What's good for fading green leaves mid flower

These are just finishing up, and look great!

A slower release N in the soil mix will help......if your into building soils

Your fert mix could go down in P some and up in N some...
Don't start high P feeding until 2 weeks after the flip

I have to say I'm glad I posted because all of the replies point to what I've been doing wrong. It started out good so I thought a little more would be better and I've end up almost killing my plants. I'll be feeding the tea from now on with the molasses instead of the plant. There are some very good pearls of information that I'll keep with me. Thank you. And I will be going to 10 gallon pots

Craig1969SS said:

Both strains were grown in 5 gal fabric pots with fox farms ocean forest, extra perlite and moss. I amended the soil with fish bone meal, myco, azomite, seabird guano, alfalfa and kelp. After 6 weeks of vegetating I start 12/12 and started feeding with liquid budswel (seabird & bat guano with ewc) from the guano company. I add 2 tablespoons of molasses to this and areated for a few hours. What I've noticed is around 4-5 weeks into flower I start getting pale green leaves and sometimes stems. Not all of them all the time but enough to get irritated that it's happening again. Am I lacking something in N or K? I areate the soil using a slim probe to keep it loose and the roots aren't bound.

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That's totally normal for a plant to have the leaves fade as the plant buds. I always think it's good because the plant is using using up all of the nutrients. It means that the plant isn't over-fertilized. In any case, it's not reversible. The plants look good.

oldbikepunk said:

That's totally normal for a plant to have the leaves fade as the plant buds. I always think it's good because the plant is using using up all of the nutrients. It means that the plant isn't over-fertilized. In any case, it's not reversible. The plants look good.

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I've come to realize it now I couldn't reverse the process no matter what I did or applied. It happens to some but not all. I'm laying off the molasses though, it'll go into an areated tea instead. I have more seeds of the same so I'll see how they compare. But you are correct in saying their near chop. I have an AK47 coming down in a week, it's yellow as can be but again I'm guilty of weekly molasses in the budswel I feed with. I'll post pics of it. Thanks for taking a minute to reply

Here's two C99 planted together 6 weeks into bud. The one on the right is now yellowing top to bottom 2 was later but it seems further along. The one on the left still remains green although it is not as thick Lev The one on the left still remains green although it is not as thickly budded. Trichomes are clear on both. These of been really finicky delicate touchy plants. I thought they might be autos. Really hard to get started and into a bigger container.

Craig1969SS said:

I have to say I'm glad I posted because all of the replies point to what I've been doing wrong. It started out good so I thought a little more would be better and I've end up almost killing my plants. I'll be feeding the tea from now on with the molasses instead of the plant. There are some very good pearls of information that I'll keep with me. Thank you. And I will be going to 10 gallon pots

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I just got some bigger pots also! They should help, I was having the same problem for a while. Plants were getting rootbound

Craig1969SS said:

Here's two C99 planted together 6 weeks into bud. The one on the right is now yellowing top to bottom 2 was later but it seems further along. The one on the left still remains green although it is not as thick Lev The one on the left still remains green although it is not as thickly budded. Trichomes are clear on both. These of been really finicky delicate touchy plants. I thought they might be autos. Really hard to get started and into a bigger container.

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some interesting spears you have there!! with their age (guessing 5wk or a little more into flower) i wouldn't be worrying about the yellowing.

did you start those from seed?

ShLUbY said:

some interesting spears you have there!! with their age (guessing 5wk or a little more into flower) i wouldn't be worrying about the yellowing.

did you start those from seed?

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You bet, never seen such odd little plants. Trichomes are cloudy/clear with a few ambers. Soo aromatic and sticky they are. I pegged it as fruit stripe gum. Good guess it's 6 weeks.

