I want to start growing but I don't really want to do all the extra stuff like the high voltage lights, nutrients etc. I just want to plant it and water it... Is that possible? I don't even want to grow a ton of plants just one plant, that's it... Is it possible? I was thinking about planting it in my shed since it is abandoned and NOBODY goes in it it's just there we never even used it and we lived here for 16 years...anyway it's dark and there isn't no air circulation in there... Any advice? Btw I'm Jocelyn
Thinking about frowning and I'm new
- Thread starter Jozygirl
- Start date
BarnBuster
Virtually Unknown Member
shucks, I've got a barn you could have used. would have turned that frown upside down! you have to have light, (at least planted outside in sun) and other stuff or you'll end up with a stick with leaves. Welcome to RIU
vostok
Well-Known Member
Welcome to Rollitup....dotorg...here we discuss cannabis use and how to grow it and shit like that ....take a look around, many do... but unlike you many members go on to make that commitment to grow some great weed with fantastic results, other wise why don't you just see that shifty guy on your corner ...he's a dealer, makes it real easy for you ....lol
Thanks for the welcome.. but I'd rather just grow my own and save cash. I really like growing stuff but I'm just paranoid about getting caught lol. I watch the YouTube videos all the time and I notice a lot of extra stuff added just to grow a plant and I was just wondering if I HAVE to do it to hrow a nice, healthy, harvest ready plant.
vostok
Well-Known Member
Now that cheered you up ...huh !!! I had though you had logged of in frustration .....lol your return made my day!!!! ....lol
BarnBuster
Virtually Unknown Member
probably need to post a picture here:
https://www.rollitup.org/toke-n-talk/42351-picture-yourself-thread.html
Dr.J20
Well-Known Member
they're usually just high wattage; voltage generally stays between 120 and 240v. Of course, i'm with dadio: why grow if you don't want to well, grow?
To more directly answer your question:
Mix up 1 bag premium potting soil with coco and mycorrhizae, eg., roots organic
add ≈6lbs premium earth worm castings,
5/8lbs of: blood meal, bone meal, high-phosphorous bat guano, fish bone meal
3Tbsp epsom salt
2C dolomite lime
1/8C azomite
Mix it all together, wet it down with some tap water that you've let sit out over night to let the chlorine evaporate out, and then leave that soil alone for about 2 weeks. While you let that soil cook, soak your seed in some dechlorinated tap water over night. Then, place it in a party cup (like a red solo brand plastic cup) that you've filled with some of that good potting soil, put holes in the bottom of that cup for drainage and air exchange. Keep it warm and under a 5$ clamp light with a 42w 6500K Compact flourescent light (CFL). That light can take you all the way to your transplant. After that soil you mixed has cooked for two weeks, and you've nursed that seedling under the 42w CFL, you're ready to transplant. Get a 5 gallon bucket, pour it half full with your homemade supersoil, then top with that premium potting soil. dig out a hole about the depth of your party cup. Get you a bottle of rooter's mycorrhizae. Flip your seedling upside down and let her slide out of the party cup. While her roots are exposed, dust them with a little rooter's mycorrhizae. Dust a little into the hole you've made for her as well. Then flip her over gently into that hole. water her in with aact or dechlorinated tap water. At this point you'll need to have procured a light source. Since you don't want to invest in a ballast, bulb, reflector hood, ventilation fan etc. it seems like a small T5, LED, or some cfls are going to be the way to go. While a ventillation system is better, you will at least need a fan to move CO2 around the leaves of your plant so she can exchange CO2 for O2 and grow. Check out a 2' 6 bulb T5 panel rigged out with 3:1 6500K:27/3000K bulbs. Or, most likely, you should check out the buds for less thread in the cfl section of indoor growing forum. If you've made it this far in this post you should know that what I've written is all pretty much accurate. Keep your CFL/T5/LED lighting as close to your plant as possible, unless you purchase a newer, more expensive LED--in which case, follow manufacturer's recs and experiment until you find what you like.
Run your lights on a timer set 18hrs on, 6 hours off for 4 weeks. After the 4th week, leave your lights off for an entire 24hr period. Then set your timer for 12 hours on, 12 hours off. You'll also want to invert your bulb line-up so that its 3:1 27/3000K:6500K--for a 6 bulb set up this would be 4 2700K/3000K bulbs and 2 6500K bulbs. Then you're going to want to get a 100x pocket microscope to check your tricome heads. Start doing this about week 7. These glands will turn from clear to milky to amber. 15%clear, 70%milky, 15%amber should be a good target for your first harvest. Before you harvest, turn the lights out for 2 days to let resin production reach a maximum. Cut fan leaves as much as possible before you cut the base of the stem. Allow her to hang, trimmed, upside down, with a fan still gently oscilating on her as always, to dry for 7 -12 days. the stem should snap, but not break off. No lights should be on during this time. After it has reached this point of dryness, trim and manicure your buds and place them in a glass jar. Open the jar for 15 minutes ever 8 hours and roll it on its side. This is called curing. The longer you do this the better but it takes a minimum of 7 days to start getting well cured buds. That's it.
