fine, but you may need more than one bottle, depending on how resistant your plant is to "changing", and if you plan on working with multiple plants, you'd be spending wayyy more than necessary, for much less product. I'd say if you have to go with a store bought spray, from what I've heard, TS seems like one of the better options.
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Cant go wrong with the T mist . Used it on my first 2 breeding projects until I moved on to bigger and better things than that

Also still had a 1/4 bottle left after 2 seed runs
 
Rouxdy

Rouxdy

Active Member
EverythingsHazy said:
Q: How long does Colloidal Silver last / How do I store it:
A: Colloidal Silver remains at the desired potency for at least a month.
It should be kept in glass (plastic can attract the silver particles and ruin the mixture), and in the dark.
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Just a comment on an excellent how to... I just successfully used some that is six years old. Stored in the original plastic spray bottle I put it in six years ago. Used the 9v method and left it until I had some decent branching off the silver. Sprayed an Auto Lowryder 2 branch at around 7-8 weeks, probably 10 sprays over 10 days and I've now got sacks.
 
HighLowGrow

HighLowGrow

Well-Known Member
I’m currently hitting a plant with TMist that is 9 months old or so. It was stored in the house in a dark drawer. We will see.
 
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EverythingsHazy

Well-Known Member
Rouxdy said:
Just a comment on an excellent how to... I just successfully used some that is six years old. Stored in the original plastic spray bottle I put it in six years ago. Used the 9v method and left it until I had some decent branching off the silver. Sprayed an Auto Lowryder 2 branch at around 7-8 weeks, probably 10 sprays over 10 days and I've now got sacks.
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Thank you!

I know that different types of plastic can have different/no effects on the mixture, but I haven't heard of anyone using CS as old as yours, before. That's great to hear. Congrats on the flip!
 
HighLowGrow

HighLowGrow

Well-Known Member
You get a bunch of pollen sacs. Can’t think of anything negative. Only reason to use CS on a plant is to “reverse” a fem to create pollen sacs. The pollen will stick to a white hair and make a fem seed on the same plant. :bigjoint:
 
HighLowGrow

HighLowGrow

Well-Known Member
I’m currently doing a seed run on the Stomper. Low bud site. I like Stomper so much, I'm hearing a BKR x Stomper mix in the near future.

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Poontanger

Poontanger

Well-Known Member
HLG, if I may,...…...when you self a plant, U will get a lot less seed , than using pollen you've saved , at optimal time , on a different plant , but the point im trying to establish , is , ...lets say I had 2 Northern lights, , u flip 1 earlier than the other , so u can spray it , 4 weeks later u flip the other , so as your pollen & flower are both ready together at the optimal seed production level, would these seeds be as stable or true to type as 1 northen lights , selfed ?
& how many seeds would u expect from selfing a small plant say 18 inches , compared to using 2 plants
Hope that makes sence !!
 
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