Guerrilla Guide

Bestg4202

Well-Known Member
Hello everyone. Im intrigued by the idea of a guerrilla grow come spring and Im hoping someone can help me with a question. Where I live there are a lot of springs with no surface water but if you dig a little there's water just below the surface. I'm just wondering if it's possible to complete a grow with little or no actual watering by me. Specifically I mean can you plant your plants in such a way as that the roots will be able to reach underground water and survive off of that? It seems to make sense to me but maybe I'm just trippin. Lol
If it is possible any insight into how deep below the surface the water should be for optimal results would be much appreciated. I was thinking I'd dig some test holes to see how deep the water was and then pick a spot where the water was about 1 ft below surface. I figure that way the roots could spread out horizontally as much as they like and pull water up from the bottom as they need it.
 

Lucky Luke

Well-Known Member
Hello everyone. Im intrigued by the idea of a guerrilla grow come spring and Im hoping someone can help me with a question. Where I live there are a lot of springs with no surface water but if you dig a little there's water just below the surface. I'm just wondering if it's possible to complete a grow with little or no actual watering by me. Specifically I mean can you plant your plants in such a way as that the roots will be able to reach underground water and survive off of that? It seems to make sense to me but maybe I'm just trippin. Lol
If it is possible any insight into how deep below the surface the water should be for optimal results would be much appreciated. I was thinking I'd dig some test holes to see how deep the water was and then pick a spot where the water was about 1 ft below surface. I figure that way the roots could spread out horizontally as much as they like and pull water up from the bottom as they need it.
will work perfectly.
 

Bestg4202

Well-Known Member
will work perfectly.
Sweet!
Do you have any recommendations on depth?
Also I was gonna use some of my own homemade organic super soil for them and do you think it'd be better to have the super soil above the water level or below? Or both maybe? The reason I ask is because it seems that it would be difficult for the roots to absorb the proper nutrients when planted in this way. Because there won't be any water mixing with the majority of the root mass...although I'm not certain it would matter but I guess that's why I'm asking. Haha.
One idea I had was to dig the hole a ways down below the water level and then using a mesh fabric, or even something like the smart pot material, line the hole with it and then fill it with the soil. Just not positive if it would be more functional to use the super soil for the top "dry" half or the bottom "wet" half or just the whole thing.
Also the spots I'm thinking doing this are not an easy hike to get to, and the less soil I need to bring the better.
 

Lucky Luke

Well-Known Member
Sweet!
Do you have any recommendations on depth?
Also I was gonna use some of my own homemade organic super soil for them and do you think it'd be better to have the super soil above the water level or below? Or both maybe? The reason I ask is because it seems that it would be difficult for the roots to absorb the proper nutrients when planted in this way. Because there won't be any water mixing with the majority of the root mass...although I'm not certain it would matter but I guess that's why I'm asking. Haha.
One idea I had was to dig the hole a ways down below the water level and then using a mesh fabric, or even something like the smart pot material, line the hole with it and then fill it with the soil. Just not positive if it would be more functional to use the super soil for the top "dry" half or the bottom "wet" half or just the whole thing.
Also the spots I'm thinking doing this are not an easy hike to get to, and the less soil I need to bring the better.
There some guys who grow on floating matts in swamps who may be better for advice on depth or even the SIP growers. You do want the top 2 to 5 inches dry dry id surgest.
 

Budley Doright

Well-Known Member
I use to grow on mounds in swamps and do not dig down, placing the plant on top in grow bags. After about 3 weeks I cut the bag and let the roots go directly into the ground but still need to tend to them. You may want to try wicking the water up by using a rope that actually goes directly into the spring and not the roots (SIP). It is my experience that a plant left to itself turns out poorly and the more care the better yields. I have tried planting on floating marsh and did not have any luck but it was only one attempt, not sure if the plant would get enough nutrients in that situation. If it was me I would try a few different ways and see which does the best, but as cool as it would be to plant them and return in the fall to harvest a big plant, it's never worked for me lol.
 

NoTillPhil

Well-Known Member
I haven't read this entire thread but have some tips to avoid detection. Apologies if they have been mentioned already.

