Your opinion of my next outdoor this year

tytheguy111

tytheguy111

Well-Known Member
Okay this is my grow plan for this year's outdoors grow im just gonna say it and see what you vets/novices think

Last 2 years were duds I didn't know what I was doing sorta like the first time you had sex

This year after research I think I figured it out so tell me what you think

When the seeds im germing sprout ill start them in solo cups with dirt from the woods (humus soil) tilled heavily with cow patties mixed in

After there on there 6th to 8th set of leafs ill keep them in the cups but put them out in the woods so wind isn't as strong

Then while there chilling in the woods I'll till up the place im gonna transplant them with cow shit and worms

And make it really airy and loose

Then after thats accomplished and a week has gone by and there a little tougher ill transplant them

After tomorrow its going to be in the 50s and week after next its going to be 60 to 70

The thing is it's only 12 hour days now but hopefully that will be okay im starting off with bag seed from my favorite bud I get around here

After a while ill germ some other seeds im getting and im planning on getting a few feminized easy ryder to plant near my house or possibly my first indoor grow if I can acquire a proper grow box or make one myself


Like I said your thoughts and criticism is appreciated greatly

Oh and as a side question tell me your methods to keep animals from your crop spot
 
tytheguy111

tytheguy111

Well-Known Member
Steele_GreenMan said:
Keepin babies in solo cups for that long will be a pain in the b utt

U gotta water like every day
Click to expand...

Really? Everyday

Well thanks I might still start them in a solo cup for a bit till there bigger

But I guess they dont need the whole breaking them in for the outdoors
 
A

anzohaze

Well-Known Member
can you afford to buy some shit if so get kelp meal, ewc, oyster shells some bone meal and a few other things 100 dollars worth of ammendments. Dig holes tilling does not go deep enough throw in old rotten log chunks, mix ammendments withe soil you dug out hole and as you add dirt back keep adding rotted logs. You now have plenty ammements plenty aeration and lent grow. Every so often top dress if needed and etc
 
calicocalyx

calicocalyx

Well-Known Member
Do you have a light to start them with? Do not put seedlings in dirt that has a lot of cow patties. Composted cow shit can go in your holes that you are digging but small plants don't need a lot of food, especially if they don't have a lot of light to convert that food.
 
tytheguy111

tytheguy111

Well-Known Member
calicocalyx said:
Do you have a light to start them with? Do not put seedlings in dirt that has a lot of cow patties. Composted cow shit can go in your holes that you are digging but small plants don't need a lot of food, especially if they don't have a lot of light to convert that food.
Click to expand...


Yeah I have two lamps I can use one is just a desk light hahaha but its bright and the other one is a old grow light someone threw away lol and my jew instincts took over hahaha

I'll just use normal CFL bulbs unless I can find a cheap grow box or a windshield sun reflector

Then I can try to find a good bulb

And yeah ik im planning on just mixing in about a handful or two per hole with the dirt im using to fill it in with
 
tytheguy111

tytheguy111

Well-Known Member
anzohaze said:
can you afford to buy some shit if so get kelp meal, ewc, oyster shells some bone meal and a few other things 100 dollars worth of ammendments. Dig holes tilling does not go deep enough throw in old rotten log chunks, mix ammendments withe soil you dug out hole and as you add dirt back keep adding rotted logs. You now have plenty ammements plenty aeration and lent grow. Every so often top dress if needed and etc
Click to expand...

By tilling I ment dig a hole and chop up the dirt I digged up so its airy

And rotten logs if I dont have the money to buy all that stuff you listed?

I can do that lol I've been trying to find something in a river that I sunk a few months ago and theres quite a few logs
 
abe supercro

abe supercro

Well-Known Member
here i plagiarized this for you:

