Recent content by Skaumannen

Thanks for the replys, doing 2x24V strips in series is what i would prefer, i was just not sure if that would work out ok. What i have not really found out is what happens if i run say 5x clu1825 on one of the 350w drivers. It can output max 7,3A, will it then give 1/5 of the max amperage to...

Hello I got a few inventronics EBV-350S048SV and Hahga 300W 48v LED drivers for free that i would like to use for a flower light. I am comfortable soldering and making a DIY light, but i am having difficulties pairing LED's to drivers, and not the other way around. It will be used in a 3x3ft...

Even if the vero29 is not the hottest cob out now, you can mount thos really easily using thermal glue. I used thermal glue for two of my vero29 and pico ez-mate connectors. So that made it solder free, and i didn't need any drill or tapping tools. The downside here is that if you want to remove...

If i could afford it, i would have tried to get you to build me a lamp SDS. Your work is not DIY, it is custom design work, not just something off the shelf. Proffessional in every aspect.

The leds draw different amounts of voltage when they have different temperature. But the current stays the same throughout, that is why you want constant current drivers. So you do not need to do anything to the drivers to get them to deliver the right amount of voltage.

1750 is not a problem at all as long as you have a decent size heatsink. Stardustsailor had his at either 1950 or 2100 in one of his builds ("thinking of a new light" is the name of the thread).

The shipping is the reason that one might be worthwile for me. I alreadu have some artic alpine 11's running 4x cxa3070 z2, but i somehow managed to break two of them, so i will be replacing them with vero's, as they are cheaper. But with the tools i have available using two large heatsinks...

I found this heatsink on ebay http://www.ebay.com/itm/Large-Aluminium-Heat-Sink-Power-Amplifier-Power-Supply-Transistor-IC-FET-PA-/180790819341?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item2a17f8fa0d And i am wondering if it is large enough to use with 2x vero 29 or 2x cxa3070 @1400mA? I have some 120 or...

The kessil might also be worth a look. But both the hans and the a51 are quality lights.

For that space i think the led is to powerful. The best light/cost for that space imho would be to do some diy led's. Two CREE cxa3070 @ 1400 mA would put you at ~66w/sqft. In the LED forum the standard reccommendation is 30-50w/sqft. This would also run cooler than the mars hydro, so less need...

You need to run them in parallel. Then you add the amperes to get the total drawn from the psu. And if you have the heatsinks go for it, I just suggested active cooling because of cost...

I hang mine at a 25cm distance, but i have 4 @ 1400mA for 75x75cm. And when i have them closer i get some slight light burn.But you can try at 15-20, and if you get burn you can raise them higher. For passive cooling you need ALOT bigger heatsinks, and if you do not have a good place to get them...

I think the setup you have going for flower is pretty much perfect. It will give you a very efficient setup, and since you have two lights you can get a very even spread. I would not go with the 3590 because it is overall more expensive, the led's are more expensive and the drivers are more...

I have gotten some white tips on some of the top leaves on one of my two plants, and because i am a complete novice i am not sure if i am seeing early stages of nute burn, or if it is bleaching from the lights. So if someone here could be so kind to take a look and give me an expert opinion that...

30-50 W/square foot is the reccommended amount. So for 16sqft i would use a minimum of 10 cxa3070 @ 1400mA for a total of 520watts, or 32,5 watt/sqft. Other configurations are also possible, but i would personally not go above 1400mA unless you have dimmable drivers, and those are quite a bit...