Which would produce more DO in a DWC?

kingtitan said:

How is this air pump? the 70L and 100L both say its 60 decibel, is it loud? I am looking at RDWC 6-9 site with 5 gal buckets but I I am trying to size the pumps. Thinking about ditching my current Promix soilless.

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The pump by itself may seem a little loud. But, when it's running with the other equipment, it pretty much blends in. The pump rocks! Super powerful. I'm only using four stones with it. I think if I were to run as many sites as you're planning, I would go up to the 110lpm pump.

There are ways to reduce the pump noise. Having it suspended in air keeps a lot of vibration noise down. Also, keep the main hose off the wall. The vibrations can translate from the pump to the wall, and create noise. You can also build a soundproof box for the pump. If it came to noise vs output, I'd put up with the noise for the additional power. You can get pretty creative in reducing the noise.

These pumps run hot though, so expect some heat added to the room, unless you run the pump remotely. I have my tent exhaust fan blowing on my pump, and it stays cool to the touch. I keep mine mounted high to keep the room's cool air at the floor and warm air towards the ceiling.

JSB99 said:

I tend to agree with the notion that it's harmful to microbes.

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definitely. bacteria don't like chlorine.
if your tap already has it in there, run a sterile res and then it becomes a non issue.

kingtitan said:

How is this air pump? the 70L and 100L both say its 60 decibel, is it loud? I am looking at RDWC 6-9 site with 5 gal buckets but I I am trying to size the pumps. Thinking about ditching my current Promix soilless.

Click to expand...

Also, consider using HDX totes (27-gallon) to replace every two buckets. The totes allow you to hold so much more water. And, the flat edges are way easier to seal bulkheads than the rounded edges. I was going to use buckets as well, but went with the totes after enough people told me that was a much better way.

rkymtnman said:

definitely. bacteria don't like chlorine.
if your tap already has it in there, run a sterile res and then it becomes a non issue.

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I'm big on sterilizing and cleaning, and I think I put more effort into it after this latest harvest, than when I had started it.

JSB99 said:

I'm big on sterilizing and cleaning, and I think I put more effort into it after this latest harvest, than when I had started it.

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have you gotten a water analysis from your muni water source? they have to provide one for free.

if the chlorine is already 1 to 2ppm, you can go up to 5ppm and still be safe for humans and plants. and then save your money on buying bennies.

rkymtnman said:

have you gotten a water analysis from your muni water source? they have to provide one for free.

if the chlorine is already 1 to 2ppm, you can go up to 5ppm and still be safe for humans and plants. and then save your money on buying bennies.

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Yes I've seen the water analysis report, and made sure I wasn't mistaken about the chloramine, as using chloramine has pretty much become the standard with city water. That's not to say they won't add chloramine at any time, but for now, they only use chlorine. The water in OR is really good so I can't imagine it takes much treatment.

rkymtnman said:

have you gotten a water analysis from your muni water source? they have to provide one for free.

if the chlorine is already 1 to 2ppm, you can go up to 5ppm and still be safe for humans and plants. and then save your money on buying bennies.

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I figure at some point I'll get an RO filter and use the reservoir for the treated water.

JSB99 said:

I figure at some point I'll get an RO filter and use the reservoir for the treated water.

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i was saying if your water is fine and you are just worried about the chlorine via the RO system, don't fight it. either use HTH pool shock or Dutchmaster Zone (chlorine), UC roots, etc and just run a sterile system.

JSB99 said:

The pump by itself may seem a little loud. But, when it's running with the other equipment, it pretty much blends in. The pump rocks! Super powerful. I'm only using four stones with it. I think if I were to run as many sites as you're planning, I would go up to the 110lpm pump.

There are ways to reduce the pump noise. Having it suspended in air keeps a lot of vibration noise down. Also, keep the main hose off the wall. The vibrations can translate from the pump to the wall, and create noise. You can also build a soundproof box for the pump. If it came to noise vs output, I'd put up with the noise for the additional power. You can get pretty creative in reducing the noise.