In order to give plants a chance to grow from seed to mature, fruit-bearing plant, gardeners need to start plants indoors during the cold late winter, and transplant them outside once the temperatures are warm enough to support proper plant growth. “Hardening off” is the process of moving plants outdoors for a portion of the day to gradually introduce them to the direct sunlight, dry air, and cold nights. Below are step-by-step instructions given by Norma Rossel, Quality Assurance Manager for Johnny's Selected Seeds.
  1. Harden off gradually, so that seedlings become accustomed to strong sunlight, cool nights and less-frequent watering over a 7-10 day period.
  2. On a mild day, start with 2-3 hours of sun in a sheltered location.
  3. Protect seedlings from strong sun, wind, hard rain and cool temperatures.
  4. Increase exposure to sunlight a few additional hours at a time and gradually reduce frequency of watering, but do not allow seedlings to wilt. Avoid fertilizing.
  5. Keep an eye on the weather and listen to the low temperature prediction. If temperatures below the crop's minimum are forecast, bring the plants indoors or close the cold frame and cover it with a blanket or other insulation.
  6. Know the relative hardiness of various crops. Onions and brassicas are hardy and can take temperatures in the 40's. After they are well hardened off, light frosts won't hurt them. Warm-season crops such as eggplants, melons and cucumbers prefer warm nights, at least 60° F. They can't stand below-freezing temperatures, even after hardening off.
  7. Gradually increase exposure to cold.
  8. After transplanting to the garden, use a weak fertilizer solution to get transplants growing again and to help avoid transplant shock. Be sure to water plants after hardening them off.
Hardy plants, can be hardened off when the outside temperature is consistently above 40° F. Half-Hardy plants may be hardened off at 45° F.
 
calicocalyx

calicocalyx

Well-Known Member
Rotting logs and wood products can actually pull nitrogen away from your plants as they break down, at least up until a certain point when it becomes available for the plant. Tilling is great but the soil settles and compacts, that is why perlite or lava rock helps keep it airy. Dry amendments help a lot and are easier to move to your spot and go a long way. Rabbit, llama, alpaca, sheep, and goat shit don't need to break down too much if at all so won't burn your plants.
 
greasemonkeymann

greasemonkeymann

Well-Known Member
anzohaze said:
I'll give ya some help he's smart as hell when it comes to this and.makes It work cheap he is a no all in my opinion... @greasemonkeymann
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Ahh my friend, you are too kind. I appreciate the kind words.
calicocalyx said:
Rotting logs and wood products can actually pull nitrogen away from your plants as they break down, at least up until a certain point when it becomes available for the plant. Tilling is great but the soil settles and compacts, that is why perlite or lava rock helps keep it airy. Dry amendments help a lot and are easier to move to your spot and go a long way. Rabbit, llama, alpaca, sheep, and goat shit don't need to break down too much if at all so won't burn your plants.
Click to expand...
Ok, so you are 100% CORRECT on the second part, wood products can and will rob your soil of nitrogen and not ot mention increase soil temps from it breaking down, that is the issue with folks that like pine products for aeration.
But rotten wood on the other hand, not only is a superb way to retain water and increase not only your BIM colony but also any AACT that you may want to introduce as well, it "conditons" the soil to a nice perfect humid state as opposed to retaining too much water. In my opinion biochar and rotten tree logs chunks are the best aeration you can get, but keep in mind you still want other types, such as pumice or volcanic rock, you can also use perlite too but I prefer different aeration myself.
Rotten tree chunks are damn awesome, really, really great addition to any soil.
Just be sure it is full broken down or it will indeed cause issues in your soil, if you can crumble it with your hand, you are golden.
it does the exact thing that an un-composted sompost would do, simply needing nitrogen to break-down, but you want the stuff that is waaaaaay past that.
rotten tree logs are so far beyond any of that stuff you don't need to worry about it.
 
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tytheguy111

tytheguy111

Well-Known Member
greasemonkeymann said:
Ahh my friend, you are too kind. I appreciate the kind words.

Ok, so you are 100% CORRECT on the second part, wood products can and will rob your soil of nitrogen and not ot mention increase soil temps from it breaking down, that is the issue with folks that like pine products for aeration.
But rotten wood on the other hand, not only is a superb way to retain water and increase not only your BIM colony but also any AACT that you may want to introduce as well, it "conditons" the soil to a nice perfect humid state as opposed to retaining too much water. In my opinion biochar and rotten tree logs chunks are the best aeration you can get, but keep in mind you still want other types, such as pumice or volcanic rock, you can also use perlite too but I prefer different aeration myself.
Rotten tree chunks are damn awesome, really, really great addition to any soil.
Just be sure it is full broken down or it will indeed cause issues in your soil, if you can crumble it with your hand, you are golden.
it does the exact thing that an un-composted sompost would do, simply needing nitrogen to break-down, but you want the stuff that is waaaaaay past that.
rotten tree logs are so far beyond any of that stuff you don't need to worry about it.
Click to expand...