Craig1969SS said:

I have to say I'm glad I posted because all of the replies point to what I've been doing wrong. It started out good so I thought a little more would be better and I've end up almost killing my plants. I'll be feeding the tea from now on with the molasses instead of the plant. There are some very good pearls of information that I'll keep with me. Thank you. And I will be going to 10 gallon pots

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Here is the AK right before harvest this morning @ 8 weeks. It's been under a ushio enhanced hps 600watt. Buds are much firmer/tighter than what I've grown before and quite sticky.

green_machine_two9er said:

I like to think of ca as a macro nutrient. Along the lines of npk. We need alot! Of calcium. Double what we need of mg. If thr ratio is off lockout will occur. Molasses does have a bit of mg. Not the right ratio to be good for a nutrient source. In fact if yoi have neek useing bsm for each feeding you will most def have ca lockout caused by excessive mg. Bsm is really best to fees microbial life during an aact ( air active compost tea) and should only br applied in this tea 3-4 times entire grown cycle. Nutrient teas should not have bsm. Imo of course. And if your fade was N you will see it start at bottum with single leaves going completely yellow and dieing off. Bottum up for N. Whole plant lightens is gunna be ca. Necrosis and crispy brown leaves. Is usualy mg.

Hit em with aact. 4 g water. 4 tbsp bsm. 2-4 cups ewc. Bubble for 36 hours snd strain.

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Now I know what was wrong with my plants. Thanks!

The reason why we didn't evolve an extra stomach is because our ancestors developed a digestive system centered around simple sugars, not complex carbs. But that has nothing to do with why veganics isn't the best option for plants. Poop, provided by animals that eat what they are designed to eat, is beneficial for plant growth. I would say human feces is one of the least beneficial poop out there since we are prone to eat processed junk and other items which are hard to digest. But that's a whole other topic about the bacterial diversity of animal digestive systems.

Does anyone else use fish emulsion? I know it stinks, but it is not a problem if it is not in your house.
I have been using it for mid-flower if they look like they need something. I am no pro, so I would like to know if I am wrong for using it?

MustangStudFarm said:

Does anyone else use fish emulsion? I know it stinks, but it is not a problem if it is not in your house.
I have been using it for mid-flower if they look like they need something. I am no pro, so I would like to know if I am wrong for using it?

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There is no one best single material from a generic crop perspective since different crops have different nutrient needs. So selection of individual amendments such as cottonseed meal, alfalfa meal, corn meal, seaweed and/or kelp meal, hay, leaves, grazing animal manures, etc. can be used to meet a variety of plant nutrition objectives. But NONE of such amendments provide ANY DIRECT nutritive effect since roots cannot utilize such, in presented form.

Changing the structure (molecular form) of such amendments, thereby making them accessible to plant roots as a food source is accomplished by means of enzymatic liquification or by microbial decomposition (or both). A combination of human gut enzymes and acids - in liquid form and in proper proportion applied to such amendments in either an aerobic or anaerobic environment, will speed the microbial process. An anaerobic artificial 'digestion' process (such as using Dr. Higa's EM fermentation technology) is sometimes used, but since a crop rhizosphere is an aerobic environment, general consensus recommends aerobic conditions be utilized for best results to eliminate the need for a lengthy anaerobic-to-aerobic microbial re-conversion process.

The difficulty with regard to an aerobic microbial decomposition process is in obtaining a highly-concentrated source of the full soil microbiological community to perform the decomposition process to attain nutrient-cycling - strictly an aerobic process and since the speed and quality of aerobic microbial decomposition depends on the concentration of microbiology applied to the process - the higher a concentration used, the better and faster.

A relatively new breakthrough in advancement of the old "compost tea" technology (that has never been accepted by the scientific community due to its lack of consistency of replication) is called Liquid Microbial Concentrate (LMC) that is capable of producing the full community of aerobic soil microbiology in 24 hours. A 48-hour brew time attains a bacterial / protozoan population, while a 72-hour brew can exceed ten to the 25th power per ml - much higher than the best compost tea was able to produce, and with a very high consistency of replication. Presently being prepared for presentation to the USDA as a viable product for approval for use by the global agricultural industry.

So general consensus nowadays is to increase soil nutrient cycling by means of liquid application, which is less expensive than adding a variety of solid amendments and waiting for in-soil biology to process amendments into plant food.

The humic acids produced by the soil biological community are known to play a part in the nutrient-cycling process, but science does not yet know how to qualify or quantify that process. What we do know is that humic acids play a role in certain aspects such as nutrient retention, mineral chelation, etc. So commonly, when liquid compost is applied, humic and refined fulvic acids are added as Fortifiers.

