90% sure this Mg deficiency, but a second set of eyes would help please.

Ro0k

Member
Hi folks,

So I'm working on my second grow, and today I came home and looked in my tent and saw this:
IMG_20181107_191247.jpg
IMG_20181107_191213.jpg

That's... not good.

Setup:
  • 315w 3200k LEC sitting ~20" off the canopy (in-line with what the recommendation is)
  • 4 Dutch Passion Blueberry fem seeds (because I'm apparently a masochist)
  • 3 gallon smartpots
  • Cana coco coir
  • Canna coco nutrient schedule (light feeding)
  • No drain table, so I vacuum up the runoff
  • An every-other-day watering schedule, alternating nutrients and plain water to prevent salt build-up and hopefully prevent lockout.
  • I flipped to 12/12 on Oct 14th, so I'm in week 3.5 of flower (almost half-way there)
  • Temps have touched 32C a couple of times, but usually sit around 27C, with a low of 18-20C overnight
I pulled up my trusty notes and had a quick look-over:
  • Runoff is ~720 ppm, so it's not nutrient burn.
  • My nute schedule says it should be roughly 900 ppm at this point, so it's more-or-less bang-on as far as I can tell. Better to have too little than too much, according to the farmer side of my family.
  • Ph of the runoff is a bit high at 6.6, but I can't trust my pen, since I'm using a shitty ph pen which was allowed to dry out and hasn't been calibrated since May.
    • That's the next thing I need to fix. But since I'm running coco, and my first grow the ph was in balance, and I haven't changed anything, I'm going to go ahead and discount that for now, until I can get the pen calibrated and know for sure.
  • There was a half-hour power outage at some point in the last 3 days, which I wasn't home and/or was asleep for. I know, because I re-set my timers on Sunday for DST. I was worried that would stress the plant, but since it's already in flower, I'm hoping it didn't do too much damage.
So, there's nothing I can tell from my notes that's jumping out at me that could be causing the issue. A couple of possibilities, but nothing solid to work on. Everything seems to match my previous grow, and this plant seems to be healthier more or less (no hermies yet, either).

So, I consulted my handy dandy Rosenthal book. There's a whole section on nutrient deficiencies with pictures right alongside.

My first thought was the usual suspect: nitrogen deficiency. But this is a red herring, since my nutes have plenty of nitrogen, and lots of research has told me it's usually something else. Most importantly, the bottom leaves seem to be okay. My next thought was something to do with the coco coir itself. I know that the canna coco line doesn't have a lot of calcium or magnesium in the mix, since they expect you to get it out of your water pipes. So I pulled up the section on calcium and had a read.

"Large necrotic blotches of tan, dried tissue appear mostly on new growth but also on other plant parts along leaf edges. Young shoots crinkle and get a yellow or purple color... Necrosis appears along the lateral leaf margins."​

It could be that. But the necrosis is more uniform and not splotchy. The dead stuff seems to be starting at the edges and works its way in. And there's no yellow or purple color on the new shoots. So it's a possibility, but I wanted to dig further, so I hit up the Magnesium section.

"The deficiency starts in the lower leaves. The veins remain green while the rest of the leaf turns yellow, exhibiting chlorosis. The leaves eventually curl up, then die...."
That seems more like what I'm seeing, but then I read this part:

"As the deficiency continues it moves from lower leaves to the middle to upper half."​

That's not happening. The dying stuff is all on the top of the canopy, but the symptoms seem similar. Then I read this:

"The deficiency is quite apparent in the upper leaves. At the same time, the stems and petioles turn purple."
Boom:

IMG_20181107_193413.jpg

That sure looks purple to me!

I thought it was a characteristic of the strain, and I'd noticed it before, but didn't put two-and-two together until I saw the dying stuff.

As a last check, I double-checked my cal-mag dosage. Turns out I've been using the 'seedling' dose, like a dummy. So I whipped up a batch of nutrients, added the big-boy dose of cal-mag, and I'll see where I stand in a few days.

I tell you, folks, even if I'm wrong about this, I cannot recommend Rosenthal's book enough. It is a one-stop-shop for all your gardening and plant needs. If you do nothing else, buy this book.

I would, however, appreciate a second (or fifth or eighth) opinion. You reckon I've got this diagnosed properly?

IMG_20181107_203226.jpg
 

CannaCountry

Well-Known Member
I would lean away from it being an Mg issue, though if you think you've been shorting the plant of Mg because you were using a 'seedling dose', bump it up. I will point out a couple things; you said you don't give much credit to your pH pen...get one you can put some credit into, especially if you're growing coco; pH is important. More importantly, stop watering with plain water. Each time you do this you're goofing up your plant and its medium. If you're overly worried about 'salt' issues, run a diluted feed through the plant (like 25% mix), but never water with plain water. This is where I'd start if it were me.
 

