ARMY_OF_ONE_92Y
Active Member
I hear what your saying man and I'm trying to get everything done ASAP.
18 gallon DWC
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ARMY_OF_ONE_92Y
Active Member
Well AIRWALKER called it.... Restart !!!
Clones have been SLIMED !!! They are slowly suffocating so I'm pulling the plug.
I'll try the chlorine way... If all else fails then i guess I'll get my hands dirty and go the old fashioned way. SOIL
*If at first you don't successed... You know the rest
Clones have been SLIMED !!! They are slowly suffocating so I'm pulling the plug.
I'll try the chlorine way... If all else fails then i guess I'll get my hands dirty and go the old fashioned way. SOIL
*If at first you don't successed... You know the rest
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ARMY_OF_ONE_92Y
Active Member
Yeah it sucks but I learned a few things along the way now I'm starting seeds up and hopefully in a week or so I'll be back in action
firsttimeARE
Well-Known Member
Looks good @Yesdog
You should think about a spray cloner. I use it for starting seeds and clones. It is so much easier than RW and can be made for like $35 with 1/2" cpvc fittings and piping, 360 and 180 degree sprayers, a bucket and seal tight lid like home depot or lowes (i prefer the blue lowes, like 1/3 the price of hydro store black buckets), 2" netcups and 1/4" thick 2" neoprene collars and a cheap pump.
Near 100% clone success rate. Seeds work out quite well. No time wasted letting them fill in the rockwool. You just germinate the seeds prior so the tap root can stick thru the 1/4" neoprene collars and then you put that in the lid that you drilled holes into to seat the netpots into. I leave the seed side up sitting on the other side so it knows where the light is and can grow up.
You should think about a spray cloner. I use it for starting seeds and clones. It is so much easier than RW and can be made for like $35 with 1/2" cpvc fittings and piping, 360 and 180 degree sprayers, a bucket and seal tight lid like home depot or lowes (i prefer the blue lowes, like 1/3 the price of hydro store black buckets), 2" netcups and 1/4" thick 2" neoprene collars and a cheap pump.
Near 100% clone success rate. Seeds work out quite well. No time wasted letting them fill in the rockwool. You just germinate the seeds prior so the tap root can stick thru the 1/4" neoprene collars and then you put that in the lid that you drilled holes into to seat the netpots into. I leave the seed side up sitting on the other side so it knows where the light is and can grow up.
Yesdog
Well-Known Member
Thanks! Huh, didn't know you could do that with germing seeds, sounds legit. This batch took almost 8 days to germinate in the rw and spread leaves, and i ended up losing two. Wanted to build a cloner anyways- was planning on keeping some stunted clones (or a series) going over the winter. My grow area is semi-outdoors so it might be a good idea to keep some spares incase of winter related disasters.
firsttimeARE
Well-Known Member
Takes a day or two for the plant to sprout up. Nice sized plant after 30 days. Perfect for an indoor flip. I only have room,to,flip every 60 days so I end up with trees in flower.
Olympus Mons
Well-Known Member
You are going to get root rot (cyanobacteria) in your res unless you use beneficial bacteria to eat it up. Just trust me on this one. Hydrogen peroxide is old school. It's bad for your rootzone in the same way it's bad to use it as mouthwash. It kills EVERYTHING including beneficial microbes. NEVER use organic anything in your res (except the beneficial bacteria tea). If FloraNova is organic, don't use it. No Hygrozyme, Biocozyme or any of that shit. You want sterile nutrients like regular old General Hydroponics, Advanced Nutrients (three part), House and Garden etc. GH works just fine with the Lucas Formula. At this point you might be able to save your grow but it's on the edge of disaster. I would soak them for a night in some diluted Physan-20 to kill the slime and while you're doing that brew some compost tea. There is a thread on RIU that explains how the compost tea works.
https://www.rollitup.org/t/dwc-root-slime-cure-aka-how-to-breed-beneficial-microbes.361430/page-2
But I also put together a quick guide over at MMMA. Just follow the instructions. I have been doing DWC for years and this is the only way I've been able to keep a perfectly clean res and white roots. Plus your plants will better absorb nutrients.
http://michiganmedicalmarijuana.org/topic/38275-tutorial-kill-hydro-slime-w-compost-tea/
https://www.rollitup.org/t/dwc-root-slime-cure-aka-how-to-breed-beneficial-microbes.361430/page-2
But I also put together a quick guide over at MMMA. Just follow the instructions. I have been doing DWC for years and this is the only way I've been able to keep a perfectly clean res and white roots. Plus your plants will better absorb nutrients.
http://michiganmedicalmarijuana.org/topic/38275-tutorial-kill-hydro-slime-w-compost-tea/
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Yesdog
Well-Known Member
I just can't bring myself to run sterile. The tea has been working GREAT for me so far on this new grow, and I'm supplementing with a root-zone inoculant made of the tea, and some straight great white. The tea is great for brewing beneficial bacteria, but it apparently kills most Myc sources. So tea goes in the rez (where bacteria can live just fine), and the great white goes straight to the root zone (I use *some* great white in the tea for the bacteria, but also use some directly to preserve the mycs).
Also, if you want to use organics of any kind- use them in the tea, and make sure they're microbe friendly (most are, no point in organics if it kills microbes). The tea itself includes straight sugar which is one of the most hazardous things to your rez, but by brewing it with the tea you're making sure that any organics that make it to the rez are accompanied by BILLIONS of bennies, you're making sure they're the ones that use the organics most.
