gentlemen, how to get rid of chlorophyll?

cronict1 · Mar 23, 2018

I have recently finished passing a certain solvent through some organic matter.

the quicker the passthough and colder the solvent the yellower the end result...

it took some trial and error but i got about 6-7 litres of solvent with the good stuff suspended in the liquid.

thing is i had limited solvent and so had to do several passes with the same litre bottle meaning ive got very dark liquid left over with about 6 washes worth of stuff suspended in the liquid... get me?

6 litres x 6 washes each... oooof is there a limit to the amount of good stuff the solvent can hold?

as in how you can only really get 2.5 kilos of sugar suspended in a liter of water kinda thing?

is it possible to get rid of the dark green colour? the cholophyll i mean... how? what is winterisation? is it just putting stuff n the freezer?

for my next trick if i am still a free man is to get everything and just freeze it, this is the best low tech method im taking it?

anyway cheers guys

cronict1

aaronnoraa · Mar 23, 2018

cronict1 said:
is it possible to get rid of the dark green colour? the cholophyll i mean... how? what is winterisation? is it just putting stuff n the freezer?

for my next trick if i am still a free man is to get everything and just freeze it, this is the best low tech method im taking it?

You could winterize to help with the waxes but from what I gather you will lose a significant amount of terpenes by doing so. I recently posted a method to clean up green ISO extractions with a simple procedure using butane that you may be better off trying instead. If you winterize you will likely still end up with green oil and the amount of effect the winterizing will have would depend on whether or not you winterize with the solvent you currently have your extract dissolved in (I'm guessing ISO?) or if you were to evaporate and re-dissolve in ethanol, which works better than ISO for that process.

Here's the post about my method-

https://www.rollitup.org/t/method-to-easily-clean-waxes-and-chlorophyll-from-iso-oil-without-hexane.961252/

All you would need to do this process is butane, gloves, safety glasses and an appropriate bottle. You will want to evaporate your solvent first leaving just your dark oil to use with this process.

If you have any questions about that process feel free to ask and I'll be happy to help.

Chris Edward · Mar 24, 2018

6 washes?
Ouch, but I understand, you work with what you have…
Next time try to keep it at around 2-3 washes, after that you're getting more and more chlorophyll and wax and less THC and CBD.

It may have better to do this in small batches, so the amount of solvent would be enough. Once it was washed and filtered twice, you could return it to the freezer for an hour before the next batch of “plant material”…

Solvents do have a limit to the amount of goodies they will hold on it, I am not sure what this is to be honest, it is defiantly solvent dependant.
Unless you put a pound through that liter, I highly doubt you got close to the threshold though.

As far as the green color, sure you can get rid of it, but not unless you have some lab equipment.
There’s a couple of ways you could do this, either using a separation flask or in a centrifuge.
Both are tedious and expensive and you would need to know exactly what you are doing or not only would you be wasting your time but money as well…
Don’t worry, over time the cholorphyll with turn olive green. As the solvent evaporates the oil will turn sort of an olive-drab green to doo-doo-brown anyway so unless someone shines a light on it and knows what they are looking for, they won’t notice…
You’re not going to get the bright amber yellows like the commercial oils, extracts, and shatters. That takes even more expensive lab equipment.

Proper winterization cannot be achieved in a home freezer, but you can get close and 99% of the time that's good enough.

Like you said, next time, freeze everything. The solvent, the “plant material”, the containers, everything. If you can put the solvent in a container that retains cold longer or do small batches, every little thing helps.

To be honest, I have had vape from the same strain, using a mix with as much chlorophyll kept out as possible and one where everything was mixed at room temp and to be honest, besides the one that was mixed at room temp looking like pine tar, if your vape pen, equipment, whatever is good (doesn’t taste like the coil) you probably won't notice the difference. Depending on your vape juice, you may notice it will be a little harsher on the throat, but nothing like a joint or a bong hit.

Just remember if you just smoked the “plant” material, you'd get the chlorophyll...

I hope this was helpful.

Fadedawg · Mar 24, 2018

cronict1 said:
I have recently finished passing a certain solvent through some organic matter.

the quicker the passthough and colder the solvent the yellower the end result...

it took some trial and error but i got about 6-7 litres of solvent with the good stuff suspended in the liquid.

thing is i had limited solvent and so had to do several passes with the same litre bottle meaning ive got very dark liquid left over with about 6 washes worth of stuff suspended in the liquid... get me?