Ro0k

Member
I would lean away from it being an Mg issue, though if you think you've been shorting the plant of Mg because you were using a 'seedling dose', bump it up. I will point out a couple things; you said you don't give much credit to your pH pen...get one you can put some credit into, especially if you're growing coco; pH is important. More importantly, stop watering with plain water. Each time you do this you're goofing up your plant and its medium. If you're overly worried about 'salt' issues, run a diluted feed through the plant (like 25% mix), but never water with plain water. This is where I'd start if it were me.
Thanks for this. I'll be taking care of the pen tonight, i just didn't have any distilled water handy for the calibration solution.

But if you don't think it's a cal or mag issue, what do you think it could be?
 

CannaCountry

Well-Known Member
Deficiencies are sometimes difficult to determine and frankly unless I know each and every detail of the grow, I'm just not clairvoyant enough to say for sure in my mind. However, there are some simple truths to what you're doing and if you'll follow them you'll be in pretty good shape and the plant will improve. pH in your type of grow is huge...your pH run off, while I'm not a proponent of checking this, should be closer to 5.8, all things being equal. With that being said, I would get a solid handle on your pH, your feed schedule ( should be daily), feed strength (the plant just passed or is about to pass its peak in terms of needs so you should feed appropriately) and be sure you know 'exactly' what makes up your nutrients. If they are in fact short on Ca and Mg, you'll need to make up for that, but keep in mind you're not long to cut them down, so don't think you're going to change the world by going crazy on adding this and that, so easy on whatever you decide. Don't let them dry out, and sure as the world, stop feeding with the plain water. That all by itself is going to make a huge improvement...you'll see. Good luck.
 

shawnery

Well-Known Member
Phosphorus deficiency which can cause other deficiencies considering you're in flower?

Potassium?
 
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JohnDee

Well-Known Member
But if you don't think it's a cal or mag issue, what do you think it could be?
Well certainly Ca and Mg are some part of the picture. With coco that's almost inevitable. Some people feed coco 5 or 6 times a day...but you were feeding every 4 days?

And your comment about your runoff ppm. That number is meaningless unless you compare it to what's going in. I've read that you shouldn't have more then 100 ppm rise compared to feed ppm.

You were destabilizing the coco cec with water and then the coco filled it's binding sites with the new feeding...a recipe for problems.
JD
 

polishpollack

Well-Known Member
it's not mg. I wish a good coco grower would come here and show people how it's done. coco seems to create a lot of trouble unless you really get it right.
 

Instape

Well-Known Member
Go to the Canna website,
runoff is not a reliable indicator,and plain water is guaranteed to destabilize the way the coco is
designed to work.

I had similar issues but after going to the "Horses mouth" (Canna) I "flushed" with 1/2 strength A+B
then fed the medium schedule, stopped cal/mag (I have hard water) and the plant recovered and
expressed herself perfectly till harvest.

Coco is a "system" no disrespect to people trying to help, but Canna made it and should be the first call for advice, IMO of course.
 

Roger A. Shrubber

Well-Known Member
Coco is a "system" no disrespect to people trying to help, but Canna made it and should be the first call for advice, IMO of course
Canna didn't invent coco...they may have made the stuff he's using, but it's been an industry in India and Sri Lanka for hundreds of years, and i'm pretty sure an Indian company was the first one to start marketing it as a growth medium. Canna is a large company, and are not really interested in taking a direct hand in helping their customers...they may have a help line, but i'll bet you a brand new dollar that if anyone working on it has ever grown weed, its a 100% coincidence, and they're looking at a chart, just like you are, and reading scripted responses to your questions, provided in advance by the companies researchers and lawyers.....
 

Instape

Well-Known Member
I was referring to the technical papers on their site that detail the processes happening
in the medium throughout the first and subsequent uses, moisture levels for optimum oxygen uptake etc.

Canna are in the business of getting plants- whatever type- to perform to commercial repeatable standards.

Cannabis is not some mystery plant and an few hours reading will negate
having to "weed" out the knowledgeable advice from the Bro. scientists.

I apologize for implying Canna thought of Coco as a medium first,

but their products- media/nutrient are designed as a system,Coco is not an inert media.
and needs to be understood to get the best result.
 
