spray for mold

Rob Roy

Well-Known Member
I've been pretty happy using a sulfur based spray, during veg only, as a powdery mildew control. Side benefit, bugs don't like it either.

Botrytis (bud rot) during flower, I've tried many things and lean mostly towards rosary beads these days. A healthy plant of the right strain and good weather / siting is helpful too.
 

xp0c

Well-Known Member
This should be good too.
Controls on vegetables:
Leaf spots, downy mildew, powdery mildew, damping off, leaf blight, rusts, bacterial spot, gray and white mold, early and late blights, black rot.
s-l1600 (1).jpg
 
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thumper60

Well-Known Member
Excel LG, Serenade and Actinovate are the methods I would recommend.

Using Eagle 20 is frowned upon. I don't think it hangs around as long as Avid or Floramite does, that stuff can hang around for a long long time, over 180 days but the myclobutanil can hang around for a while.

Here is something someone who had testing done posted, showed that after 180 days there was no sign of Eagle 20.


https://www.thcfarmer.com/threads/180-day-lab-test-of-avid-forbid-floramite-eagle-20.50151/
I have been wondering how long these pesticides stay in the plant and do they really show up when you get something lab tested...

Well 180 ish days ago I sprayed 7 Cuts with the Recommended dose of:

Forbid 4F
Avid
Floramite
Eagle 20

(No I didn't have mites or PM)

Not at the same time, but over the course of 2 weeks...

They Vegged for another 9-10 weeks, then on in the flower room they went..

Well last week after a few week cure it was time to get the samples tested...

I got them tested by Ca Testing Authority...

All 7 samples tested the same...

Avid 8ppm
Floramite 5ppm

Forbid and Eagle 20 free!
I was told by them that an acceptable amount is 1ppm for human consumption.



Now 180 days is a long time and I am not sure how long it actually stays. I don't recommend Eagle 20 unless as a last resort to save some rare genetics for later use.
every thing you listed does not work on active bud rot have tried them all.from what I have seen serenade sprayed late in flower spreads the rot.i have been growing outdoor in maine since the early 80s.nothing stops bud rot except peroxcide if raining for days at harvest time.
 

xp0c

Well-Known Member
every thing you listed does not work on active bud rot have tried them all.from what I have seen serenade sprayed late in flower spreads the rot.i have been growing outdoor in maine since the early 80s.nothing stops bud rot except peroxcide if raining for days at harvest time.
I know Bud Rot does not spread when using Actinovate, or Serenade. I used them too.
 

thumper60

Well-Known Member
I know Bud Rot does not spread when using Actinovate, or Serenade. I used them too.
if you say sooo.I have sprayed serenade right into spots of rot come back few days later whole bud rotted an spreading to next. I fight rot every yr huge problem here mid late sept very common to get 7-10 days of rain an fog.also not sure if you no that sunlight kills the goodies in serenade, say u spray in the evening the next day when sun comes out that serenade is dead an useless.it doesn't work on blackspot either as listed.
 

xp0c

Well-Known Member
Works fine for me. I used Natria Disease control, it's serenade renamed I guess. Pick the mold of, and spray that spot, and it doesn't come back. I get the same weather as you...I'm in Nova Scotia. It's best to spray up under the buds. The rot starts on those single big calyx things.


Serenade has protection against UV that slows down degrading from UV light.
 
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thumper60

Well-Known Member
yes because people don't know how to use it correctly...
I hear ya dumbass spraying down bud.we used it to control blackspot in veg .I think a lot more folks use it than want to admit it.an most of the crying about how bad it is comes from indoor growers that should never have to use it if setup proper.
 

thumper60

Well-Known Member
This outdoor grow is beside an apple tree that has a fungus that obviously transferred to the grow. I sprayed yesterday with Neem oil and seems to have gotten worse. Any advice would be very appreciated
looks like the start of black spot copper fungicide works very well if caught early.
 

Bourbon 2

Well-Known Member
I'm gonna try with a hydrogen peroxide (3%) foliage spray. I'll start with 6 tablespoons per gallon and increase to 8 then 12. I'll post new photos of the results :peace:
 

CanadianJim

Well-Known Member
This outdoor grow is beside an apple tree that has a fungus that obviously transferred to the grow. I sprayed yesterday with Neem oil and seems to have gotten worse. Any advice would be very appreciated
Some of those spots look like leaf hopper damage. They would also have carried any disease from the apple tree to your plants. H2O2 should take care of any fungus.
 
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