My brand new DIY Fixture.

[Airwalker16]

Hey everybody. I've been working on this light for the past 3 days and was able to utilize that light that I won a year or two ago and spread the red, blue and white Monos more effectively. Reusing the drivers was the only thing that really sucked. I wish I could have just bought new meanwell but I really wanted to keep this as low-budget as possible. I also am utilizing half of the far reds that I had on my old light which I'll still be using as well but you can see them on the rails in between the heatsink holder rails.

3 middle cobs up and down are 50w, outside 6 are on the 240-2100parallel 2 strings so like 37w each, and the PCBs are 24-36v @700MA so probably around 35w a piece.

Reused the male outlet as well for the cord along with the rocker switches. I can turn off the middle 50w cobs and PCBs independently as well as dim the outside 6 cobs but they're always on when plugged in.

 

[Rocket Soul]

Whats the dets on those cobs (vero?) And pcbs?

You mentioned (i think) you were looking for a way to unplugg all powercables between driver and ixture in one go, was it for this? Do you have a pic

 

[InTheValley]

Hey everybody. I've been working on this light for the past 3 days and was able to utilize that light that I won a year or two ago and spread the red, blue and white Monos more effectively. Reusing the drivers was the only thing that really sucked. I wish I could have just bought new meanwell but I really wanted to keep this as low-budget as possible. I also am utilizing half of the far reds that I had on my old light which I'll still be using as well but you can see them on the rails in between the heatsink holder rails.

3 middle cobs up and down are 50w, outside 6 are on the 240-2100parallel 2 strings so like 37w each, and the PCBs are 24-36v @700MA so probably around 35w a piece.

Reused the male outlet as well for the cord along with the rocker switches. I can turn off the middle 50w cobs and PCBs independently as well as dim the outside 6 cobs but they're always on when plugged in.

View attachment 4246038 View attachment 4246040 View attachment 4246041 View attachment 4246042

You get the GrowMau5 Award for the week, Nice job bro. looking forward to a grow under that beast.

 

[Airwalker16]

Whats the dets on those cobs (vero?) And pcbs?

You mentioned (i think) you were looking for a way to unplugg all powercables between driver and ixture in one go, was it for this? Do you have a pic

Ya, the G16 aviation connectors are pictured. The cobs are all CXB3070. CREE xpe whites and blues and Osram reds I think.

 

[Airwalker16]

Here's the completed build. Extra cross supports and eyelits to hang from and also be used as feet to keep everything up off the ground. Mainly the far reds. They were imposing problems that weren't there before when I just used the cross braces. That was enough. But now the eyelets do the job.

Also, here's a pic of the connectors everyone's so curious about. Haha

 

[Airwalker16]

And FINALLY hung and far reds installed. Can not even wait!!!
Also shown are the remnants of what once was the ecosunlite. I think its much better used now.

 

[HydroRed]

And FINALLY hung and far reds installed. Can not even wait!!!
Also shown are the remnants of what once was the ecosunlite. I think its much better used now. View attachment 4246917 View attachment 4246918 View attachment 4246919

The Eco burn out on you or just replacing the guts?

 

[Airwalker16]

The Eco burn out on you or just replacing the guts?

I USED everything from inside it except the fans for this new build.

 

[Airwalker16]

Now I need to do something with these sinks and the 6 fans it came with.

Thinking of mounting 2 on back of each and running 6 Vero's, 2 per heatsink, on a 320-2100. 54v versions. Get me 350ish watts I could place underneath the canopy lying across 2 buckets.

Or probably better, the 1ft Samsung's would fit perfectly in them. Probably could fit 4?

 

[Krytend]

Damn she's a beast nice job man ! I'm jealous lol.

 

[HydroRed]

I USED everything from inside it except the fans for this new build.

Ahh. I remember when you got it. I was wondering if there were issues/failure with it that swayed you to gut it for parts. Nice build.

 

[Airwalker16]

Ahh. I remember when you got it. I was wondering if there were issues/failure with it that swayed you to gut it for parts. Nice build.

Nothing besides the lights for a 3X3 and now it's a 5X4.

 

[Randomblame]

Now I need to do something with these sinks and the 6 fans it came with.

Thinking of mounting 2 on back of each and running 6 Vero's, 2 per heatsink, on a 320-2100. 54v versions. Get me 350ish watts I could place underneath the canopy lying across 2 buckets.

Or probably better, the 1ft Samsung's would fit perfectly in them. Probably could fit 4?
View attachment 4246948

What a nice and well build fixture!!! Great work, bro! I like the recycling approach and do the same. Hard to make money when only the rich ones gettin' richer, lol!