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Strudelheim

Well-Known Member
I don't grow in coco myself, but from everything Ive seen coco does best with many waterings a day. Some do 6 a day, and probably around 500 to 700 ppm every feeding always the same. The idea being that it doesn't dry which causes sault buildup that doesn't flush away as easily with the next watering. I incorporate a similar idea with pro mix as its also soiless, I don't let it go dry.
 

Instape

Well-Known Member
Why keep guessing?

From http://www.canna-uk.com/using_canna_coco

If you think Canna don't know their business I'm sure other manufacturers have similar resources,

"Less growth due to water saturation


CANNA’s COCO is made up of thousands of capillary micro-sponges that retain almost 1000 % of their own weight in water. Therefore coco retains an enormous buffer of water and nutrients. It is recommended that the grower keeps the medium a bit dry rather than soaking wet. Wet circumstances form an ideal basis for fungal diseases like Pythium. A drier substrate passes more air through to the roots stimulating them to absorb water and nutrients more actively. This results in a faster growth and higher yields.

Another important instrument is timing. Once the coco has become too wet, reduce or pause watering until the coco has dried out and then start normal watering again. Check the moisture content of the coco by hand or by determining its weight by lifting the pot or slab. A rule of thumb for watering fully-grown plants is 4 to 6 litres per m2 a day. By decreasing the dripping frequency and by increasing the amount of nutrients per watering, the best use is made of available water and nutrients. This will also improve drainage.

The frequency of watering depends on the evaporation and the water supply in the coco. A common rule is that one daily watering is sufficient during the first few weeks under normal circumstances; then increase up to 2 times a day; 2 hours after the lamps have been turned on and 2 hours before they are switched off again. Please keep in mind, smaller root volumes per plant (small pots or many plants per slab) will make coco dry out quickly. Therefore it is critical to water these plants more often."

Every other aspect of the science behind growing in Coco is available.

By following the guidelines I have obtained great results even with very hard water and no EC meter.

I don't want to diss the tons of help full advice on here,
just point to an - IMO- impeccable source so we can give the plant we love the environment and nutrition
to do it's job.

Good luck whatever.
 

Instape

Well-Known Member
You have much to learn about Coco..

I didn't mean to imply otherwise,
but my education on this topic will be from trusted sources,
i love this and other open forums for practical information,
but when an expert is available that is who I will go to.

Furthermore by following the principles outlined by the developers of the medium and nutrient,
along with 50 years of general garden/greenhouse growing experience,
I solved all the apparent problems*
and my S.seeds Creme mandarine XL was happy and gave me a nice crop.

I am not pretending to be a "Master grower" LOL,
the cannabis plant alone could furnish a 100 lifetimes study.

There is great knowledge on the boards,
also great B.S.

Please feel free to critique my source materiel,

http://www.canna-uk.com/ or .com for US

Not trying to piss anyone off but the definitive info is available for a click and a few hours reading.

:bigjoint:




*problems I have witnessed rehearsed in a million posts over the
years.
 

Jypsy Dog

Well-Known Member
I didn't mean to imply otherwise,
but my education on this topic will be from trusted sources,
i love this and other open forums for practical information,
but when an expert is available that is who I will go to.

Furthermore by following the principles outlined by the developers of the medium and nutrient,
along with 50 years of general garden/greenhouse growing experience,
I solved all the apparent problems*
and my S.seeds Creme mandarine XL was happy and gave me a nice crop.

I am not pretending to be a "Master grower" LOL,
the cannabis plant alone could furnish a 100 lifetimes study.

There is great knowledge on the boards,
also great B.S.

Please feel free to critique my source materiel,

http://www.canna-uk.com/ or .com for US

Not trying to piss anyone off but the definitive info is available for a click and a few hours reading.

:bigjoint:




*problems I have witnessed rehearsed in a million posts over the
years.
You and your website should be very happy together... But it only works if you buy ONLY THERE PRODUTS!!!! Good luck dud.
 

polishpollack

Well-Known Member
No offense to anyone and this is based only on what I read in forums like this, but it's become my opinion based on those reading that coco might be the most difficult medium to use. It has no nutrients (unlike many potting soils), yet hold water like crazy. I don't know where the balance is to make it work as a medium. So I can only guess that it's purpose to is to do exactly what I wrote - to hold water for a long time yet give the grower complete control over what nutrients surround the roots. I guess this is the reason why so many say you should treat coco like a hydro grow. The problem is, root need oxygen too and to do that with coco or soil is to let the medium dry out some before you water. But when it's dry does this mean that the nutrients become less available? I'll stick with DWC. At least I know I can't screw that up. Perhaps a hybrid grow would be good, using coco to at the top to support roots right below the plant like rockwool, then DWC down below with air pump. An interesting idea.
 
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