These pumps run hot though, so expect some heat added to the room, unless you run the pump remotely. I have my tent exhaust fan blowing on my pump, and it stays cool to the touch. I keep mine mounted high to keep the room's cool air at the floor and warm air towards the ceiling.

View attachment 4059932 View attachment 4059933

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Thanks! I will look at using totes, I am still figuring out all the RDWC stuff. I have a 5x9x6.5 tent with a 1000w. I am only using 5x5 area and the rest is for equipment and room for me to work around and for my hot peppers/veggies under some house LEDs. I currently have 10 plants in 4gal containers and its a bit too much, 9 would have worked better for spacing but I am thinking maybe 6 maybe a good number?

Ill probably just run the pump remotely in the next room (furnace room bare concrete) where I have all my power outlets/timers/variac and my RO unit. I may even want to put the reservoir in here on the concrete for cooling which would be about a 10 foot hose run but the reservoir would be a foot away from the floor drain. Been having a mild winter here so temps haven't dropped to the usual -20 or below like usual so I don't know if it may make the reservoir too cold. Right now my RO garbage pail is at 17c on a piece of high density insulation foam, bare concrete it can get colder which wuld work lights on but not sure about off.

JSB99 said:

I figure at some point I'll get an RO filter and use the reservoir for the treated water.

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I've got two, one downstairs for drinking water, and one upstairs for drinking water and I fill a holding tank with it as well.

this one is upstairs, I got the one with the case but it sits under the sink so I never see it anyway

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IB14XDU/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&th=1

and then I just got one of the clamp on drains, and one of these

https://www.amazon.com/Angle-Adapter-Valve-Connect-Fitting/dp/B00CF452QG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1513625141&sr=8-1&keywords=sink+adapter+ro+1/4

but I bought the clamp on drain and that adapter at home depot so they're john guest and cost an arm and a leg

It only takes around 12 hours to fill up my 44 gallon holding tank.

If your city ever adds chloramines to your water then it's simple to add a DI cartridge to it. Just need a filter housing, refillable media cartridge and some DI resin, and a couple fittings.

rkymtnman said:

i was saying if your water is fine and you are just worried about the chlorine via the RO system, don't fight it. either use HTH pool shock or Dutchmaster Zone (chlorine), UC roots, etc and just run a sterile system.

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I was just talking about getting one if they start putting chloramine in the water. Otherwise, I'm pretty happy with it.

JSB99 said:

I was just talking about getting one if they start putting chloramine in the water. Otherwise, I'm pretty happy with it.

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10-4 good buddy! gotcha.

rkymtnman said:

10-4 good buddy! gotcha.

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"10-4"
70's CB radios and big rigs immediately come to mind when I hear any kind of "CB talk"!

And then this song gets stuck in my head all day!

"East bound and down, loaded up and truckin',
We're gonna do what they say can't be done.
We've got a long way to go and a short time to get there.
I'm east bound, just watch ol' "Bandit" run.…"

YEEHAW!!! LOL!

JSB99 said:

"10-4"
70's CB radios and big rigs immediately come to mind when I hear any kind of "CB talk"!

And then this song gets stuck in my head all day!

"East bound and down, loaded up and truckin',
We're gonna do what they say can't be done.
We've got a long way to go and a short time to get there.
I'm east bound, just watch ol' "Bandit" run.…"

YEEHAW!!! LOL!

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too funny dude! me and the wifey just watched it last week. i forgot how fucking brilliant sheriff buford t justice was in that. he never once read from the script the whole shoot. and how he'd ask his assistant for a burger which was code for a full glass of bourbon.

rkymtnman said:

too funny dude! me and the wifey just watched it last week. i forgot how fucking brilliant sheriff buford t justice was in that. he never once read from the script the whole shoot. and how he'd ask his assistant for a burger which was code for a full glass of bourbon.

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LOL! Such a classic!

Watch, some day some studio will want to make some money from a remake of it, and they'll hire Christopher Nolan or JJ Abrahams to direct a dark and serious version of Smokey and the Bandit LOL!

dstroy said:

Do you have to pay for water? If you don’t you can run that through the coil. And it will chill your res, still need the thermostat hooked up to a valve so it doesn’t make the res too cold.