Only other tip for you is let your plant tell you when to water her: drooping sad leaves means "i need water mom!" don't let her go too long or get too droopy but allowing her soil to dry out a bit is OK--depending on how moist your soil mix is and your ambient temps, this should probably be twice a week in veg (18/6 light schedule) and a little more in flower, depending on how much she feeds.
And another thing, since ambient temps are mentioned, keep your environment at 65% humidity, and 72 degrees the whole way through and you'll be golden; 60-80%, 75-80degrees are optimum ranges for vegetative phase while 40-60% and 68-74 degrees are optimal ranges for flower/bloom.
So, its really not that much, i did the basics for you, including the supremely famous subcool supersoil recipe scaled to 1/8th its usual size (i fudged the ingredients and numbers a bit, sorry), and gave a very quick rundown on lighting, vent. and general environment and it took me about 12 minutes...takes a bit longer to learn this shit and thats probably why you're getting some curt responses
be easy!
Dr.J
To more directly answer your question:
Mix up 1 bag premium potting soil with coco and mycorrhizae, eg., roots organic
add ≈6lbs premium earth worm castings,
5/8lbs of: blood meal, bone meal, high-phosphorous bat guano, fish bone meal
3Tbsp epsom salt
2C dolomite lime
1/8C azomite
Mix it all together, wet it down with some tap water that you've let sit out over night to let the chlorine evaporate out, and then leave that soil alone for about 2 weeks. While you let that soil cook, soak your seed in some dechlorinated tap water over night. Then, place it in a party cup (like a red solo brand plastic cup) that you've filled with some of that good potting soil, put holes in the bottom of that cup for drainage and air exchange. Keep it warm and under a 5$ clamp light with a 42w 6500K Compact flourescent light (CFL). That light can take you all the way to your transplant. After that soil you mixed has cooked for two weeks, and you've nursed that seedling under the 42w CFL, you're ready to transplant. Get a 5 gallon bucket, pour it half full with your homemade supersoil, then top with that premium potting soil. dig out a hole about the depth of your party cup. Get you a bottle of rooter's mycorrhizae. Flip your seedling upside down and let her slide out of the party cup. While her roots are exposed, dust them with a little rooter's mycorrhizae. Dust a little into the hole you've made for her as well. Then flip her over gently into that hole. water her in with aact or dechlorinated tap water. At this point you'll need to have procured a light source. Since you don't want to invest in a ballast, bulb, reflector hood, ventilation fan etc. it seems like a small T5, LED, or some cfls are going to be the way to go. While a ventillation system is better, you will at least need a fan to move CO2 around the leaves of your plant so she can exchange CO2 for O2 and grow. Check out a 2' 6 bulb T5 panel rigged out with 3:1 6500K:27/3000K bulbs. Or, most likely, you should check out the buds for less thread in the cfl section of indoor growing forum. If you've made it this far in this post you should know that what I've written is all pretty much accurate. Keep your CFL/T5/LED lighting as close to your plant as possible, unless you purchase a newer, more expensive LED--in which case, follow manufacturer's recs and experiment until you find what you like.
Run your lights on a timer set 18hrs on, 6 hours off for 4 weeks. After the 4th week, leave your lights off for an entire 24hr period. Then set your timer for 12 hours on, 12 hours off. You'll also want to invert your bulb line-up so that its 3:1 27/3000K:6500K--for a 6 bulb set up this would be 4 2700K/3000K bulbs and 2 6500K bulbs. Then you're going to want to get a 100x pocket microscope to check your tricome heads. Start doing this about week 7. These glands will turn from clear to milky to amber. 15%clear, 70%milky, 15%amber should be a good target for your first harvest. Before you harvest, turn the lights out for 2 days to let resin production reach a maximum. Cut fan leaves as much as possible before you cut the base of the stem. Allow her to hang, trimmed, upside down, with a fan still gently oscilating on her as always, to dry for 7 -12 days. the stem should snap, but not break off. No lights should be on during this time. After it has reached this point of dryness, trim and manicure your buds and place them in a glass jar. Open the jar for 15 minutes ever 8 hours and roll it on its side. This is called curing. The longer you do this the better but it takes a minimum of 7 days to start getting well cured buds. That's it.
Only other tip for you is let your plant tell you when to water her: drooping sad leaves means "i need water mom!" don't let her go too long or get too droopy but allowing her soil to dry out a bit is OK--depending on how moist your soil mix is and your ambient temps, this should probably be twice a week in veg (18/6 light schedule) and a little more in flower, depending on how much she feeds.
And another thing, since ambient temps are mentioned, keep your environment at 65% humidity, and 72 degrees the whole way through and you'll be golden; 60-80%, 75-80degrees are optimum ranges for vegetative phase while 40-60% and 68-74 degrees are optimal ranges for flower/bloom.
So, its really not that much, i did the basics for you, including the supremely famous subcool supersoil recipe scaled to 1/8th its usual size (i fudged the ingredients and numbers a bit, sorry), and gave a very quick rundown on lighting, vent. and general environment and it took me about 12 minutes...takes a bit longer to learn this shit and thats probably why you're getting some curt responses
be easy!
Dr.J
dirtyho1968
Well-Known Member
^^Way too much work for her.