Growing in coconut moss stuff with hydroponic nutrients done every 2nd/3rd day or so and water every other day. The strain is G13 labs power skunk or generic skunk, it was the "free seeds" i got when i ordered some better stuff ages ago.
Hey dudes check out my balcony grow!
- Thread starter GaryOak
- Start date
darkdestruction420
Well-Known Member
nuteburn, thats what im seeing.
Could be nuteburn. I gave them heaps of nutes and I actually thought that so I am giving it a little break with only water so it can gather itself.
@ReelFiles Hope it's not that tall, I have only about another foot before people will be able to see it, so I'm going to have to tie it down.
@ReelFiles Hope it's not that tall, I have only about another foot before people will be able to see it, so I'm going to have to tie it down.
zongbongman24
Active Member
looks 2 wet , let them dry out a bit.
zongbongman24
Active Member
nice strans and a sweet set up.
ErroneousRex
Member
Coco coir really soaks up the water so your pot needs extra drainage. I wouldn't let it dry out though.
darkdestruction420
Well-Known Member
your gonna want to start lsting it now, some nice fim topping would be helpful too.
darkdestruction420
Well-Known Member
from the growfaq-
LST or bending technique
This is a good overview and basic intruction on how to achieve the LST technique/ 'bending for yield'
1)For the first week or 2 of growth, you leave the plant to grow until its 4 inches..
2)Then you step in and bend it over, making the meristematic( the top primary growing shoot) tip no longer the high point of the plant.. so the plant grows tips from the nodes, without needing to top the plant. Do this using a piece of wire wrapped around the stem and the other end, attach to the edge of your pot/ growing system. Pull ties are good also as you can slowly tighten down over a period of hours without any danger of breaking. The use of wire and paperclips .. is great, drilling some holes in my pots and hooking wire through is probably one of the easiest.
3) Once these branches have grown out a bit, you bend these ones over as well, and you continue on and on until ya got a nice even canopy..
4) Once these branches have grown out a bit, you bend these ones over as well, and you continue on and on until ya got a nice even canopy..
This is the basics of the technique, very easy and simple to do and hugely rewarding. Below you will find some extra tips from growers who have found this practice beneficiary.
1) Wait until the plant is a little bigger than 4" to start training. Not necessarily, though. It depends on how vigorous the plant is. Or more actually, how healthy and large the root system is. Once I'm sure it can handle the training, I begin.
2) Sometimes I will release some of the oldest tie downs (anchors) to let them catch up with the younger growth. Then, re-tie them later or just move the current anchor and/or release the pressure a little. I always release almost all of the tie down achors once the 'stretch' is over (about the last 3-4 weeks of flower) and by this time, the plants have taken on the new shape and won't revert back (but, I've left stem wires on too long and they get 'grown over' some times ... this can't be good).
3) Maintain an even canopy, that's one of the primary objectives.
4) I don't top at all because I have proven (to myself) that a topped plant will just grow more slowly than one that isn't topped (the cut plant has to heal and goes through shock for about a week).
5) I remove the anchors for the last few weeks of flower. By this time, the plants have adapted to their new form and shouldn't revert back. If they start too, it's still stretching and it could actually be a variety of factors causing this. Tie it back down and evaluate the overall health of the plant.
6) Training too young can uproot the plant because the root system isn't deep enough to sustain much more than a fan blowing on it (constantly).
7) Training too late into full flower can break stems because they become woody and considerably less pliable. An additional side-effect of hardened branches and stems is that pulling too hard on the top of the plant can tear the roots and shock the plant into producing ABA at the wrong time.
There is such a thing as over-training. Bending branches, repeatedly, can deplete a plant of its natural supplies of the auxin hormones (this isn't good [without biostimulants], trust me).
9) How early is too early? If the plant comes ripping out of the medium, it's too early.
10) How late is too late? If your branches snap when you bend them, it's too late (or you bent it too far).
11) Personally, I place considerably more attention on long days than nights. Putting them into flower at the right time (and vigor) is crucial to obtaining high speed (larger than average) yeilds. Timing (or patience) is very very important. Everything revolves around plant health, peak vigor, and the environment variables during the plant's long day photoperiod.
12) A) As veg relates to LST, I have the same basic steps I take with all plants that will make my life easier (in early veg). First, and most important, all clones have the same number of meristem to begin with. I count 3 internodes, 3 sun leaves (halved), and 3 inches of stem for a cutting. They root hydroponically in a bubbler and then I transplant them in 20z Solo cups or gallon jugs for a while (about 2 weeks) like natural, until they reach about 6" tall. No training during this time.
B) After they have recovered from the tp shock and have established a crown, then it's just a single 90 degree bend of the apic (look, and *carefully* anchor the least amount of meristem down by the apic) at the right degree (overlay an imaginry a circle, 2D). Bend them as the individual phenotype dictates, then re-arrange the buckets to form an even canopy.