6 litres x 6 washes each... oooof is there a limit to the amount of good stuff the solvent can hold?

as in how you can only really get 2.5 kilos of sugar suspended in a liter of water kinda thing?

is it possible to get rid of the dark green colour? the cholophyll i mean... how? what is winterisation? is it just putting stuff n the freezer?

for my next trick if i am still a free man is to get everything and just freeze it, this is the best low tech method im taking it?

anyway cheers guys

cronict1

Getting rid of chlorophyll is tougher than waxes. I suggest adding enough citric acid to turn the solution bright yellow, and then filtering through bentonite clay bleaching filters.

You can also fractionally distill it.

cronict1 · Mar 24, 2018

I actually have Citric acid, this will turn my good stuff yellow?

what is winterisation?

i have access to a centrifuge also what speed should i run it at and for what time?

so what your telling me is i can actually go full on RSO style then clarify with butane/hexane to get the maximum efficiency?

im after a smooth smoke... and yellow colour

The Hippy · Mar 24, 2018

I heard putting it in the sunlight can help dissipate the green....Don't know if it's true or not...never tied it.
Only offering it in case it may be true.

aaronnoraa · Mar 24, 2018

cronict1 said:
im after a smooth smoke... and yellow colour

To go from the first picture to the second took less than 2 hours and required nothing more than a can of butane, a sturdy bottle, gloves and safety glasses. You can't see it since it's so dark, but if spread thin enough for light to pass the material in the first picture was green.

Cold$moke · Mar 24, 2018

One of my favorite pictures the stuff i made was meh ok
Im trying to get better lol

Just everclear nothing fancy

Fadedawg · Mar 25, 2018

cronict1 said:
I actually have Citric acid, this will turn my good stuff yellow?

what is winterisation?

i have access to a centrifuge also what speed should i run it at and for what time?

so what your telling me is i can actually go full on RSO style then clarify with butane/hexane to get the maximum efficiency?

im after a smooth smoke... and yellow colour

Winterizing is dissolving a concentrate extracted with a non polar solvent, into a polar solvent and lowering the temperature so that the fats and waxes precipitate out, so they can be removed by filtration.

I'll ask Pharmer Joe what speed he runs his centrifuge.

Ummm, that wasn't me. You can improve it some with a Pentane, Hexane, Butane (alkane) wash, and more by adding a brine wash, but it won't take all the chlorophyll out and it will still be darker that one that has been degummed with citric acid and filtered through bentonite bleaching filters.

Fadedawg · Mar 25, 2018

The Hippy said:
I heard putting it in the sunlight can help dissipate the green....Don't know if it's true or not...never tied it.
Only offering it in case it may be true.

UV deprotonates the chlorophyll into pheophytin, which is brown instead of green, but still there as a contaminate. It will turn a greenish solution more amber.

Chris Edward · Mar 25, 2018

@cronict1,
Are you more concerned with the color of your extract or the smoke quality?
It seems everyone wants to make their extracts look like the lab extracts that commercially produced, but it isn't necessary, unless you are planning to sell it.

If you smoked a joint you would get all these "bad" chemicals as well, plus carbon.

Honestly though if your vaping equipment is good, the smoke will be smooth.
I am currently smoking straight RSO thinned with WAX Liquidizer in a Kanger protank3 and it isn't any different than the highly purified extracts I have smoked.
The thinned RSO looks greenish brown and cloudy and you cannot see through it, but other than that it is smooth to smoke and gets me plenty high.
I decarbed the cannabis before turning it into RSO.

We spend so much valuable time emulating the big guys. If these companies are so interested in your health, which is why they supposedly filter out all the "contaminants", then explain why they then choose to use cheap cartridges which off gas more terrible things then the cannabis could ever...

MikeGanja · Mar 25, 2018

Chris Edward said:
As far as the green color, sure you can get rid of it, but not unless you have some lab equipment.
There’s a couple of ways you could do this, either using a separation flask or in a centrifuge.

Very interesting. I would like to learn how to use a centrifuge to get rid of the green color. What is the name of the process?

MikeGanja · Mar 25, 2018

Fadedawg said:
Getting rid of chlorophyll is tougher than waxes. I suggest adding enough citric acid to turn the solution bright yellow, and then filtering through bentonite clay bleaching filters.

You can also fractionally distill it.

Sorry for stupid question: Should I add pure crystallized citric acid or some kind of solution?

Chris Edward · Mar 25, 2018

@MikeGanja,
You would need to know the specific weight of chlorophyll, this way you could then spin the solution at the right speed and possibly under refrigeration until it separated and then siphon off the chlorophyll layer, which will leave you with either a mostly still combined THC/CBD layer or parts of a whole, which you will then have to figure out, like a puzzle....
To be honest, the better way is to use a separation flask, but then you would need to know what Chlorophyll is soluble in, but THC/CBD isn't and have access to . Then you add this wait for the chlorophyll to separate and then siphon it off.