Pumping nutrient solution through the coil, with the coil in the air is extremely inefficient and likely will not cool the res down at all, this would also require a thermostat and valve or power to the pump to regulate flow.

Having a chiller in the room, that is air conditioned already is not too much of a challenge. A 1/10hp chiller is around 300watts at the outlet while it is running. Less heat than you think, and easy to figure out if you have the cooling capacity for it.

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It draws 300 watts plus the heat removed, plus the heat of compression so it also adds up. So yes getting it out of the room is a good thing.

Budley Doright said:

It draws 300 watts plus the heat removed, plus the heat of compression so it also adds up. So yes getting it out of the room is a good thing.

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Well no, that's not quite how it works but you are right about adding everything up. You can't get more energy from a system than what you put into it. This is the first law of thermodynamics.

Mine is in my room, and it's not that bad.

It's just 300w, the heat that is generated is the efficiency.

The compressor is going to turn almost all of the amperage that it draws (which isn't more than watts at the wall but makes up the majority of the power because the fan is less than 100w) into heat because of the nature of phase change.

The fan is going to make some heat.

And the process is going to generate some heat.

But it won't be more than the running wattage (300w) of heat. To be safe you can just multiply the running wattage (in my case 300w) by the BTU conversion which is 3.41.

300 x 3.41 = 1023 Btu/hr

So it adds 1k btu that needs to be cooled, negligible if you have the cooling capacity.

dstroy said:

Well no, that's not quite how it works but you are right about adding everything up. You can't get more energy from a system than what you put into it. This is the first law of thermodynamics.

Mine is in my room, and it's not that bad.

It's just 300w, the heat that is generated is the efficiency.

The compressor is going to turn almost all of the amperage that it draws (which isn't more than watts at the wall but makes up the majority of the power because the fan is less than 100w) into heat because of the nature of phase change.

The fan is going to make some heat.

And the process is going to generate some heat.

But it won't be more than the running wattage (300w) of heat. To be safe you can just multiply the running wattage (in my case 300w) by the BTU conversion which is 3.41.

300 x 3.41 = 1023 Btu/hr

So it adds 1k btu that needs to be cooled, negligible if you have the cooling capacity
.

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Ummm you may want to check out a heat pump and the amount of heat produced versus power used. Check out the performance on a 24,000 btu one for instance and get back to me. Have a look at the COP's. Not wanting to argue but we're talking refrigeration effect, moving heat as well as the mechanical process to move it which is where the wattage comes in. Anyways check out the heat pump and get back to me, pm me as to not corrupt this thread please.

Budley Doright said:

Ummm you may want to check out a heat pump and the amount of heat produced versus power used. Check out the performance on a 24,000 btu one for instance and get back to me. Have a look at the COP's. Not wanting to argue but we're talking refrigeration effect, moving heat as well as the mechanical process to move it which is where the wattage comes in. Anyways check out the heat pump and get back to me, pm me as to not corrupt this thread please.

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This isn’t a heat pump, which are vastly more efficient than a l2a chiller, it's a l2a chiller. Heat pumps are so much more efficient because they do not work the same way as a water chiller, they have a four way reversing valve which allows them to turn the evaporator into a condenser and vice versa, they move heat but work on the same principle. So I just got back to you.

I literally described the entire process to figure out the how much heat, even with an added cushion.

You do not understand that it cannot make more than 300w of heat, which is the amount of energy you put into it.

That would mean that it would be more than 100% efficient, which would mean that it generates more energy than is put into it. Which is simply impossible.

I have a very good grasp of the engineering principles behind heating and cooling.

JSB99 said:

Also, consider using HDX totes (27-gallon) to replace every two buckets. The totes allow you to hold so much more water. And, the flat edges are way easier to seal bulkheads than the rounded edges. I was going to use buckets as well, but went with the totes after enough people told me that was a much better way.

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what about these square light proof ones? they are 4 gal but I could use a 15gal tote as the reservoir to make up some water volume.