13) Hormone accumulation. Phytochrome. Bigger plants have more of the good stuff, trust me. This means the same genotype can be finished faster, thus more flower cycles per year, yeilding higher yeilds for the same space and electrical consumption.
14) Keep temperatures consistant for days and nights. 75F is what I do, use a digital thermostat, program it properly, and your internodal spacing on the same plant will be considerably shorter. This results in more meristem (higher yeild), denser colas, and buds.
15) There is such a thing as over-training. Bending branches, repeatedly, can deplete a plant of its natural supplies of the auxin hormones (this isn't good [without biostimulants], trust me).
16) How early is too early? If the plant comes ripping out of the medium, it's too early.
17) How late is too late? If your branches snap when you bend them, it's too late (or you bent it too far).
1 Personally, I place considerably more attention on long days than nights. Putting them into flower at the right time (and vigor) is crucial to obtaining high speed (larger than average) yeilds. Timing (or patience) is very very important. Everything revolves around plant health, peak vigor, and the environment variables during the plant's long day photoperiod.
19) A) As veg relates to LST, I have the same basic steps I take with all plants that will make my life easier (in early veg). First, and most important, all clones have the same number of meristem to begin with. I count 3 internodes, 3 sun leaves (halved), and 3 inches of stem for a cutting. They root hydroponically in a bubbler and then I transplant them in 20z Solo cups or gallon jugs for a while (about 2 weeks) like natural, until they reach about 6" tall. No training during this time.
B) After they have recovered from the tp shock and have established a crown, then it's just a single 90 degree bend of the apic (look, and *carefully* anchor the least amount of meristem down by the apic) at the right degree (overlay an imaginry a circle, 2D). Bend them as the individual phenotype dictates, then re-arrange the buckets to form an even canopy.
20) Hormone accumulation. Phytochrome. Bigger plants have more of the good stuff, trust me. This means the same genotype can be finished faster, thus more flower cycles per year, yeilding higher yeilds for the same space and electrical consumption.
21)Keep temperatures consistant for days and nights. 75F is what I do, use a digital thermostat, program it properly, and your internodal spacing on the same plant will be considerably shorter. This results in more meristem (higher yeild), denser colas, and buds.
Healthy plants grow and mature faster.
Added on: Wednesday, May 2, 2007 Viewed: 8157 times
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I prefer to use it with the fim topping method for maximum branching and low height.
LST or bending technique
This is a good overview and basic intruction on how to achieve the LST technique/ 'bending for yield'
1)For the first week or 2 of growth, you leave the plant to grow until its 4 inches..
2)Then you step in and bend it over, making the meristematic( the top primary growing shoot) tip no longer the high point of the plant.. so the plant grows tips from the nodes, without needing to top the plant. Do this using a piece of wire wrapped around the stem and the other end, attach to the edge of your pot/ growing system. Pull ties are good also as you can slowly tighten down over a period of hours without any danger of breaking. The use of wire and paperclips .. is great, drilling some holes in my pots and hooking wire through is probably one of the easiest.
3) Once these branches have grown out a bit, you bend these ones over as well, and you continue on and on until ya got a nice even canopy..
4) Once these branches have grown out a bit, you bend these ones over as well, and you continue on and on until ya got a nice even canopy..
This is the basics of the technique, very easy and simple to do and hugely rewarding. Below you will find some extra tips from growers who have found this practice beneficiary.
1) Wait until the plant is a little bigger than 4" to start training. Not necessarily, though. It depends on how vigorous the plant is. Or more actually, how healthy and large the root system is. Once I'm sure it can handle the training, I begin.
2) Sometimes I will release some of the oldest tie downs (anchors) to let them catch up with the younger growth. Then, re-tie them later or just move the current anchor and/or release the pressure a little. I always release almost all of the tie down achors once the 'stretch' is over (about the last 3-4 weeks of flower) and by this time, the plants have taken on the new shape and won't revert back (but, I've left stem wires on too long and they get 'grown over' some times ... this can't be good).
3) Maintain an even canopy, that's one of the primary objectives.
4) I don't top at all because I have proven (to myself) that a topped plant will just grow more slowly than one that isn't topped (the cut plant has to heal and goes through shock for about a week).
5) I remove the anchors for the last few weeks of flower. By this time, the plants have adapted to their new form and shouldn't revert back. If they start too, it's still stretching and it could actually be a variety of factors causing this. Tie it back down and evaluate the overall health of the plant.
6) Training too young can uproot the plant because the root system isn't deep enough to sustain much more than a fan blowing on it (constantly).
7) Training too late into full flower can break stems because they become woody and considerably less pliable. An additional side-effect of hardened branches and stems is that pulling too hard on the top of the plant can tear the roots and shock the plant into producing ABA at the wrong time.
There is such a thing as over-training. Bending branches, repeatedly, can deplete a plant of its natural supplies of the auxin hormones (this isn't good [without biostimulants], trust me).9) How early is too early? If the plant comes ripping out of the medium, it's too early.
