Nizza's 3x 15 gallon feminized big bud vision seed grow

Nizza

Well-Known Member
thanks crazy named dude!

ok so i've decided to plant in 8-3L plants, and take 2 -4 out as they stretch

4 will be "soil hempy". These consist of re-used coco (has dead root in it :() mixed with perlite, up to the reservoir line, with the rest of the pot a 60% Coco+perlite+clay pebble to 40% black gold compost

the other 4 will be planted as regular soil plants. they will have 30% or so coco/perlite/clay pebble re-used mixture, with 70% black gold. This will give me a control to see if it's worth doing soil hempy's


I'm attempting a compost tea brew tonight, and will test it on the transplanted ones tomorrow
i posted what i put in it over at the ROLS thread https://www.rollitup.org/organics/636057-recycled-organic-living-soil-rols-191.html. I'll be using it tomorrow night
 

Nizza

Well-Known Member
update time~!!
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the amaryllis is about to bloom ! !
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[HR][/HR]Ok so my timer is now down to 16.5 hours on, i've been reducing the light cycle by 15 minutes a day. I started at an 18/6 so that means I've been doing it for 6 days now.
They saw a small 1/4 dose of dyna gro foliage pro last watering, and i plan to go "full strength" next watering, then back off and step off, and repeat. "full strength" is 1/4 TSP/gal, I might have to do more than that because the plants are so big, but my 1/4 tsp/gal is actually foliage pro thats watered down at a 1:1 ratio, meaning my dose is actually half of what i say if you're using non-diluted foliage pro.
I had to dilute it with a 1:1 ratio of warm water because i could hear undissolved minerals in the bottle, maybe it got frozen during shipping
I don't know if it made a difference but I don't have any problems with it
other additives are pro-tekt, cal-mag, and hopefully soon i'll get some carbo-load
i was thinking since using DG, blackstrap is out of the picture as far as carbs go, no microbes means no carb conversion for the plant, so it would probably cause problems
I might not even do a carbo-load.

Also, i'm thinking about dropping the light cycle faster because the middle plant is really stretching
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looking down the chamber, the light is close to the door right now, took the pics anyways. The HPS wasn't off on this pic

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a shot of the back end of the chamber over-view, the light is behind the camera shut off at the front of my chamber

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the front side over-view, instead of it being #1, #2, then #3 in the back, i switched the back plant to the front 3 days ago when i took clones so now its 3, 2 , 1
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I took some clones from them a few weeks back and transplanted into some local black gold mix. I don't know what they mixed into it for amendments, but i figure this run will give me a little grasp on what i'd like to mix in for amendments , if i decide to use the soil for an outdoor grow

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some pics of my DIY aerocloner, last time it took around a week to see roots, this time i'm hoping for 5 or so, i did less clones this time, and instead of cleaning scissors i sterilized a fresh razor.
I also didn't fill the reservoir as much, hoping it might increase the dissolved oxygen.
It's nice having a 27 gallon container cause i can put around 18 gallons in it, which will help battle heat in the summer

the potted clone is stunted , probably cause it's from a really late flowered plant. It's the same age as the big bud clones in the flower chamber that are in black gold, it just is a genetic that i wouldn't mind keeping, so i just put it in there, hoping it'll re-veg

would shutting the lights off for a day reset the plants clockwork and help force it to veg?
I'm not too worried about it cause a friend has a cut, but i figure it's not a big deal either way
 

Nizza

Well-Known Member
thanks mr.ed !
cool thats what it's under and it seems to be doing something lol

by the way, when using an aerocloner, does it really matter how far out the stem sticks, or would it be better for me to make them stick out as short as possible from the pucks?
I don't want them to dampen off or get stem rot, but i also wanted to make sure they're in the misting area
 

Nizza

Well-Known Member
i'm hoping they stretch up more soon, i will trim a little bit out of the left or right side ((maybe through the middle) so i can stick the watering can spout down there

i'm thinking about making a little extension for the spout
 

MrEDuck

Well-Known Member
Reddish stems can be the first sign of an N def but usually just indicate a leaf is mature and that the plant will eat it if needed.
 

Nizza

Well-Known Member
thats some shit right there, thanks mr. ED!! learn something new every day here...

makes much sense, all the lowest fans show red, and none of the lower branches
showing that the branches want to keep growing, and the fan leaves will give up the energy if needed

very insightful, thanks for the wisdom
 

Shwagbag

Well-Known Member
Reddish stems can be the first sign of an N def but usually just indicate a leaf is mature and that the plant will eat it if needed.
Could be, but if you don't see any leaf yellowing then I wouldn't worry too much about a N deficiency. I'd also be very careful not to go overboard with N at this point. It would be a shame to burn them and set them back at all at this stage, they look so nice right now.

I frequently get red stems when the plant needs absolutely nothing at all. Some of it is simply genetic or environmental, but definitely good advice to keep an eye on any deficiency that might be related.

Purple stems can also be an indicator of P deficiency as well so be careful if you're going to be proactive and try to correct an issue before you see sufficient evidence.

What are your day/night temps?

I think they're looking primo. Not much stretch which i think is a good thing for this setup. Maybe not necessarily for yield, but for trimming and quality for sure!
 