Tying craft/hobby store imitation flowers on branches will help disguise the plants from any longer distances. Choppers aren't likely to take a closer look if they see actual flowers on the greenery.

Once you have found what seems to be a suitable plot location leave money on ground as if it were dropped. Nobody leaves money on the ground !! If anyone has been through the plot the money will be gone. Dollar bills are suitable, just rig so wind doesn't blow them away. Obviously this is best done with plenty of time before planting. I suggest finding plots during harvest time. What seems thick and green in the spring may look quite different come fall.

If I don't have to crawl to get into a spot I usually pass it up. I look for impenetrable thickets then crawl in on a deer path. Once I think I'm in far enough I'll bust out a hole with a saw and shovel. On my way out I drop a couple dollars, trying my best to make them look inconspicuous, like a random wind blown dollar caught in the brush or leaves on the ground.

I'll add more if anything comes to mind.
 
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Budley Doright

Well-Known Member
I haven't read this entire thread but have some tips to avoid detection. Apologies if they have been mentioned already.

Trying craft/hobby store imitation flowers on branches will help disguise the plants from any longer distances. Choppers aren't likely to take a closer look if they see actual flowers on the greenery.

Once you have found what seems to be a suitable plot location leave money on ground as if it were dropped. Nobody leaves money on the ground !! If anyone has been through the plot the money will be gone. Dollar bills are suitable, just rig so wind doesn't blow them away. Obviously this is best done with plenty of time before planting. I suggest finding plots during harvest time. What seems thick and green in the spring may look quite different come fall.

If I don't have to crawl to get into a spot I usually pass it up. I look for impenetrable thickets then crawl in on a deer path. Once I think I'm in far enough I'll bust out a hole with a saw and shovel. On my way out I drop a couple dollars, trying my best to make them look inconspicuous, like a random wind blown dollar caught in the brush or leaves on the ground.

I'll add more if anything comes to mind.
So you dig a tunnel through the briars :o. That my man is dedication lol. I thought my taking a boat into a bug and snake infested swamp was work but dragging all your shit through a tunnel of thorns ... you win lol.
 

NoTillPhil

Well-Known Member
So you dig a tunnel through the briars :o. That my man is dedication lol. I thought my taking a boat into a bug and snake infested swamp was work but dragging all your shit through a tunnel of thorns ... you win lol.
One year I combined our ideas. A partner and I ran a canoe for a few miles in both directions from launching location. Basically we crawled in every honeysuckle and thorn patch along the way and busted out a hole to work in. Deer fence, stakes, amendments including two big bags of perlite were brought in to each one. IIRC it was seven total spots that year. Definitely remember losing most of it to mold. UHG.....

On the bright side....... I'm all legal eagle in Colorado now. Six plant rule and all.... I'll be going for monsters in the backyard for first time ever this upcoming season. I've been working on the soil in previous owners vegetable garden. Good worm count but pretty compact from years of not being used and walked on. Fingers crossed.
 

Budley Doright

Well-Known Member
I'm to old to bother with the extreme growing but the swamp thing was actually quite easy re water and easy access, did get a tad mucky at season end due to water levels but the beaver channels made for great access to each patch, last solo run was 50, biggest the crew did was around 500 in fields.
 

Budley Doright

Well-Known Member
So their outdoors and you have a light on them? Are they in a greenhouse? And no I have no clue other than cover them. And u say it's now snowing lots, that can't be good :(.
 
So their outdoors and you have a light on them? Are they in a greenhouse? And no I have no clue other than cover them. And u say it's now snowing lots, that can't be good :(.
Oh,really?it is in a corner of my room, a heater will be must needed to keep the warmer temperature,thank for your recommend.She is so sensitive to it.
it is not easy, I should study more experience of powerful growers.:eyesmoke:
 

Budley Doright

Well-Known Member
So your indoors then...ok. Well yes you may need a heater then. Outdoor weather should have no effect on indoor environment other than controlling excess heat with ventilation. IME I pray for cool weather to keep the room cool lol. But yup I need heat in the depth of winter to maintain light off temps.
 
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