Fadedawg · Mar 26, 2018

MikeGanja said:
Sorry for stupid question: Should I add pure crystallized citric acid or some kind of solution?

Crystals work

gb123 · Mar 28, 2018

If you freeze the IPA and freeze the herb and only wash it for three minutes.
..It will turn out more Gold to amber depending on how old the herb is.
Fresher the better. Fresh frozen.

No water soluble products like chlorophyll in your product this way.
Hope this helps.

Bublonichronic · Mar 29, 2018

Chris Edward said:
6 washes?
Ouch, but I understand, you work with what you have…
Next time try to keep it at around 2-3 washes, after that you're getting more and more chlorophyll and wax and less THC and CBD.

It may have better to do this in small batches, so the amount of solvent would be enough. Once it was washed and filtered twice, you could return it to the freezer for an hour before the next batch of “plant material”…

Solvents do have a limit to the amount of goodies they will hold on it, I am not sure what this is to be honest, it is defiantly solvent dependant.
Unless you put a pound through that liter, I highly doubt you got close to the threshold though.

As far as the green color, sure you can get rid of it, but not unless you have some lab equipment.
There’s a couple of ways you could do this, either using a separation flask or in a centrifuge.
Both are tedious and expensive and you would need to know exactly what you are doing or not only would you be wasting your time but money as well…
Don’t worry, over time the cholorphyll with turn olive green. As the solvent evaporates the oil will turn sort of an olive-drab green to doo-doo-brown anyway so unless someone shines a light on it and knows what they are looking for, they won’t notice…
You’re not going to get the bright amber yellows like the commercial oils, extracts, and shatters. That takes even more expensive lab equipment.

Proper winterization cannot be achieved in a home freezer, but you can get close and 99% of the time that's good enough.

Like you said, next time, freeze everything. The solvent, the “plant material”, the containers, everything. If you can put the solvent in a container that retains cold longer or do small batches, every little thing helps.

To be honest, I have had vape from the same strain, using a mix with as much chlorophyll kept out as possible and one where everything was mixed at room temp and to be honest, besides the one that was mixed at room temp looking like pine tar, if your vape pen, equipment, whatever is good (doesn’t taste like the coil) you probably won't notice the difference. Depending on your vape juice, you may notice it will be a little harsher on the throat, but nothing like a joint or a bong hit.

Just remember if you just smoked the “plant” material, you'd get the chlorophyll...

I hope this was helpful.

I like small batches, really easy to get good stuff...when I was makin solvent hash I would use a glass tube that held 1oz of bud and run 1 can of butane through it, beautiful goldish yellow or orangish red extract every time that wouldn’t require a freeze percipitation and when I would winterize practically nothing would get taken out anyway

cronict1 · Mar 29, 2018

Riiiiiight.....

So basically what your saying is, I have to citric acid my suspensions wait(how long) for it to go yellow then ..... reduce and re-suspend in a non-polar solvent such as... ...? then freeze it...?

basically the cheapest of these, is this list correct

NONPOLAR
Pentane
Cyclopentane
Hexane
Cyclohexane
Benzene
Toluene
Chloroform
Diethyl ether
Dichloromethane
POLAR
meths
ethanol
butanol
propanol
acetic acid
water?
isopropyl
formic acid

what about polar aprotic stuff? :/ cnfused...

wait wait wait... iso/ethanol wash, reduce, then re-dissolve into say hexane filter and .... reduce again?

ok so the reason i want yellowness is because certain ''experts'' only want to deal with yellow coloured/ semi clear, they will not even attempt to smoke this very dark green and even very dark yellow stuff they want it clear/semi clear or like whatisitcalled nowadays shatter dabs etc etc honey... they called this, what i see as shizletastic toffee, RSO?!

so what im trying to do and find out is how to you know get it from dark green to er clearer yellow kinda thing... its about respect

where im from gold toffee as its called is the shizzle but no-one knows anything here except what they've seen in amsterdamage so...

about this activated bleaching clay what sized particles to use? Are we sure it wont filter out what we wanna concentrate?

hold on a second i dissolved my stuff into iso and am thinking about reducing then redissolving into, hexane say... and the somehow the bad stuff will seperate if i leave it long enough? OR is this the wrong way around?

god so many questions...
guess i need to post pics soon...

guys thank you so much!!!

*runs home very quickly*

Reako · Mar 31, 2018

Charcoal powder/activated charcoal if using iso/ethyl alcohol. Check it out on YouTube. It's kind of crazy how well it works. Good luck...

cronict1 · Apr 1, 2018

Reako said:
Charcoal powder/activated charcoal if using iso/ethyl alcohol. Check it out on YouTube. It's kind of crazy how well it works. Good luck...

gentlemen, how to get rid of chlorophyll?

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