I used floralicious+ in my last grow, which im 90% certain brought me to root rot. I was using only hydroguard at the time. Now I use the F+ in the tea, and after a tea/inoculant treatment, the next day my rez smells like a beautiful mushroom garden growing on the forest floor. Every day after, the rez smells less like sugar/kelp and more like mushrooms (the right things are eating the organics).
F+ (kelp + humics) also contains a ton of stuff that is GREAT for microbes, and is only useful to plants after being digested by micros (plants cant use kelp directly). The additional humic acid also helps chelate the microbe 'waste' and makes it more available to the plant, while also benefitting the microbes directly. This kind of tea is probably the closest to 'liquid dirt' you can get. kelp/humics are popular for normal compost teas, and provide a rich (and more stable) microbial life while being rich in chelated nutrients and plant hormones (from the kelp). The extra humic chelation can apparently more regulate nutrient uptake by almost 'buffering' the nutrient concentrations and can make immobile nutrients more mobile (this is mostly fulvics tho) and help prevent lockout by basically 'stashing' some of your metal ions for later use.
Humics themselves in raw form (diamond nectar) can actually also be a food source on their own for microbes, so adding any humics to your rez solo is putting you at danger for infection. Humics also arent as effective (maybe not at all?) in a sterile rez. The point of a sterile rez is to keep your ORP (oxidization/reduction potential) high. Oxidizers are great at destroying organic material, including humics. The roots can only survive because of the thick non-organic cell walls, but the ORP can interfere with sugar production in high amounts. It is absolutely insane that GH recommends using any organics in hydroponics as it requires bennies, or a sterile rez to keep uninfected (and a sterile rez just destroys the organics anyways).
It's definitely more of an experiment currently, but I figure if you can brew sugar via tea and add it to the rez just fine, then that's the place/time for your other organics. I think the real danger is adding organics to your rez when it's 'sick', or otherwise not chock-full of bennies. Then you provide the foothold needed for explosive pathogen growth. With the tea, you're adding a guaranteed massive concentration of bennies, plus organic matter that has mostly already been stripped of the sugars, leaving more complex organics that won't as easily give pathogens an advantage.
EDIT: hah, unless you leave your water chlorinated when making tea.... then you're just adding sugar and you're f*d lol
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Yesdog
Well-Known Member
erm, cant find the original source on humic oxidization, but this one shows you lose about 70% under 'mild' oxidization (http://digital.csic.es/bitstream/10261/58645/4/Persulfate oxidation of humic acids extracted from three different soils.pdf)
firsttimeARE
Well-Known Member
Doing nothing but keeping water cold and oxygenated does it for me.
Must be lucky. Never root rot in 4 years of DWC.
Must be lucky. Never root rot in 4 years of DWC.
Yesdog
Well-Known Member
One day when I get temps truly under control, I can hopefully get there.
firsttimeARE
Well-Known Member
Keep the res dark. 62-66F. Change out conpletely every week and,youre there.
My roots are pearly white in the winter. Should be starting up my grow again in late November. Just waiting on my med card renew
ARMY_OF_ONE_92Y
Active Member
i finally landed myself a job... hopefully I can start a new crop soon. I was able to get a vortex fan for better heat extraction. I took off my closet door and replaced it with blackout curtains. The fan has successfully created a negative effect in the room. The curtains are bring sucked into the closet instead of being pushed out. The fall is on its way so the extra heat from the summer won't be a problem anymore and now I can just leave my window open to pull in the cold air @ night. I'm currently leaving my lights on with the fan to gauge temps hopefully I can keep it under 78 and I'll add a little fan in the doorway to push in colder fresh air into the closet. I was thinking of using the vortex to pull cold air from the window into the closet but I'm afraid of it pushing the heat from the HPS back into the closet and creating a positive effect. I'll try both ways and see which is best. My light times are 6pm - 12pm which helps with the daytime heat. Other then that I'm gonna do a CHLORINE REZ because I fucking hate the fact that my girls suffered a horrible ROOT ROT DEATH. So fuck the organics IM GOING STERILE 1000%. I'm also thinking of going old school and use SOIL which my buddies from humbolt would gladly help me out with the dirt grow. I don't want to completely give up my DWC because I was doing great until the Rez temps started going haywire. My next $1,000,000 investment is a WATER COOLER and I should be in the zone for a perfect rebound. Thanks everyone for the QUALITY INFORMATION & being here for me on my ventures to get dialed into cloud 9.
ARMY_OF_ONE_92Y
Active Member
Here are ALL MY NUTRIENTS
ARMY_OF_ONE_92Y
Active Member
I'm gonna pick up the GH TRIO synthetics plus chlorine so I don't have to use organics and if I do use organics I'm still going to use the HTH pool shock chlorine. Once I get my water chiller then I mite not use anything else but until then I'll work with what I have and go the chlorine sterile Rez treatment.
ARMY_OF_ONE_92Y
Active Member
Shout out to everyone who has helped along the way, I truly appreciate it. I also learned a lot throughout the first attempt and will not be making the same mistakes again.
Check with your nute company to see if it is safe to use with copper or not and if not then for water chillers get one that is "reef safe" (no copper), check into used aquarium equipment etc you should be able to find one pretty cheap.. you could always make one if you enjoy DIY
^ Been saying this since day one. why add all these chemicals that do nothing when you can dose with tea and run full synthetic. never worried about temps or WATER CHILLERS?? LOL.