What's my problem?! Please help - first grow - pics

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Blitz35

Well-Known Member
The pics actually don't look bad at all. That one pic where the yellow leaf is visible might be lack of light since it only seems to be that one leaf. Otherwise, that leaf is showing nitrogen missing. Nute lockout isn't only caused by ph issues, it can also get locked out if you put in too much of another element causing a seperate one to be locked out. Like putting too much calcium will lock out magnesium, among other things. In cases like that, it's best to flush to get rid of an excess of one element disturbing others. The little purple tips can happen and from my experience, i get them as well but only at this time of year, it's when temps drop below 70.

Just saw the 'led' pics, it's easier to see there. Ya, that yellowing looks to be nitrogen missing, and in 2 other pics, it appears to be magnesium getting low as well. This is when the plant is using the most magnesium, once you hit mid flowering. Magnesium works in conjunction with phosphorus, so as magnesium gets low, the plant also will not be able to uptake phosphorus, even if it's there. Add 1 teaspoon of epsom salt to a gallon of water next watering. Keep watching and don't add too much, but magnesium, especially at this stage, is critical!
 
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alphapinene

alphapinene

Well-Known Member
Blitz35 said:
The pics actually don't look bad at all. That one pic where the yellow leaf is visible might be lack of light since it only seems to be that one leaf. Otherwise, that leaf is showing nitrogen missing. Nute lockout isn't only caused by ph issues, it can also get locked out if you put in too much of another element causing a seperate one to be locked out. Like putting too much calcium will lock out magnesium, among other things. In cases like that, it's best to flush to get rid of an excess of one element disturbing others. The little purple tips can happen and from my experience, i get them as well but only at this time of year, it's when temps drop below 70.

Just saw the 'led' pics, it's easier to see there. Ya, that yellowing looks to be nitrogen missing, and in 2 other pics, it appears to be magnesium getting low as well. This is when the plant is using the most magnesium, once you hit mid flowering. Magnesium works in conjunction with phosphorus, so as magnesium gets low, the plant also will not be able to uptake phosphorus, even if it's there. Add 1 teaspoon of epsom salt to a gallon of water next watering. Keep watching and don't add too much, but magnesium, especially at this stage, is critical!
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thanks for that info on magnesium, interesting. My ladies are due for a drink but I was debating whether i Should just give them regular water now until my Ph test kit comes on Monday then check ph and see from there or feed some sort of amendment now (like you said epsom, worm casting tea, etc) with the watering.
 
alphapinene

alphapinene

Well-Known Member
also by the way, if it means anything...The water I have been using is crystal geyser alpine spring water....this water has a ph of 6.8 according to their site
 
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Blitz35

Well-Known Member
checking ph is of course the most important aspect as unless that's known, it's hard to diagnose the problem, very hard to tell if something is deficient or locked out without it:) Roots organic i believe is primarily composed of coco and peat moss? It's technically 'soilless'. Ph should be kept closer to 6. Veering above 6.5 will cause issues with many elements, except nitrogen..that can be absorbed almost everywhere. If this was a brand new bag of soil when planted into it, you may be able to get away with just plain water, but the plants are hungriest at this stage. If you can wait till monday to water/feed, that's best. Otherwise, ya, you can use that water, but if you have a deficiency, running plain water through it, will only exasperate that deficiency.
 
alphapinene

alphapinene

Well-Known Member
Blitz35 said:
checking ph is of course the most important aspect as unless that's known, it's hard to diagnose the problem, very hard to tell if something is deficient or locked out without it:) Roots organic i believe is primarily composed of coco and peat moss? It's technically 'soilless'. Ph should be kept closer to 6. Veering above 6.5 will cause issues with many elements, except nitrogen..that can be absorbed almost everywhere. If this was a brand new bag of soil when planted into it, you may be able to get away with just plain water, but the plants are hungriest at this stage. If you can wait till monday to water/feed, that's best. Otherwise, ya, you can use that water, but if you have a deficiency, running plain water through it, will only exasperate that deficiency.
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hmmm...the primarily peat moss/coco is their other soil product '707' the original soil i'm using consists of Perlite, Coco Fiber, Peat Moss, Composted Forest Material, Pumice, Worm Castings, Bat Guano, Soybean Meal, Alfalfa Meal, Fish Bone Meal, Kelp Meal, and Greensand. i guess it comes lightly amended? damn i'm stuck in a little predicament right now, my soil is kind of dry- I feel if I wait till monday my ladies will be dehydrated/wilting. I usually water every 3 days but lately they need water every 2 days..I also fed last watering....would not waiting until I figure out my PH be that disastrous? or am i just stressing too much
 
Lucky Luke

Lucky Luke

Well-Known Member
alphapinene said:
hmmm...the primarily peat moss/coco is their other soil product '707' the original soil i'm using consists of Perlite, Coco Fiber, Peat Moss, Composted Forest Material, Pumice, Worm Castings, Bat Guano, Soybean Meal, Alfalfa Meal, Fish Bone Meal, Kelp Meal, and Greensand. i guess it comes lightly amended? damn i'm stuck in a little predicament right now, my soil is kind of dry- I feel if I wait till monday my ladies will be dehydrated/wilting. I usually water every 3 days but lately they need water every 2 days..I also fed last watering....would not waiting until I figure out my PH be that disastrous? or am i just stressing too much
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I'd feed it. You got this far without knowing the ph.

Its hungry. Worry about the ph later.
 