Soil fertility by organic means is a matter of microbial nutrient cycling (saprophytic process of turning dead organic material into organic matter with an increasing level of amphorous humus content). Adding organic material to soil does not increase soil fertility per se - because it requires that material to be broken down (decomposed) by the full community of saprophytic microorganisms (primarily aerobic) by their enzymatic activity.

There is one COMBINATION of organic materials that is highly effective in raising soil fertility in sand, silt or clay and ANY percentage combination of each, called COMPOST.

Composting is NOT a natural phenomenon - it is a man-created method of speeding-up nature's saprophytic process. A leaf falling from a tree may take up to a year (or more to decompose sufficiently, whereas that same leaf processed in a QUALITY (non-commercial) composting process (which I have practiced professionally for over 50 years) will only take 12-18 weeks to begin adequate nutrient-cycling function.

MustangStudFarm said:

Does anyone else use fish emulsion? I know it stinks, but it is not a problem if it is not in your house.
I have been using it for mid-flower if they look like they need something. I am no pro, so I would like to know if I am wrong for using it?

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only issue with the emulsion vs the hydrosylate is the heavy metals, and the heat process that destroys the beneficial enzymes.
it works well to supplement nitrogen, also a alfalfa tea would work for that too.

greasemonkeymann said:

only issue with the emulsion vs the hydrosylate is the heavy metals, and the heat process that destroys the beneficial enzymes.
it works well to supplement nitrogen, also a alfalfa tea would work for that too.

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See, I didnt know that there was a difference between hydroslate and emulsion!!! Do I have the cheap stuff or what? I got it from a landscaping store

MustangStudFarm said:

See, I didnt know that there was a difference between hydroslate and emulsion!!! Do I have the cheap stuff or what? I got it from a landscaping store

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nah man it'll work, the hydrosylate is more for teas and such, the emulsion is basicly ground up and somewhat heat treated fish.
i'll see if I can find a link somewhere that has more specifics
here you go man, but keep in mind it's published by the company pushing their hydrosylate.
but the info is still accurate
http://www.neptunesharvest.com/emulsions.html

greasemonkeymann said:

nah man it'll work, the hydrosylate is more for teas and such, the emulsion is basicly ground up and somewhat heat treated fish.
i'll see if I can find a link somewhere that has more specifics
here you go man, but keep in mind it's published by the company pushing their hydrosylate.
but the info is still accurate
http://www.neptunesharvest.com/emulsions.html

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Thanks for the link! I noticed that when I mixed the emulsion, the PH would be 4.5 or so. I didnt adjust it, but I didnt think that it was right either.
I bet that I would have better results with Neptune's harvest!

MustangStudFarm said:

Thanks for the link! I noticed that when I mixed the emulsion, the PH would be 4.5 or so. I didnt adjust it, but I didnt think that it was right either.
I bet that I would have better results with Neptune's harvest!

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don't worry about adjusting any ph on organic liquid foods, almost all are acidic.
You'll be chasing your tail on that one.
One of the reason I prefer meal based nutrients, a lil easier to control all that

Plant is fine it's going through a natural phase, fan leaves are giving buds their nitrogen, check nitrogen levels in bloom fertilizer are always low.

Craig1969SS said:

Both strains were grown in 5 gal fabric pots with fox farms ocean forest, extra perlite and moss. I amended the soil with fish bone meal, myco, azomite, seabird guano, alfalfa and kelp. After 6 weeks of vegetating I start 12/12 and started feeding with liquid budswel (seabird & bat guano with ewc) from the guano company. I add 2 tablespoons of molasses to this and areated for a few hours. What I've noticed is around 4-5 weeks into flower I start getting pale green leaves and sometimes stems. Not all of them all the time but enough to get irritated that it's happening again. Am I lacking something in N or K? I areate the soil using a slim probe to keep it loose and the roots aren't bound.

Click to expand...

Haven't read others responses But I honestly just throw a small handful of Blood meal on top and in 2days the yellow leaves turn green! The sativas destroy nitrogen and Everytime I have added it as too dressing it's work great!