Yellow leaves need help

Great Lemon Skunk

Great Lemon Skunk

Well-Known Member
Well i got this cherry og(fem) shes about 3-4 weeks old indoor in some organic potting mix i have fed her some dyna grow foilage pro at 1/4 tsp 3 times but she still has yellow leaves can someone help me idk the ph but i do know i got hard water around here.

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mmjmon

mmjmon

Well-Known Member
Do you have a picture or 2? Are all of them yellow or just a couple at the bottom? How long have you been feeding? 3-4 weeks and you fed nutes 3x? How old on your first feeding?

Let us know, we'll help ya. A picture speaks a thousand words though...
 
Great Lemon Skunk

Great Lemon Skunk

Well-Known Member
mmjmon said:
Do you have a picture or 2? Are all of them yellow or just a couple at the bottom? How long have you been feeding? 3-4 weeks and you fed nutes 3x? How old on your first feeding?

Let us know, we'll help ya. A picture speaks a thousand words though...
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can you not see my pics?
 
Squidbilly

Squidbilly

Well-Known Member
It looks like they are hungry, IMO.

BUT the first thing I would do is check your ph. If you ph is off the plant won't be able to uptake certain, or any, nutrients. That is why ph is so important. That is always the first thing a grower should check at the sign of trouble. Eliminate that and I would say they are showing signs of nitrogen deficiency. Also you have purple petriols, or the stems of your leaves. This can indicate a P deficiency, but it also goes hand in hand with the N deficiency. These are usually signs that the plant wants food. If you have been feeding her then I would I would your ph is wacky.

Hope this helps.
 
Great Lemon Skunk

Great Lemon Skunk

Well-Known Member
Squidbilly said:
It looks like they are hungry, IMO.

BUT the first thing I would do is check your ph. If you ph is off the plant won't be able to uptake certain, or any, nutrients. That is why ph is so important. That is always the first thing a grower should check at the sign of trouble. Eliminate that and I would say they are showing signs of nitrogen deficiency. Also you have purple petriols, or the stems of your leaves. This can indicate a P deficiency, but it also goes hand in hand with the N deficiency. These are usually signs that the plant wants food. If you have been feeding her then I would I would your ph is wacky.

Hope this helps.
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yea it does thanks what do you use to ph your water? ive got some aqua team or something like that test strips that you dip into your water but every times i use them it seems like it reads something deifferent
 
H

harris hawk

Well-Known Member
"N" toxicity cut down on you "n" feeding, flush for one week , re-adjust your nutrient feeding; always starting at reduced rates. Your baby will come out of it -"nutrient burn"
 
Squidbilly

Squidbilly

Well-Known Member
Great Lemon Skunk said:
yea it does thanks what do you use to ph your water? ive got some aqua team or something like that test strips that you dip into your water but every times i use them it seems like it reads something deifferent
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You need a digital ph meter, look on ebay. It's really important to know your ph. If it was nutrient burn it would be showing up on the tips of new growth, not just take the color out of lower and older growth. Nutrient burn doesn't cause the stems to turn purple either.

As for adjusting the ph of your nutrient solution I recommend a ph up and ph down product meant for hydroponics.
 
Great Lemon Skunk

Great Lemon Skunk

Well-Known Member
Squidbilly said:
You need a digital ph meter, look on ebay. It's really important to know your ph. If it was nutrient burn it would be showing up on the tips of new growth, not just take the color out of lower and older growth. Nutrient burn doesn't cause the stems to turn purple either.

As for adjusting the ph of your nutrient solution I recommend a ph up and ph down product meant for hydroponics.
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yeah i got the ph up an down just dont got a pen you know of a good brand or any brands to stay away from?
 
Squidbilly

Squidbilly

Well-Known Member
Milwalukee ph600 is a good, cheap, easy to calibrate model. Under $50.00. Hanna is a good brand. Like anything else, stick to well known brands. Know it's something you might not have forever. Whether you go cheap or expensive you should still replace every it every year.

Make sure you buy calibration solution, your meter should be calibrated at least once a week. If you have to order it I suggest getting 2. I also suggest having a back up regaurdless but if there isn't a hydro store near you and you have to order one, get two.

You should also have a TDS or EC meter, either one will work. Most people I know in the u.s. go with the TDS meter which gives a ppm(parts per million) reading. Ec measues electrical conductivity I believe. They both measure the same thing, and it's prefrence. Just like I use tsp./gal instead of ml/L. This is how you'll get an accurate read of exactly how much fertilizer you mix up. Just going by measurements is very inaccurate. I go by measurements when I mix my nutrient solution but I check it with my TDS meter before I water my plants with it. This let's you increase/decrease your fertilizer with accuracy and gives you peace of mind about what your doing. If you know EXACTLY how much you fed your plants it makes it easier to diagnose a problem.

These are two tools every grower should have. I use both my meters everyday. As soon as I wake up, assuming I am home, I go to my resevior and I check the ph and the ppm. I know from experience that everything should be right where I want it to be, but I check it anyway to stay ahead of a problem. If I checked it one morning and my ph was really high, I know somthing is up-maybe my resevior temps are too high, or I have a biological issue, but because I stay on top of checking these things I avoid prolems.