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Blitz35

Well-Known Member
You answered it at the start..the bag contains coco and peat moss, the rest are ammendments added to it. Ph should be near 6 or even a tad below..swinging between 5.8-6.3 is good. If you fed last watering, you can get away with it i suppose..Add a teaspoon of epsom to the gallon of water..that adds about 100ppm of magnesium sulphate. Maybe your spring water has some calcium in it as well. The plants will drink more now for the next 2+ weeks.
 
alphapinene

alphapinene

Well-Known Member
Blitz35 said:
You answered it at the start..the bag contains coco and peat moss, the rest are ammendments added to it. Ph should be near 6 or even a tad below..swinging between 5.8-6.3 is good. If you fed last watering, you can get away with it i suppose..Add a teaspoon of epsom to the gallon of water..that adds about 100ppm of magnesium sulphate. Maybe your spring water has some calcium in it as well. The plants will drink more now for the next 2+ weeks.
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I don't have epsom right now..need to go out tomorrow to pick some up...what if I added 3 tablespoons of worm castings to each container as a topdress with the watering? are there enough water-soluble micronutrients to help the plant out a bit? sorry for these questions i';m a complete noob
 
Flagg420

Flagg420

Well-Known Member
Nothing will help.

Several people have told you the answer, and so far, I don't think you have acknowledged it once.

You know the problem, you just want people to tell you there a magic ingredient to fix your problem.

I'll say what several other have... You have a Ph problem. Your plants are burning and going pale at the same time, as the plant eats itself to stay alive. You are feeding them, but they are not eating. They are drinking, and its just building up the nute salts...

But at no point have YOU said anything about Ph. Not the Ph of your base water, the nute solution you use, the soil, or the run off.....

You are adding a shit-ton of 'stuff' already.... this is a simple plant. KISS the plant. "Keep It Simple Stupid."

You are doing the equivalent of tearing the PC apart to take out the power supply...... because you refuse to check if its unplugged from the wall.
 
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Blitz35

Well-Known Member
alphapinene said:
I don't have epsom right now..need to go out tomorrow to pick some up...what if I added 3 tablespoons of worm castings to each container as a topdress with the watering? are there enough water-soluble micronutrients to help the plant out a bit? sorry for these questions i';m a complete noob
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Worm castings are amazing, but it's more of a soil conditioner/amendment than actual food. You can put as much as you desire, it won't harm the plants. Not sure how effective it is when top dressing as oppose to putting it at the root system. it helps with water retention in the soil, aeration, stabilizes ph so you dont get wild swings, can 'hold' nutrients for the plant until it needs it, avoiding toxicities of heavy metals to an extent, contains humic acid which is great too! I wasn't able to get it this year, and had some issues compared to last year when i had it.
 
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Blitz35

Well-Known Member
Im not sold that it's a ph issue..i think the plant would look far worse if it was ph. With the ammendments in the soil and worm castings, and watering with bottled water at 6.8, i dont know if the medium had a chance to go out of ph range. It only takes a deficiency/toxicity of one element to throw everything off in short time if not corrected. It doesnt seem that bad really..the slight intervenial paling at the middle/top seems to be magnesium. If the issue was ph..then calcium wouldnt be absorbed either, or phosphorus..which would then lead to an iron, copper, zinc deficiency. Mid flower starting..plants get their hungriest..especially for magnesium and potassium generally.
 
alphapinene

alphapinene

Well-Known Member
Blitz35 said:
Worm castings are amazing, but it's more of a soil conditioner/amendment than actual food. You can put as much as you desire, it won't harm the plants. Not sure how effective it is when top dressing as oppose to putting it at the root system. it helps with water retention in the soil, aeration, stabilizes ph so you dont get wild swings, can 'hold' nutrients for the plant until it needs it, avoiding toxicities of heavy metals to an extent, contains humic acid which is great too! I wasn't able to get it this year, and had some issues compared to last year when i had it.
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Blitz35 said:
Worm castings are amazing, but it's more of a soil conditioner/amendment than actual food. You can put as much as you desire, it won't harm the plants. Not sure how effective it is when top dressing as oppose to putting it at the root system. it helps with water retention in the soil, aeration, stabilizes ph so you dont get wild swings, can 'hold' nutrients for the plant until it needs it, avoiding toxicities of heavy metals to an extent, contains humic acid which is great too! I wasn't able to get it this year, and had some issues compared to last year when i had it.
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shit is black gold!!!!
 
B

Blitz35

Well-Known Member
alphapinene said:
Next grow i'm definetely making a subcool super-soil......
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I was looking into that, but it would be too much of a mess trying to 'cook' it in my living room for months lol. Was going to try hydro, but it would be too difficult to control the temps. I'll stick to my pro mix for now, but surely getting worm castings in the spring and added mycorrhizae, plants love it!!!
 
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waterproof808

Well-Known Member
There are a lot better soil recipes than super soil. Supersoil uses a lot of redundant ingredients and it still calls for buying bagged soil and not reusing it. Here is an article on why the recipe is not so good. https://buildasoil.com/blogs/news/12533881-whats-so-cool-about-super-soil-the-super-soil-recipe-breakdown

I recommend you check out the recipes on buildasoil.com They even sell kits so all you have to do is add it to some peat moss and it can be used right away. They are a really great company out of colorado, very transparent regarding all the products they sell, they are always testing and refining their soil mixes to make sure it has everything a proper soil needs.
 
alphapinene

alphapinene

Well-Known Member
okay so I just ran a ph test with the 3-1 moisture/light/ph meter probed about 4 - 5 inches into the soil...the results..
G13 x Haze #2: 7 ph
G13 x Haze #1: 7.2-7.5 ph
Harlequin x ACDC (candidacd1) #2: 7.2-7.5 ph
Harlequin x ACDC (candida) #1: 7-7.2 ph

guessing too high? flush and redo feeding?

I also received a cal mag supplement (0.25-0-0.1) Dolomite lime, calcitic lime, fish protein hydrolysate and gypsum
20% Ca
5% Mg
1% S

and a 100% seabird guano 0-12-0 with nitro bat guano coming
 
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