What about mulch or gravel with that help too?
 
abe supercro

abe supercro

Well-Known Member
mulch is used to retain moisture and as a weed barrier.

rock has no water holding capacity or porosity, for O2 or mycos, and therefore deadweight imo.
 
abe supercro

abe supercro

Well-Known Member
like grease monkey said, only rotten wood as an ammendment. assume you meant to place gravel in the hole, which I don't see a purpose for.

greasemonkeymann said:
Ahh my friend, you are too kind. I appreciate the kind words.

Ok, so you are 100% CORRECT on the second part, wood products can and will rob your soil of nitrogen and not ot mention increase soil temps from it breaking down, that is the issue with folks that like pine products for aeration.
But rotten wood on the other hand, not only is a superb way to retain water and increase not only your BIM colony but also any AACT that you may want to introduce as well, it "conditons" the soil to a nice perfect humid state as opposed to retaining too much water. In my opinion biochar and rotten tree logs chunks are the best aeration you can get, but keep in mind you still want other types, such as pumice or volcanic rock, you can also use perlite too but I prefer different aeration myself.
Rotten tree chunks are damn awesome, really, really great addition to any soil.
Just be sure it is full broken down or it will indeed cause issues in your soil, if you can crumble it with your hand, you are golden.
it does the exact thing that an un-composted sompost would do, simply needing nitrogen to break-down, but you want the stuff that is waaaaaay past that.
rotten tree logs are so far beyond any of that stuff you don't need to worry about it.
Click to expand...
Q's:
Can I make my own bio-char by burnin wood and collecting the black chunky remains?

Is there a natural brand of charcoal that may be satisfactory as a bio-char.
 
oldtimer54

oldtimer54

Well-Known Member
When I first started out and money was tight I did just what you're suggesting ........and there's absolutely nothing wrong with that but I would have been preparing my soil all during the off season or at least buying amendments for the upcoming grow. The solo cup thing isn't a bad idea for the short term but you may want to transplant into something larger which will decrease watering and give extra room for developing root systems. I would recommend some inexpensive bag soil which can be purchased at any garden shop , Lowe's or home depot to incorporate into the native soil along with other amendment's all of which you can find out about on this site .
I wish you the best of luck because you've been bitten by the bug my friend. I startrted doing this in the early 70's outside and have continued doing so every year since.
The only change I've made is I now use LED's for inside grows now... but I just can't stop using mother nature in all her glory but on a much smaller scale than when I was a younger man
Once again good luck my friend!
 
greasemonkeymann

greasemonkeymann

Well-Known Member
abe supercro said:
like grease monkey said, only rotten wood as an ammendment. assume you meant to place gravel in the hole, which I don't see a purpose for.



Q's:
Can I make my own bio-char by burnin wood and collecting the black chunky remains?

Is there a natural brand of charcoal that may be satisfactory as a bio-char.
Click to expand...
You know I believe one of the dons is the guy to ask for that, I've never done it.
I think it was @DonPetro
Or maybe @DonTesla
I just got a bag of the hippy natural wood chunks and busted them up. I think it was called cowboy charcoal or something?
Good shit though, i'll never NOT have biochar again. Between that and the rotten wood the soil is a perfect humid state that still drains well, perfect for fuzzy white roots.
You can mulch too if you need to, but keep in mind that too much can keep the soil too moist, and typically in a forest, moisture is already there, so your goal is to increase the nutrients and aeration, as cannabis likes both of those in fairly large amounts. I personally will use mulch during the summer time to keep things "happier" but in the winter and spring I don't use any mulch, I find it can sometime create powder mold issues with strains that are prone to that, kushs in particular, too damn stout, and too dense and too close to the soil surface so it transpires the soils water into the foliage.
personally if I were you, i'd dig a big ole hole and fill it up with a good soil mix that is meant more for cannabis, ie lots of aeration. In the ground you want LOTS.
I'd dig about a garbage can sized hole or bigger, and get a nice homemade mix to fill it with.
Cowpatties are ok, but you can do better, but on a budget it'll work, if you want to have a manure based mix i'd go with rabbit or alpaca..
I'd strongly recommend getting kelp, crab, neem and alfalfa meals in your soil mix, it's not that expensive and you'll be seeing the difference, not to mention tasting the difference
 
tytheguy111

tytheguy111

Well-Known Member
I mean the dirt from my woods is pretty black from dead leafs n stuff

