Recycled Organic Living Soil (ROLS) and No Till Thread

Midwest Weedist

Well-Known Member
i think this website has come up before, but just found a great overview on how to naturally garden (soil mix, IPM, SSTs, ect...): http://www.moderncannabist.com/knowledge/modern-methods

For any new guys out there, don't feel like you have to do everything on his Bloom Schedule. It's a bit intense.
Wow, that's a handy ass website! I've had a few recipes that I've needed clarification on ratios, not anymore!

For their teas that use the em1 innoculant, wouldn't a homemade lactobacillus serum work? I mean it's the same thing correct, it's just a form of sugar and the lacto bacterium?
 

Midwest Weedist

Well-Known Member
Hey guy, I've got a bag of leftover high P Guano that I want to get rid of as I'm making the transition to only using animal byproducts in my compost. I used it to build my first soil and haven't touched it save for a light topdress to my bell peppers.
Could I use some of it with some lacto to make something highly available? (outdoor gardening use, not for my cannabis ladies). I'm just looking for unique ways to get rid of it instead of just throwing it in someone's garden / compost.
 

greasemonkeymann

Well-Known Member
Hey guy, I've got a bag of leftover high P Guano that I want to get rid of as I'm making the transition to only using animal byproducts in my compost. I used it to build my first soil and haven't touched it save for a light topdress to my bell peppers.
Could I use some of it with some lacto to make something highly available? (outdoor gardening use, not for my cannabis ladies). I'm just looking for unique ways to get rid of it instead of just throwing it in someone's garden / compost.
I think most of us have some guano leftover...
I use the bejesus out of mine in my compost pile, but it was the high nitrogen one.
Use it in your compost man, it won't hurt anything, couldn't hurt at all.
It's a good organic nutrient. As much as the taboo behind it, it's not bad to have, and such, it IS a good water soluble nutrient, sorta hard to find a phosphorus input that is soluble, most aren't, rock phosphates, bone meals, etc.
I found after I got my recipe down, that I simply don't use it.
BUT for my orchids? and my clerodendrons, it's a must have, especially the orchids.
Literally sprinkle a teensy bit on there, and mist it through with a spray bottle, and there they go, in fact i'd speculate that since orchids grow on the sides of trees that bird and bat shit is what they'd normally get for nutrients..
Ahhh... I digress...
 

4ftRoots

Well-Known Member
I think I've stumbled upon something interesting!

The great people at bas found this about worm castings
http://buildasoil.com/blogs/news/8787365-some-really-cool-and-effective-insect-control-techniques-using-earthworm-castings
I recommend reading the whole patent. Patent is bs though hahaha

It basically states that worm castings can be used as an insect repellant through spraying and topdressing. However the main enzyme they are looking at is the chitinase enzyme. And they found that the levels of chitinase in plants naturally is not high enough to fend off most pests. So the worm castings being super high in organisms that produce that enzyme is great!

I literally always have problems with spider mites so I need to try this. I topdress with neem and crab every other a week switching but it just doesn't do it anymore. I am going to try to throw a tbsp of crab and shrimp shell into my compost tea and do a foliar or two on my vegging girls. Chitin is not water soluble but does that sound like a good idea?

I'll update if mites disappear!
 

Midwest Weedist

Well-Known Member
I think I've stumbled upon something interesting!

The great people at bas found this about worm castings
http://buildasoil.com/blogs/news/8787365-some-really-cool-and-effective-insect-control-techniques-using-earthworm-castings
I recommend reading the whole patent. Patent is bs though hahaha

It basically states that worm castings can be used as an insect repellant through spraying and topdressing. However the main enzyme they are looking at is the chitinase enzyme. And they found that the levels of chitinase in plants naturally is not high enough to fend off most pests. So the worm castings being super high in organisms that produce that enzyme is great!

I literally always have problems with spider mites so I need to try this. I topdress with neem and crab every other a week switching but it just doesn't do it anymore. I am going to try to throw a tbsp of crab and shrimp shell into my compost tea and do a foliar or two on my vegging girls. Chitin is not water soluble but does that sound like a good idea?

