Micro
- Thread starter watsupbud
- Start date
Yes im running a rez, my ppm is about 600 1st week of veg. Some leaves are yellow and some look good. Im not sure what it could be. My overall room temp is about 75 77, but the area from the light to my plant is about 80. Any ideas. Im using the 3 part flora series of gh. please helpso your running a rez?
yeah you need to up your EC/PPM, your macros are NPK.
Not micros, they are your micro nutrients
Its a N issue if the yellowing is from the bottom up.
let me know if you need anymore help but list some details ok.
600ppm, what EC? is that low for this strain
what medium?
how often do you flush your rez.
hydro is easy because when we have problems all we gotta do is flush and re-set everything again.
There are no deficiencies because everything you need is contained in those bottles, specifically formulated to grow the plant.
So as long as we keep the pH right we are fine. A the pH affects the uptake of the nutes
So keep that pH in range,
And keep your rez temperatures right, gotta keep the roots healthy, root health is uber.
what medium?
how often do you flush your rez.
hydro is easy because when we have problems all we gotta do is flush and re-set everything again.
There are no deficiencies because everything you need is contained in those bottles, specifically formulated to grow the plant.
So as long as we keep the pH right we are fine. A the pH affects the uptake of the nutes
So keep that pH in range,
And keep your rez temperatures right, gotta keep the roots healthy, root health is uber.
600ppm, what EC? is that low for this strain
what medium?
how often do you flush your rez.
hydro is easy because when we have problems all we gotta do is flush and re-set everything again.
There are no deficiencies because everything you need is contained in those bottles, specifically formulated to grow the plant.
So as long as we keep the pH right we are fine. A the pH affects the uptake of the nutes
So keep that pH in range,
And keep your rez temperatures right, gotta keep the roots healthy, root health is uber.
im not sure what ec it is, i would have to check. I change my rez weekly or plan too. I just started my first week 1. What do you recommend me using as far as a schedule with gh flora seris 3 part. This is what im currently following. Any ideas of what you would suggest. Medium is rockwool in 5 inch pot covered with hydroton.
http://www.hydroponics.net/learn/weekly_feeding_program_flora.asp?gallons=5&display=ml&B1=Submit
water temp is about 70
room temp is about 75
area from lights to plants about 80 w fans blowing 2x600w about 18inches above plants
ph about 5.8
what do u recommend, if i need to drop the lights to 400w i can because i have a digital ballast and bulb....what would you do?
I dont have any experience in that line, i can only give advice:
like if the yellowing is from the bottom up its obvious lacking N so you need to up the PPM/EC and that is most likely the problem
Is the yellowing on the tops? light bleaching? will fry your trichs and harm production, however the distance seems fine. Hold your hand underneath for 30 secs and see if it burns. But thats only a problem for your tops, it wouldnt yellow anywhere else.
I suppose pics would be good, i take it they are not over-watered
Everything else seems fine
The best thing about hydro is we can dump it all out, give the plants a flush and start over, it an take a few days of patience to see if they are picking up
From this recipe here it seems it could be higher 600-800
And heres the link if its allowedhttp://www.mrnice.nl/forum/14-indoor/4131-lucas-formula-vs-3part-genhy-formula-2.html ,
the best thing you could do is learn about the 3 part so you can understand it and confidentley use it
like if the yellowing is from the bottom up its obvious lacking N so you need to up the PPM/EC and that is most likely the problem
Is the yellowing on the tops? light bleaching? will fry your trichs and harm production, however the distance seems fine. Hold your hand underneath for 30 secs and see if it burns. But thats only a problem for your tops, it wouldnt yellow anywhere else.
