The Main-Lining Thread

wheezer

Well-Known Member
^^^whole lotta truth there....I know outside, when I really work my branches I can improve my yield by leaps and bounds. It does make a huge difference.
 

Lady.J

Well-Known Member
Update for the mainlined skunk. Today is Day 1 of flower for her. She's not entirely symmetrical but I'll get it better next time. Think she still looks good for my first time trying :smile:.








 

HapaHaole

Well-Known Member
Update for the mainlined skunk. Today is Day 1 of flower for her. She's not entirely symmetrical but I'll get it better next time. Think she still looks good for my first time trying :smile:.








LadyJ these look great!
I mean healthy and happy and all but the mainlining looks dayum good too. Great job!

Much to learn...

:peace:
 

Madjag

Member
Nugs,

Love the concept! You have made a difference for so many and so many to come...bravo.

Your 32 head vortex is a beauty. I note that many of the photos, like that one, are outdoors. Am I to believe that you started from seed outside and got to this level?

The light deprivation you mention in conjunction with the same beauty....do you drop it into 12/12 flower with a darkout tarp or setup?

Forgive my questions if you have covered the topic earlier. I read the basic first 5 pages or so. I have always been an outdoor grower and would love to adapt your method to my patio garden. I hope Main-Lining still applies.

Special thanks to TheBudologist on ICMag.com - he has pointed many readers there to your pages on RollItUp. A good thing.

Peace,

Madjag

Flowering Begins.jpg
 

nugbuckets

Well-Known Member
Nugs,

Love the concept! You have made a difference for so many and so many to come...bravo.

Your 32 head vortex is a beauty. I note that many of the photos, like that one, are outdoors. Am I to believe that you started from seed outside and got to this level?

The light deprivation you mention in conjunction with the same beauty....do you drop it into 12/12 flower with a darkout tarp or setup?

Forgive my questions if you have covered the topic earlier. I read the basic first 5 pages or so. I have always been an outdoor grower and would love to adapt your method to my patio garden. I hope Main-Lining still applies.

Special thanks to TheBudologist on ICMag.com - he has pointed many readers there to your pages on RollItUp. A good thing.

Peace,

Madjag

View attachment 2294968
thanks...the vortex was brought inside every night....modular dep scene!.....i have a couple mainlined plants i am running outdo to test my theories on....i will post some pics.....yeah, i have much to thank the Budologist for....mostly him grabbing Main-Lining by the horns, and having the faith to Main-Line all his trees....he will not regret it...and with that, will have lots of awesome material to publish!...Thanks Brother!
 

budman678

Well-Known Member
i have never topped a plant so much and in such a consistent/even manner? will it have any effect on the stretch the first two weeks (maybe 3) of flowering?

do you have thoughts on whether or not to keep the MH in the first two weeks of flowering to reduce stretch? should i start with hps from the get go?
 

nugbuckets

Well-Known Member
Budman...go right to HPS.....and and eight headed mainline will be approx 25 % shorter overall compared to a traditional eight head...because of the equal distribution!
 

WattSaver

Well-Known Member
Great thread Nugs!!!

I really like the excessive bondage, and who wouldn't. But what really peaked my interest was the total plant growth through 1 node. Now I can see plants from seed would work great, but with clones, do you still find that there is a difference in growth between the 2 sides??

I've got a couple of 2nd gen clones I'd like to mainline. #1 looks like a good candidate for this project, #2 has some nodal gap, will this one work??

#1 - top clone of the seed clone less than a month since cutting (Duc Foot) ML_Klone8-13 002riu.jpg I circled the node I was planning on building off of.

#2 - top clone of the seed clone less than a month since cutting (Unknown Hawaiian bagseed) this girl has already been topped just to slow down it's speedy growth.
ML2_8-14 003riu.jpg Can I use the circled node even with this nodal space?? ML2_8-14 002riu.jpg I topped above the node above the circled one, would I be better off using this node??

Thanks for spreading the info.
 

nugbuckets

Well-Known Member
Great thread Nugs!!!

I really like the excessive bondage, and who wouldn't. But what really peaked my interest was the total plant growth through 1 node. Now I can see plants from seed would work great, but with clones, do you still find that there is a difference in growth between the 2 sides??

I've got a couple of 2nd gen clones I'd like to mainline. #1 looks like a good candidate for this project, #2 has some nodal gap, will this one work??

#1 - top clone of the seed clone less than a month since cutting (Duc Foot) View attachment 2295674 I circled the node I was planning on building off of.

#2 - top clone of the seed clone less than a month since cutting (Unknown Hawaiian bagseed) this girl has already been topped just to slow down it's speedy growth.
View attachment 2295676 Can I use the circled node even with this nodal space?? View attachment 2295677 I topped above the node above the circled one, would I be better off using this node??

Thanks for spreading the info.
they all look good bro, with a clone...top near the tip where you have two nodes close together...then let those grow out a bit...those will be your two mains......that way you dictate the stretch, or lack there of, in the hub.
 

Madjag

Member
Hey Nugs,

Thanks for pointing out such a useful technique. You get the gold star!

Question: the central "Y" at the base of the plant stalk that is at the heart of this method - it looks nice and thick, calloused over from concentrating support there. In a hard rain, though, during heavy cola stage, it looks like it would be an ideal spot for a split due to the overweighted plant weight being essentially distributed into two equally heavy sides. I've had strong stalks split at the branch connection where the weight was distributed over into four or six "zones" of weight, let alone two. What's your experience? Do you live in a climate that has late harvest time storms so that you have tested it?

Perhaps the answer is to merely continue the metal rings of support as it grows larger, much like the 5-10 pound per plant kidz do. I will definitely use this technique next year. I have a small but intense patio with a lexan roof that provides most of the light from above rather than also the side light that hoop greenhouses supply. I can use every bit of roof space by training them this way to deliver a sea of equal-sized colas since the plants stretch and compete for this vertical light.

Peace, Madjag

Flowering Begins.jpg
 

budman678

Well-Known Member
Budman...go right to HPS.....and and eight headed mainline will be approx 25 % shorter overall compared to a traditional eight head...because of the equal distribution!
HPS is locked and loaded....lights will be flipping off tonight or tomorrow....i have the timer set up, i literally just need to FLIP the switch....they are all 11-12 inches
 

nugbuckets

Well-Known Member
Hey Nugs,

Thanks for pointing out such a useful technique. You get the gold star!

Question: the central "Y" at the base of the plant stalk that is at the heart of this method - it looks nice and thick, calloused over from concentrating support there. In a hard rain, though, during heavy cola stage, it looks like it would be an ideal spot for a split due to the overweighted plant weight being essentially distributed into two equally heavy sides. I've had strong stalks split at the branch connection where the weight was distributed over into four or six "zones" of weight, let alone two. What's your experience? Do you live in a climate that has late harvest time storms so that you have tested it?

Perhaps the answer is to merely continue the metal rings of support as it grows larger, much like the 5-10 pound per plant kidz do. I will definitely use this technique next year. I have a small but intense patio with a lexan roof that provides most of the light from above rather than also the side light that hoop greenhouses supply. I can use every bit of roof space by training them this way to deliver a sea of equal-sized colas since the plants stretch and compete for this vertical light.

Peace, Madjag

View attachment 2296204
Large MainLined outdoor plants must have support to prevent the trunk from splitting....all big plants should be supported no matter what......i used custom made "canopy rings"...they work very well.
brazilian 005.jpgbrazilian 004.jpg
 

geekmike

Well-Known Member
you ever look at the "Texas tomato cages" ?? they are a bit spendy but look very nice and very rigid.
 
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