I'll update if mites disappear!
Oh this doesn't surprise me! Vermicompost (screened castings have worked the best) is my main defense against pests. Before I topdress with neem/karanja I topdress with it. My seedlings are planted in almost 60% vermicompost too. The stuff is worth more than its weight in gold imo
 

4ftRoots

Well-Known Member
Oh this doesn't surprise me! Vermicompost (screened castings have worked the best) is my main defense against pests. Before I topdress with neem/karanja I topdress with it. My seedlings are planted in almost 60% vermicompost too. The stuff is worth more than its weight in gold imo
I never noticed a reduction in mites when topdressing only EWC but that could be because I do not screen them. lots of work. I've bought every essential oil under the sun but the winner was right under my nose. Making a tea as this moment!
 

Pattahabi

Well-Known Member
I think I've stumbled upon something interesting!

The great people at bas found this about worm castings
http://buildasoil.com/blogs/news/8787365-some-really-cool-and-effective-insect-control-techniques-using-earthworm-castings
I recommend reading the whole patent. Patent is bs though hahaha

It basically states that worm castings can be used as an insect repellant through spraying and topdressing. However the main enzyme they are looking at is the chitinase enzyme. And they found that the levels of chitinase in plants naturally is not high enough to fend off most pests. So the worm castings being super high in organisms that produce that enzyme is great!

I literally always have problems with spider mites so I need to try this. I topdress with neem and crab every other a week switching but it just doesn't do it anymore. I am going to try to throw a tbsp of crab and shrimp shell into my compost tea and do a foliar or two on my vegging girls. Chitin is not water soluble but does that sound like a good idea?

I'll update if mites disappear!
I think many of the people in this thread already knew about the pest suppression of vermicompost. The crab shell tea isn't going to work for mites, use emulsified neem oil.

P-
 
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4ftRoots

Well-Known Member
Never hit me honestly lol. I need it spelled out. but now that I know I can stop wasting time and money with neem oil that has never worked for me ever. I'm pretty excited to foliar with castings. I always do it in the garden kinda but indoors it bugged me to see the plants a little dirty. After all it does not rain inside.
 

Midwest Weedist

Well-Known Member
I never noticed a reduction in mites when topdressing only EWC but that could be because I do not screen them. lots of work. I've bought every essential oil under the sun but the winner was right under my nose. Making a tea as this moment!
I've never had mites (thank insert deity!), so I can't speak for them. But I've noticed that pests like gnats are gone within days, with Bti it takes weeks in heavy amounts. But, not all vermicompost is created equally, so that's something to remember.
Never hit me honestly lol. I need it spelled out. but now that I know I can stop wasting time and money with neem oil that has never worked for me ever. I'm pretty excited to foliar with castings. I always do it in the garden kinda but indoors it bugged me to see the plants a little dirty. After all it does not rain inside.
It does if you make it! I "make it rain" (haha I couldn't help myself) pure h2o on my plants once or twice a week. So much so that it's similar to a light watering afterwards. My stomata are either full of goodies from a foliar or clean from pure water. Most of the time you can see a light layer of aloe leftover from my foliars in between my "rains". I do it in a slow process too, I literally take a home-use spray bottle and spray 1/8 of what I'd water with over each plant, all the way up to the last two weeks of flower. I'm lucky that I have an average humidity of below 40 percent or else I wouldn't do it that far in flower. I can tell when I don't do this as my leaves feel a bit stiffer, almost as if they're retaining water instead of transpiring. It doesn't matter how often I water and in what amounts, they're always like this if I don't (some of my house plants act similarly). I attribute it to my low rh.
 

Midwest Weedist

Well-Known Member
Anyone have any clue at all where to find any mutant strains of cannabis? I hate posting unrelated stuff in threads, but this is the only thread it seems like that isn't full of morons lol.
I'd like to get my hands on something like Mongy, ABC, Duckfoot, etc for breeding purposes. But I think I missed the bandwagon for that by almost a decade.
 

foreverflyhi

Well-Known Member
Anyone have any clue at all where to find any mutant strains of cannabis? I hate posting unrelated stuff in threads, but this is the only thread it seems like that isn't full of morons lol.
I'd like to get my hands on something like Mongy, ABC, Duckfoot, etc for breeding purposes. But I think I missed the bandwagon for that by almost a decade.
Ooooh honestly in don't, but i do recall one called ABC freak strain, it didn't even look like cannabis, yield and thc was lo, but you could grow it in your front yard with out being detected
 

st0wandgrow

Well-Known Member
Anyone have any clue at all where to find any mutant strains of cannabis? I hate posting unrelated stuff in threads, but this is the only thread it seems like that isn't full of morons lol.
I'd like to get my hands on something like Mongy, ABC, Duckfoot, etc for breeding purposes. But I think I missed the bandwagon for that by almost a decade.