MrEDuck

Well-Known Member
I frequently get red stems when the plant needs absolutely nothing at all. Some of it is simply genetic or environmental, but definitely good advice to keep an eye on any deficiency that might be related.
As I said it is generally an indication that it is a mature leaf and IF there is an issue they are the first ones the plant loses.
IME P def comes from other stresses. Cannabis really doesn't need much P so if it's not getting enough it's probably a lockout issue.
 

Shwagbag

Well-Known Member
As I said it is generally an indication that it is a mature leaf and IF there is an issue they are the first ones the plant loses.
IME P def comes from other stresses. Cannabis really doesn't need much P so if it's not getting enough it's probably a lockout issue.
Agreed! Except that cannabis doesn't need much P. Its the primary nutrient consumed during flowering cycle. I presume you meant during vegetative stages.
 

MrEDuck

Well-Known Member
No I mean during it's entire lifespan. Flowering cannabis needs less N and more P than it does during veg relatively but it still needs more N than P. I'm basing this on what I've seen of tissue sample data for cannabis and flowering the same cuts with low N high P and high N low P and seeing healthier more potent plants with the low P diet. I would love to have a hydro setup and take res samples to analyze mineral uptake and use that information to design a complete food that was actually what the plants ate. Cannabis has very similar nutrient requirements to fruiting plants like tomatoes and peppers which do best with feeds that are around 3-1-4. The big difference is that cannabis will flower with a slight excess of N over K while most peppers and tomatoes prefer an excess of K for optimal fruiting response. Bloom products have a place as boosters but not base nutes IMO.
 

Shwagbag

Well-Known Member
No I mean during it's entire lifespan. Flowering cannabis needs less N and more P than it does during veg relatively but it still needs more N than P. I'm basing this on what I've seen of tissue sample data for cannabis and flowering the same cuts with low N high P and high N low P and seeing healthier more potent plants with the low P diet. I would love to have a hydro setup and take res samples to analyze mineral uptake and use that information to design a complete food that was actually what the plants ate. Cannabis has very similar nutrient requirements to fruiting plants like tomatoes and peppers which do best with feeds that are around 3-1-4. The big difference is that cannabis will flower with a slight excess of N over K while most peppers and tomatoes prefer an excess of K for optimal fruiting response. Bloom products have a place as boosters but not base nutes IMO.
I will agree that if there is a P deficiency its probably from PH drifting.

For synthetic nutes, I've always like JR Peters. I always used a combination of 20-20-20 and 10-30-20 depending where the plants were in the flowering cycle. I was always intrigued by Jacks Professional mum ratios which are 15-10-30 but I've never played with them. I wondered if a combination of 20-20-20 and 15-10-30 depending on cycle would be a nice combo.

It def seems that latest research trends are showing that K plays more of a role and P plays less of a role than previously thought. That's something I should keep in mind when I do my next soil mix!
 

MrEDuck

Well-Known Member
I've been running 20/20/20 straight through and doing great. I have a lot of friends running either the Citrus FeED or the Peat Lite which are 20/10/20s and other friends who run DG's foliage pro as a base straight through and that's 3-1-2. I tend to like long flowering sats and they do so much better high N low P. Losing all your mature fans at week 5 is ok when you have an 8 week strain but a 14 weeker will have problems...
 

Shwagbag

Well-Known Member
I've been running 20/20/20 straight through and doing great. I have a lot of friends running either the Citrus FeED or the Peat Lite which are 20/10/20s and other friends who run DG's foliage pro as a base straight through and that's 3-1-2. I tend to like long flowering sats and they do so much better high N low P. Losing all your mature fans at week 5 is ok when you have an 8 week strain but a 14 weeker will have problems...
Nice, are you running Jacks? I love it for the money. What do you think about the the 15-10-30 for mid to late flower? I wish it was available in the buckets like the other Classic blends. It seems it would have enough N for a long haul and a nice K kick for bulk and resin.
 

Nizza

Well-Known Member
allright guys, well i planned to feed them today anywho, and we'll see the reaction on the update

really good convo, it's good to talk about the red/purple fan leaf stems, I think it could be a day/night swing or possibly a PH issue, some day cycles stay cool, around 68, and then i turn on a space heater to get things around 75, so things are definately on the low side. As far as moisture stressing the pH drift, i think I may have been going a little to hasty on the waterings on the one with the most reddish stems, so maybe its a combination of the two .

some days are 78 or so but i always get the night temps to 65 ish , so it could be cause i'm on the lower side of average temperatures, i'll try to keep things a little warmer now

Also , i've notices outside when it gets cold, shaded foliage usually has the red stems.
i see all sides of the discussion, that it would sacrifice these less primo spots, for the up higher ones if needed; but they are still helping the plant produce.

hopefully this watering will make things blow up, they seem to have been going crazy since i've been dropping the light cycle 15 mins a days, great shit here everyone thanks for the shared wisdom!
 

Shwagbag

Well-Known Member
I don't think we were even discussing your plants bro just kinda hi-jacked lol. I think your plants are looking pretty much perfect and I wouldn't worry about a damn thing!

It sounds like you have a good grip for the cycle and they look great so keep up the good work.

It never hurts to keep your eyes open even if we're sometimes over-analyzing and guessing a little to remedy things. Just as long as the measures are not drastic, we usually can't hurt anything. Its when I'm not paying attention when I overlook something that I end up with a mite infestation or sick plants. :dunce: LOL

:bigjoint:
 
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