And for those heatsinks..
You could cover all the available area with 1ft. strips and could still run it passively cooled. Would be like a QB with slate heatsink and as long as you run them not too hard there is no need for a fan. H-influx or Bridgelux EBgen2 series at 1050mA should work fine. You could also use a few deep- and far-red diodes between the strips and still run them passive.

 

[ANC]

I'd give those heatsinks a nice lap. Just spray glue some sanding paper to a sheet of glass or mirror and sand away.

Then clean it up with heatsink cleaner like Arcticlean

 

[Airwalker16]

I'd give those heatsinks a nice lap. Just spray glue some sanding paper to a sheet of glass or mirror and sand away.

Then clean it up with heatsink cleaner like Arcticlean

They're already cleaned. The compound wiped right off.

 

[Airwalker16]

What a nice and well build fixture!!! Great work, bro! I like the recycling approach and do the same. Hard to make money when only the rich ones gettin' richer, lol!

And for those heatsinks..
You could cover all the available area with 1ft. strips and could still run it passively cooled. Would be like a QB with slate heatsink and as long as you run them not too hard there is no need for a fan. H-influx or Bridgelux EBgen2 series at 1050mA should work fine. You could also use a few deep- and far-red diodes between the strips and still run them passive.

Ya I think strips would work best. Just can't decide whether to use one driver likes 320 or 3 and strap each one onto the back of them so each sink is just plug and play. The 120's aren't very big.

 

[Randomblame]

Ya I think strips would work best. Just can't decide whether to use one driver likes 320 or 3 and strap each one onto the back of them so each sink is just plug and play. The 120's aren't very big.

Yuup! And you would have 3 autarc 150-165w fixtures with 3 HLG-120's which makes them more flexible to use. With different strains one often needs different hanging heights and thats the downside of such big fixtures like yours and mine. Much more LST work is needed to keep the canopy even. My next fixtures will be made for 2x 2' areas again and they will have daisy chain to run them on just one powercord. Its so much easier to hang the up compared to one big fixture.
Shit, man! I need a spirit level to align it, lol! Even if I count the clicks of my rope ratchets it don't stays even and I have to adjust it every time. That's a pita!

 

[Airwalker16]

Yuup! And you would have 3 autarc 150-165w fixtures with 3 HLG-120's which makes them more flexible to use. With different strains one often needs different hanging heights and thats the downside of such big fixtures like yours and mine. Much more LST work is needed to keep the canopy even. My next fixtures will be made for 2x 2' areas again and they will have daisy chain to run them on just one powercord. Its so much easier to hang the up compared to one big fixture.
Shit, man! I need a spirit level to align it, lol! Even if I count the clicks of my rope ratchets it don't stays even and I have to adjust it every time. That's a pita!

Can you link me all the 1' options I have?

 

[Randomblame]

There are a few 1footers which would work.
You can use
- Bridgelux EBgen2 series, 1ft., single row
- Bridgelux Vesta series, 1ft., double row, CRI90, tunable dual spectrum(2700+5000°k)
- Samsung F-series, 1ft., double row(LM561c)
- Samsung H-series, 1ft., single row(LM561c)
- Samsung Q-series, 1ft., single row(LM301b)
- Samsung H-influx series, 1ft., single and double rows available(LM301b)

They all should be available on digikey.com and Q- and H-influx are currently the most efficient strips. If you run H-influx at half current the diodes would get only ~60mA and in 3500°k this means already +200lm/w(195lm/w with 3000°k). From my POV S03(single row 44 diodes) or S04(double row, 64 diodes) are the most interesting.

 

[Airwalker16]

There are a few 1footers which would work.
You can use
- Bridgelux EBgen2 series, 1ft., single row
- Bridgelux Vesta series, 1ft., double row, CRI90, tunable dual spectrum(2700+5000°k)
- Samsung F-series, 1ft., double row(LM561c)
- Samsung H-series, 1ft., single row(LM561c)
- Samsung Q-series, 1ft., single row(LM301b)
- Samsung H-influx series, 1ft., single and double rows available(LM301b)

They all should be available on digikey.com and Q- and H-influx are currently the most efficient strips. If you run H-influx at half current the diodes would get only ~60mA and in 3500°k this means already +200lm/w(195lm/w with 3000°k). From my POV S03(single row 44 diodes) or S04(double row, 64 diodes) are the most interesting.

@Major Blazer said the doubles get too hot.