DJ Shorts Blueberry is notorious for mutations.... if you don't mind dropping $150+ for a pack of seeds. :eyesmoke:
 

Midwest Weedist

Well-Known Member
Just grow a bunch from seed...run a pack of ten or twenty and you will likely have one or two mutants...especially if you get seeds that are NOT FEMMED and from a breeder that has a longer history amd greater diversity of gear, and thus more recessive profiles built into their strains...
Oh I've popped hundreds of beans by now and have never found a single mutation, aside from my Yunnan landrace that threw the most perfectly symmetrical 8 bladed leaf.



Ooooh honestly in don't, but i do recall one called ABC freak strain, it didn't even look like cannabis, yield and thc was lo, but you could grow it in your front yard with out being detected
If I'm correct, the Mongy strain is where the abc and duckfoot originated. Supposedly the mongy was a Aussie landrace that was crossed with a multitude of indicas and sativas by some old Aussie couple who found, then later gifted it to a friend when they were too old too grow. He supposedly crossed it with a Flo and then those seeds were passed around,especially by Marc Emery (I probably butchered his name).

DJ Shorts Blueberry is notorious for mutations.... if you don't mind dropping $150+ for a pack of seeds. :eyesmoke:
One day I plan to get my hands on some of djs blue line. And not just for the mutations! I have absolutely loved every single strain that had some of the blue genetics in them.
 
Hello,
I'm still having trouble understanding how to rejuvenate or recycle soil. How do you know how much amendment to add? Could I use my own nutrient mix? I have seen various methods posted here http://www.moderncannabist.com/knowledge/modern-methods, from Lumper and the first post on this forum but the amounts seem to vary, is it just preference? Also, if you are rejuvenating the soil in between each cycle then is it necessary to topdress during the cycle? Sorry for so many questions but my thoughts get twisted and start to contradict. All and any help is greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
MH
 

Midwest Weedist

Well-Known Member
Hello,
I'm still having trouble understanding how to rejuvenate or recycle soil. How do you know how much amendment to add? Could I use my own nutrient mix? I have seen various methods posted here http://www.moderncannabist.com/knowledge/modern-methods, from Lumper and the first post on this forum but the amounts seem to vary, is it just preference? Also, if you are rejuvenating the soil in between each cycle then is it necessary to topdress during the cycle? Sorry for so many questions but my thoughts get twisted and start to contradict. All and any help is greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
MH
There's a lot of ways to skin a cat man. Instead of spewing out a bunch of answers, let me ask you some questions first. What size planters do you use, how long do you plan on vegging your plants, what's your soil mix made up of, and do you plan on doing things like aacts, ssts, etc? All these will determine what method you should use to best suit your needs.
if you'd like to skip the re-ammending stage I suggest you read up on the Korean no-till style of farming a lot of us use. If you prefer to dump out all of your soil, ammend, then repot, that's another story, though quite similar.
 

Darth Vapour

Well-Known Member
Hello,
I'm still having trouble understanding how to rejuvenate or recycle soil. How do you know how much amendment to add? Could I use my own nutrient mix? I have seen various methods posted here http://www.moderncannabist.com/knowledge/modern-methods, from Lumper and the first post on this forum but the amounts seem to vary, is it just preference? Also, if you are rejuvenating the soil in between each cycle then is it necessary to topdress during the cycle? Sorry for so many questions but my thoughts get twisted and start to contradict. All and any help is greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
MH
They don't most are just winging it , unless you get a Actual soil analysis Done your winging it plain and simple.. all organic additives are amendments not nutrients, And you are correct it varies Large in actual NPK And like you mention with top dressing is they never had enough of the A or B in there soil to begin with again lack of trully understanding LOS
 
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