I suppose pics would be good, i take it they are not over-watered
Everything else seems fine
The best thing about hydro is we can dump it all out, give the plants a flush and start over, it an take a few days of patience to see if they are picking up
From this recipe here it seems it could be higher 600-800
And heres the link if its allowedhttp://www.mrnice.nl/forum/14-indoor/4131-lucas-formula-vs-3part-genhy-formula-2.html ,
the best thing you could do is learn about the 3 part so you can understand it and confidentley use it
So OK - feeding schedule week by week. This is the GH weekly feeding program, slightly tweaked. I will only call out the volume of each part per gallon of water in the following manner: grow, micro, bloom, ppm range. Example - 5-2.5-2.5-400/800 would mean 5 ml grow, 2.5 ml micro, 2.5 ml bloom and a ppm of 400-880. Remember it's per gallon. You Euro's can easily convert to liters. 4 liters is just a little bit over 1 gallon. It should also be noted that I use the hardwater micro due to my tapwater. I suggest using the hardwater micro in place of the regular micro if your tap water is over 200 ppm total or you have over 70 ppm Ca. RO water users should use the regular micro.
Veg -
week 1 5-2.5-2.5-400/600
week 2 10-5-3- 600/800
week 3 12-6-3 800/1000 (continue week 3 formula if additional veg time is required.)
Bloom
week 1 6-6-10- 800/1200
week 2 3-7-12 - 1000/1400
week 3 3-8-14 - 1000/1400
week 4 3-8-16 - 1000/1400
week 5 (discussed in detail below*)
week 6 0-7-20 - 1000/1400
week 7 0-6-20 (see bleow**)
* During week 5 if not using a booster like Superbud, Bushmaster Kabloom etc. run 2.5-7-18. I use MOAB (Mother of All Blooms) or BushMaster at 50% of recommended strength, and use 1.25-3.5-9 for the fert base.
**If running an 8 week strain you should only run the ferts during week 7 for a maximum of 3-4 days. This gives you 10 days for flushing. I should note that if I use ferts for a few days in week 7, I take the lants over the 8 week mark. Personally I flush for a min of 14 days. But 10 is bare minimum imo/ime.
The ppms work out almost exactly. I tend to lean toward the lower side of the range, unless I have a really heavy feeder that I know can handle it.
At every ressy change out I add in 5 drops per gallon of 35% food grade H2O2. During flush use ph adjusted water at 5.5-6.0
I will add epsom salt at week 1 of bloom if the plants are heavy feeders AND I see signs of an Mg def. Otherwise I won't use it. The only time I have ever had Mg def is during transition. The GH 3 part is a little low on Mg, but the PBP and Canna nutes are way lower.
Now- how to control your PH...
There are a couple factors that cause your PH to drift. The most common is running the nute solution too strong or too weak. If it's too strong, your PH drops. If it's too weak the PH rises. You have to find the balance point. If you find that the formula above is say, a little strong, and say you have a 20 gallon ressy, mix the nutes for 18 gallons. If it's a little weak, mix it for 22 gallons. You follow?
The other common mistake is mixing your nutrient solution and trying to adjust the PH right away. You have to allow time for the ph buffers in the nutrient solution to do their job. Mix the nutes up, and bubble or circulate for 12 hours before even looking at your PH. You will find the PH to be almost right on target.
I use little or no ph adjusters. (Except during flush). I use tap water, with a starting PPM of 300-400 and a starting PH of 7.4-9.0 (Thats crazy you say! The water is too hard, you will never get stable PH and you will have too much Ca, causing a lockout of Mg!) Bollocks I say.
Every week, on Friday I drain the ressy and fill with plain water. I let that run overnight giving the plants a little flush. This also allows the chlorine and ammonia to evap. On Saturday morning, I mix the nutes into the ressy. I DO NOT adjust ph at this time. Let that run as is overnight. On Sunday morning, I check ph and adjust if needed. Usually don't have to.
Doing things this way has saved me from constant PH drifts, and using about 150 ml of ph down every ressy change, and a little here and there throughout the week to keep it in the desired range. Now, the most I ever have to use is about 30 ml.if any at all. (I have a 35 gallon ressy btw) My Ph stays at a constant 5.5-5.8.
If you are still having PH issues using the above method, an alternative is to PH adjust the plain water to 5.5 BEFORE you add nutes.