I also frequently check my run-off to make sure the TDS is on point. If the runoff TDS is higher then the feed i'm giving them, then I know salt has built up in the medium and it's time for an irragation/flush with 1/4strength solution. Again, these tools are your friends and when you use them your plants stay happy and healthy.
 
Great Lemon Skunk

Great Lemon Skunk

Well-Known Member
Squidbilly said:
Milwalukee ph600 is a good, cheap, easy to calibrate model. Under $50.00. Hanna is a good brand. Like anything else, stick to well known brands. Know it's something you might not have forever. Whether you go cheap or expensive you should still replace every it every year.

Make sure you buy calibration solution, your meter should be calibrated at least once a week. If you have to order it I suggest getting 2. I also suggest having a back up regaurdless but if there isn't a hydro store near you and you have to order one, get two.

You should also have a TDS or EC meter, either one will work. Most people I know in the u.s. go with the TDS meter which gives a ppm(parts per million) reading. Ec measues electrical conductivity I believe. They both measure the same thing, and it's prefrence. Just like I use tsp./gal instead of ml/L. This is how you'll get an accurate read of exactly how much fertilizer you mix up. Just going by measurements is very inaccurate. I go by measurements when I mix my nutrient solution but I check it with my TDS meter before I water my plants with it. This let's you increase/decrease your fertilizer with accuracy and gives you peace of mind about what your doing. If you know EXACTLY how much you fed your plants it makes it easier to diagnose a problem.

These are two tools every grower should have. I use both my meters everyday. As soon as I wake up, assuming I am home, I go to my resevior and I check the ph and the ppm. I know from experience that everything should be right where I want it to be, but I check it anyway to stay ahead of a problem. If I checked it one morning and my ph was really high, I know somthing is up-maybe my resevior temps are too high, or I have a biological issue, but because I stay on top of checking these things I avoid prolems.

I also frequently check my run-off to make sure the TDS is on point. If the runoff TDS is higher then the feed i'm giving them, then I know salt has built up in the medium and it's time for an irragation/flush with 1/4strength solution. Again, these tools are your friends and when you use them your plants stay happy and healthy.
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alright thanks man for the info imma start looking for the stuff now
 
Squidbilly

Squidbilly

Well-Known Member
They are both tools every grower should have.

The PH pen takes priority, so if $ is an issue then just get a ph pen. MAKE SURE YOU GET CALIBRATION SOLUTION with your ph meter. You should make sure your meter is calibrated at least a couple times a month. I calibrate mine every week.

I grow in coco/perlite and I keep my ph between 5.5-6.0. This is the range that my nutrient solution has to be in for my plants to stay happy and healthy. If I go outside of that range I will start seeing all kinds of deficiencies and weird lock-outs almost immediately. PH is very important.

Soil is different then hydro, it has some buffering capabilities so it can handle a different rang of ph. Off the top of my head I do not know the rang for soil, just google it. I think it's 5.8-6.2 or something like that-but like I said, i'm not positive.
 
T

TurnNBurn

Active Member
Is it getting worse or staying the same? You may have fixed the problem the leaves will not turn green again but you will cause another problem if you over feed. If it is an amended soil you shouldn't have to feed much yet your problems maybe coming from a lockout. I grow soil and rarely ph my water anymore unless adding ferts and it swings from 7.4 to over 8 so your problems are maybe from watering schedule or your environment.
 
Great Lemon Skunk

Great Lemon Skunk

Well-Known Member
dought it be root bound all ready but you never know and it aint overwater i water every 3 days right now and on the 3rd day its pretty dry so wouldnt think its that an it might be under fed but i am feed at 1/4 tsp of Dyna grow foliage pro
 
sourdiesel404

sourdiesel404

Member
ph is off you said you have hard water an no ph meter i can almost gurantee your ph is off an it should be between 6.0-6.5 for soil no higher no lower
 
T

TurnNBurn

Active Member
It's a month old how big is your pot? I transplant from a 32 oz to a 2 gal after 2-4 weeks depending on the strain. I just say that because that's how mine look when they need to be moved to a bigger pot they start getting deficiencies.
 
lilroach

lilroach

Well-Known Member
Have you ever wondered how farmers grow their crops without PH up and down? Do you ever follow an outdoor pot growers thread and read about adjusting PH?

No.

How on earth do they get to harvest without fucking with their PH? I feed directly from tap to plants and have had zero...zip....no problems with my plants and my tap water is 8.1.

Everyone......if you're growing in soil stop focusing on the correct PH.....soil buffers PH. Every time I read someone suggesting another grower's issue is PH that just tells me they haven't a clue (IN SOIL). In a word....FUCK PH!

I'll give the same advice I gave on another thread a minute ago....get that plant into a 3-5 gal container that is filled with good soil and you'll be ok.

Pot is very easy to grow....all you have to do is stop fucking with it.
 
Great Lemon Skunk

Great Lemon Skunk

Well-Known Member
well guys heres a lil update the plant has gotten a lil worse im thinking of transplant soon i have moved it outside and it seems to have got a worse deficiency can yall help me figure out whats wrong with her???
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