10) How late is too late? If your branches snap when you bend them, it's too late (or you bent it too far).
11) Personally, I place considerably more attention on long days than nights. Putting them into flower at the right time (and vigor) is crucial to obtaining high speed (larger than average) yeilds. Timing (or patience) is very very important. Everything revolves around plant health, peak vigor, and the environment variables during the plant's long day photoperiod.
12) A) As veg relates to LST, I have the same basic steps I take with all plants that will make my life easier (in early veg). First, and most important, all clones have the same number of meristem to begin with. I count 3 internodes, 3 sun leaves (halved), and 3 inches of stem for a cutting. They root hydroponically in a bubbler and then I transplant them in 20z Solo cups or gallon jugs for a while (about 2 weeks) like natural, until they reach about 6" tall. No training during this time.
B) After they have recovered from the tp shock and have established a crown, then it's just a single 90 degree bend of the apic (look, and *carefully* anchor the least amount of meristem down by the apic) at the right degree (overlay an imaginry a circle, 2D). Bend them as the individual phenotype dictates, then re-arrange the buckets to form an even canopy.
13) Hormone accumulation. Phytochrome. Bigger plants have more of the good stuff, trust me. This means the same genotype can be finished faster, thus more flower cycles per year, yeilding higher yeilds for the same space and electrical consumption.
14) Keep temperatures consistant for days and nights. 75F is what I do, use a digital thermostat, program it properly, and your internodal spacing on the same plant will be considerably shorter. This results in more meristem (higher yeild), denser colas, and buds.
15) There is such a thing as over-training. Bending branches, repeatedly, can deplete a plant of its natural supplies of the auxin hormones (this isn't good [without biostimulants], trust me).
16) How early is too early? If the plant comes ripping out of the medium, it's too early.
17) How late is too late? If your branches snap when you bend them, it's too late (or you bent it too far).
1
Personally, I place considerably more attention on long days than nights. Putting them into flower at the right time (and vigor) is crucial to obtaining high speed (larger than average) yeilds. Timing (or patience) is very very important. Everything revolves around plant health, peak vigor, and the environment variables during the plant's long day photoperiod.19) A) As veg relates to LST, I have the same basic steps I take with all plants that will make my life easier (in early veg). First, and most important, all clones have the same number of meristem to begin with. I count 3 internodes, 3 sun leaves (halved), and 3 inches of stem for a cutting. They root hydroponically in a bubbler and then I transplant them in 20z Solo cups or gallon jugs for a while (about 2 weeks) like natural, until they reach about 6" tall. No training during this time.
B) After they have recovered from the tp shock and have established a crown, then it's just a single 90 degree bend of the apic (look, and *carefully* anchor the least amount of meristem down by the apic) at the right degree (overlay an imaginry a circle, 2D). Bend them as the individual phenotype dictates, then re-arrange the buckets to form an even canopy.
20) Hormone accumulation. Phytochrome. Bigger plants have more of the good stuff, trust me. This means the same genotype can be finished faster, thus more flower cycles per year, yeilding higher yeilds for the same space and electrical consumption.
21)Keep temperatures consistant for days and nights. 75F is what I do, use a digital thermostat, program it properly, and your internodal spacing on the same plant will be considerably shorter. This results in more meristem (higher yeild), denser colas, and buds.
Healthy plants grow and mature faster.
Added on: Wednesday, May 2, 2007 Viewed: 8157 times
Comments
I prefer to use it with the fim topping method for maximum branching and low height.
darkdestruction420
Well-Known Member
even though you should of started the lst already its not too late, the part about at a week or 2 old and about 4 inches is just when you normally want to start if possible, not that its a must and cant be started a little late. i fim at 4 nodes high and then lst my new tops....again and again and again. lol. you cam have a plant with 50 or more main growth points/top colas easily if you do it like that. i dont really believe in overtraining being possible too btw, look at a scrog and every single colas has been trained to go into the holes in the screen.
Hey dudes. Got some progress report(s) for you! Pics too.
Photos are about a month after last post.
Gave them a break from nutrients for a week and flushed with water. Then re-introduced them to nutes about a week later.
There a photo of the nutrients im using. Using just recommended doses in water about 2-3 times a week and watering with water in between.
Topped it as you recommended.
Lsting it now as you recommended.
Enjoy the pics and let me know what you think.
Gary Oak
Photos are about a month after last post.
Gave them a break from nutrients for a week and flushed with water. Then re-introduced them to nutes about a week later.
There a photo of the nutrients im using. Using just recommended doses in water about 2-3 times a week and watering with water in between.
Topped it as you recommended.
Lsting it now as you recommended.
Enjoy the pics and let me know what you think.
Gary Oak
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darkdestruction420
Well-Known Member
the plants look alright, you might be watering a bit too much though. they look like sativas, tall and lanky.
Maj. Problem
Member
Just curious guys. How did you come to the following conclusions without knowing more about his grow?
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