Transforming shitty Mars to ass-kicking LED

[Rahz]

The heat output would be better than the original. Most of the lamps heat was coming from the LEDs so temps will change if it's running the CXBs. I don't think it's a bad project as far as that goes.

If you wanted to use Vero or a 36v Cree option, replacing the drivers would be an option. If you were partial to the 3590s, go ahead and build it. Each cob will have it's own driver so if you do end up having to replace the drivers at some point you wouldn't have any down time, or you could put in the extra $ and use 3590s with a fresh driver.

If the lamp is old I would probably replace the fans too or at least have one laying around in case of failure.

 

[Gingerbee]

those drivers will run 3 vero 18 each just another option worked out well for me

 

[Atulip]

I upgraded a few of their current Mars300(60x5) recently. Had 2 of the same drivers in each light. A single 72v cxb3590 each driver works well, and I have one with 2 x cxb2530s per driver. I chose to upgrade the heatsinks. The heatsinkusa 4.85" because it was thin enough to fit in the case(after removing the glass) and only $1 an inch, 2 x 7" fit nicely side by side for me.

If on a budget consider the cxb2530. Cutter has the 90cri 3000k for $11. That's $22 per driver upgrade for about 125 lumens/watt.

 

[SamsonsRiddle]

I upgraded a few of their current Mars300(60x5) recently. Had 2 of the same drivers in each light. A single 72v cxb3590 each driver works well, and I have one with 2 x cxb2530s per driver. I chose to upgrade the heatsinks. The heatsinkusa 4.85" because it was thin enough to fit in the case(after removing the glass) and only $1 an inch, 2 x 7" fit nicely side by side for me.

If on a budget consider the cxb2530. Cutter has the 90cri 3000k for $11. That's $22 per driver upgrade for about 125 lumens/watt.

You have my interested now. I really didn't want to spend too much on this project considering the size of the tent it is going in and the limited possibilities.

I think that 60x5 has different drivers, but you think those cobs would still be effective in this set up? I would need 8 at $88 which would be the cheapest option yet for the cobs alone.

I'm a little sketchy about soldering, as i've never done it before. Do they make holders? Do you have links?

 

[Atulip]

Cxb2530 90cri 3000k

http://www.cutter.com.au/proddetail.php?prod=cut2827

Solderless connectors

http://www.cutter.com.au/proddetail.php?prod=cut2713

Now 3590 72v still isn't too bad with the cutter kits. 190 USD with 4x 3590s, thermal pads, ideal holders. Gets you like 190 lumens per watt, pretty top end for efficiency.

http://www.cutter.com.au/proddetail.php?prod=cut2914

 

[Randomblame]

Hey SamsonsRiddle,

You can also get some cxa2540 for Ø 10 bucks from eBay.


It's a 3.500k V4 bin cob with CRI80 and seems to be cheaper and a bit more efficient as the cxb2530 CRI92.

At 0,6amps each will run at 20-22w and with two in series on each driver your whole lamp will get round about 175-180w net and maybe 200w from the wall.
Each Cob needs Ø 35v at 600mA and delivers 140-145lm/w or a efficiency of 43-45% at 55°C.

I'm using 6 of them on a self-made heatsink together with a HLG-80H-C350B for my small dimable 75w vegi light and doing wonders to my tiny tomatos.
The heatsink is a simple build from a 600x 350x 3mm alu-sheet and eight 550mm c-profiles glued together with thermal adhesive and have ø 4300cm2 cooling surface.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/311492407357?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

 

[SamsonsRiddle]

First off, I want to say thanks a lot guys. I really appreciate you putting all these options together for me. I'm going to mull these options over and i'll get back to you.

I like the cxb3590s because of the possibility of later on, if space ever becomes available, using them to make a more powerful light.

Both of the others could very well just be hooked up with everything i have now and i wouldn't have to pay so much.

I'll have to really think about this.

 

[Growmau5]

Get the best chips you can afford. You will get the most mileage out of them.

Eg. I have 20 cxa3070 sitting around collecting dust. Because I wanted to save a bit up front.

 

[SamsonsRiddle]

OK everyone, I'm an convinced that I should move forward with the 72v CXB3590 build and am going to price everything out separately vs the cutter deal and find out which is a better deal. It is going to be a little while before i get to start disassembling/building but I will keep everyone posted.