I mean it doesn't have a big dick or can run fast but its still pretty black

And I can get kinda rock dust more or less sand from the bottom of a creek

Also I believe I have a random flower pot full of rocks that are redish round and kinda look like a sponge in a way

I think they'll work ill post a pic in a few minutes
 
tytheguy111

tytheguy111

Well-Known Member
greasemonkeymann said:
You know I believe one of the dons is the guy to ask for that, I've never done it.
I think it was @DonPetro
Or maybe @DonTesla
I just got a bag of the hippy natural wood chunks and busted them up. I think it was called cowboy charcoal or something?
Good shit though, i'll never NOT have biochar again. Between that and the rotten wood the soil is a perfect humid state that still drains well, perfect for fuzzy white roots.
You can mulch too if you need to, but keep in mind that too much can keep the soil too moist, and typically in a forest, moisture is already there, so your goal is to increase the nutrients and aeration, as cannabis likes both of those in fairly large amounts. I personally will use mulch during the summer time to keep things "happier" but in the winter and spring I don't use any mulch, I find it can sometime create powder mold issues with strains that are prone to that, kushs in particular, too damn stout, and too dense and too close to the soil surface so it transpires the soils water into the foliage.
personally if I were you, i'd dig a big ole hole and fill it up with a good soil mix that is meant more for cannabis, ie lots of aeration. In the ground you want LOTS.
I'd dig about a garbage can sized hole or bigger, and get a nice homemade mix to fill it with.
Cowpatties are ok, but you can do better, but on a budget it'll work, if you want to have a manure based mix i'd go with rabbit or alpaca..
I'd strongly recommend getting kelp, crab, neem and alfalfa meals in your soil mix, it's not that expensive and you'll be seeing the difference, not to mention tasting the difference
Click to expand...

All I got is a Lowe's hardware and southern states
 
DonPetro

DonPetro

Well-Known Member
greasemonkeymann said:
You know I believe one of the dons is the guy to ask for that, I've never done it.
I think it was @DonPetro
Or maybe @DonTesla
I just got a bag of the hippy natural wood chunks and busted them up. I think it was called cowboy charcoal or something?
Good shit though, i'll never NOT have biochar again. Between that and the rotten wood the soil is a perfect humid state that still drains well, perfect for fuzzy white roots.
You can mulch too if you need to, but keep in mind that too much can keep the soil too moist, and typically in a forest, moisture is already there, so your goal is to increase the nutrients and aeration, as cannabis likes both of those in fairly large amounts. I personally will use mulch during the summer time to keep things "happier" but in the winter and spring I don't use any mulch, I find it can sometime create powder mold issues with strains that are prone to that, kushs in particular, too damn stout, and too dense and too close to the soil surface so it transpires the soils water into the foliage.
personally if I were you, i'd dig a big ole hole and fill it up with a good soil mix that is meant more for cannabis, ie lots of aeration. In the ground you want LOTS.
I'd dig about a garbage can sized hole or bigger, and get a nice homemade mix to fill it with.
Cowpatties are ok, but you can do better, but on a budget it'll work, if you want to have a manure based mix i'd go with rabbit or alpaca..
I'd strongly recommend getting kelp, crab, neem and alfalfa meals in your soil mix, it's not that expensive and you'll be seeing the difference, not to mention tasting the difference
Click to expand...
I believe it may have been @DANKSWAG who made his own bio-char. I like the Duraflame hardwood lump charcoal from home depot. I usually just collect the smaller bits at the bottom of the bag. Royal Oak is good too as well as Cowboy. Just make sure its says lump charcoal and not briquettes.
abe supercro said:
like grease monkey said, only rotten wood as an ammendment. assume you meant to place gravel in the hole, which I don't see a purpose for.



Q's:
Can I make my own bio-char by burnin wood and collecting the black chunky remains?

Is there a natural brand of charcoal that may be satisfactory as a bio-char.
Click to expand...
 
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