EDIT: That didn't take long. That cutter deal is a steal compared to digikey. What would you suggest as far as which K to get? I am just going to be using these predominately to flower.

I know it's hard to say "best", but what would you do if you were in this specific situation?

 

[sureshot138]

3500K

 

[SamsonsRiddle]

I went ahead and pulled the trigger on this one: http://www.cutter.com.au/proddetail.php?prod=cut2914

Got 3500K and found a discount code on here "CUTANDROLL" which made the shipping free. I think after fees and everything it came out to $207 shipped.

This build will begin in a month or two when i have some more time and access to my shitty mars. I'll update when the process begins.

 

[SamsonsRiddle]

The project is coming up on starting, right now i am sourcing materials. I didn't know aluminum sheets were so expensive... looks like about $30 for a 12"x24"x.125" piece after shipping. This is actually one of the last things i need to get started.

I'm going to use a little larger self-tapping screws than recommended for the ideal holders since they are much easier to find and i would think easier to install. I don't really need the twist and remove option since i could just unscrew the holders if needed.

As soon as i receive everything i should be able to take some pictures and give a better idea of the plans.

 

[SamsonsRiddle]

This project is going to go along in 3 phases. First part of phase 1 was to take the shitty mars apart by removing all mounting screws. Here are some pictures of what you have after you do that. Also pictured is a piece of aluminum i ordered online, custom cut to just under the size of the old led light panel (to allow more airflow out of the case).

 

[SamsonsRiddle]

After this, I went ahead and cut the wires that came from the board going to the drivers.

 

[SamsonsRiddle]

Next, I removed the screws holding the heat sink(s) to the led board. This allowed me to remove the heat sinks and collect the thermal paste underneath. If you can't tell by the pictures, the thermal paste was very uneven and the heat sinks are a little warped. I used the same paste and spread it out more evenly along the heat sinks.

 

[SamsonsRiddle]

I then used the side of the old led board that had the heat sinks on them to mark all my new holes and drill them on my piece of aluminum. This includes the 1/8" drilled holes for the 4 heat sink screws per heat sink; and the 4 screws that mount the led board to the case got 5/32" holes because they have some plastic washer things on them that rests inside the holes on the led board.

I didn't drill out any holes for grommets to allow the wires to run through, since i am going to purchase some new ones once i move into phase 3.

 

[SamsonsRiddle]

Here's where I am now ready to start phase 2, but i have no idea what the better of my options would be.



Should i keep the holders aligned like this where everything is spaced out within the edges of the heat sinks on back?
Would there be a better configuration?
Is it best to keep the led over the heat sinks or will the aluminum transfer enough heat to the heat sinks no matter where they are aligned on the aluminum?

 

[Atulip]

I'd keep the leds over the heatsinks, but I also opted to upgrade to the HSUSA 4.85" profile. Heatsinks in mine were some flimsy little things(Mars300 60x5)

Configuration doesn't look bad. Main thing is keeping the chips cool.

 

[SamsonsRiddle]

I'd keep the leds over the heatsinks, but I also opted to upgrade to the HSUSA 4.85" profile. Heatsinks in mine were some flimsy little things(Mars300 60x5)

Configuration doesn't look bad. Main thing is keeping the chips cool.

you're right about the heat sinks they come with being a joke. i'm going to continue on with the set-up i pictured (as far as mounting the leds). then i get to figure out grommets and wiring for phase 3. hopefully, this will all be done and running by the end of this weekend.

Thanks for the reply.

Any way you can bring your build over to rollitup? I saw it on that other site but can't enlarge any pictures unless i become a member

 

[Atulip]

Had 2 drivers in mine, 55-100v, .6, .65, .7A in various versions of the Mars300(60x5). Glass removed so the thicker heatsink would fit, the 4.85" was the largest I could fit in there for thickness and still keep everything inside the frame, 2 heatsinks each, and 7" length. With a 72v cxb3590 on each driver, one driver had 2 outputs, one to the fan, left it alone. The other driver I opted for a couple 18v 1512s in parallel after the 72v to get a little more oomph outta the light. Another has 77v cxas with 1512s, so those work too.



4.85"x7" 2 fit side by side in the case


Kapton tape and arctic silver 5


In the case and silicone around the heatsink to keep it in place.