HazednConfused
Well-Known Member
The thing is my 250w fixture is going to do better than the 450 actual watts of the r900. Cobs are a whole different ballpark than the red and blue diodes.
What light to get?
- Thread starter BlueBerryMango
- Start date
MMJ Dreaming 99
Well-Known Member
Nice build bro.
MMJ Dreaming 99
Well-Known Member
Turn them biotches up but wear good eye protection and a baseball cap when you are in the room.
Rahz
Well-Known Member
The problem with red/blue is that lamp manufacturers don't generally publish PPF or PAR watt values, therefore nobody has any real idea of how many grams the red/blue spectrum can produce per par watt.
It's generally understood that those figures aren't published because the emitters that are generally used are cheap/inefficient and it wouldn't be good advertising to make it easy to see how much light is actually being purchased. If someone were to do some testing par watt -vs- par watt for white and red/blue then we would know the efficacy of those spectrums compared to one another. If red/blue did provide a better yield per par watt then it would be a matter of producing a lamp with similar efficiency to what's offered in white. Even if red/blue turned out to be a better spectrum it still doesn't matter if the output compared to the input is not good.
This is why I've tried over the years to frame things in terms of PAR watts and PAR watts per foot rather than watts and watts per foot. PAR watts isn't the perfect horticultural measurement but it's not bad either. If a lamp is inefficient that "50 watts per foot" isn't the same as 50 watts from a more efficient lamp regardless of what spectrum is being used.
It's generally understood that those figures aren't published because the emitters that are generally used are cheap/inefficient and it wouldn't be good advertising to make it easy to see how much light is actually being purchased. If someone were to do some testing par watt -vs- par watt for white and red/blue then we would know the efficacy of those spectrums compared to one another. If red/blue did provide a better yield per par watt then it would be a matter of producing a lamp with similar efficiency to what's offered in white. Even if red/blue turned out to be a better spectrum it still doesn't matter if the output compared to the input is not good.
This is why I've tried over the years to frame things in terms of PAR watts and PAR watts per foot rather than watts and watts per foot. PAR watts isn't the perfect horticultural measurement but it's not bad either. If a lamp is inefficient that "50 watts per foot" isn't the same as 50 watts from a more efficient lamp regardless of what spectrum is being used.
BlueBerryMango
Active Member
I'm growing in a 2x4 tent so I'll need half that specs.
coreywebster
Well-Known Member
With your budget and that space you have so many options. The companies Cobkits listed are all on here and advertise, they can be trusted and contacted easily.
You wont need 400w of cobs in that space. 200w of quality light will blow you away.
BlueBerryMango
Active Member
Can I build on top of it; so if I don't really like 200w I can add 1 more 90watt to it or whatever they are, 1 more light and make it 300w?
Growcob5
Active Member
The gentleman that replied that said that you should get a all why you like you know you can get 10 cops for 100 box and two drivers to run them and it would be no different than the life that you're buying and said it would be more efficient so you would be spending 230 some dollars for Hunter box for cops her 30 Box Tops for drivers. And $100 Arctic heatstinks
330$ what's your total hype seen people spend $100 on one very powerful chip and put it on the reflector itself of the HP ass and not use the HP ask Bob and just the reflector with the heat sink an led an no more hps
330$ what's your total hype seen people spend $100 on one very powerful chip and put it on the reflector itself of the HP ass and not use the HP ask Bob and just the reflector with the heat sink an led an no more hps
coreywebster
Well-Known Member
You could upgrade the driver to power them harder. Or buy something more powerful if you really want to. Or go the DIY route and have more control, but you would need to learn a bit more first. DIY isn't hard but it can be a bit of a frightening idea when you first start learning. I knew nothing about LEDs when I built mine.
upsetter.
Active Member
What?
BlueBerryMango
Active Member
I just want something like this, I think on the left side.
Where it's full spectrum, but apparently plants don't really use green, I've also been told that is also a myth. Idk that's why I'm here though to get pointed to the right direction and not dump 100s more into lights until I know what to get.
I already spent 110$ on lights going the CFL way and 50$ Testing a small 45w LED.
Also the 3000k and 4000k options, what would be the better one to go with all that stuff
Where it's full spectrum, but apparently plants don't really use green, I've also been told that is also a myth. Idk that's why I'm here though to get pointed to the right direction and not dump 100s more into lights until I know what to get.
I already spent 110$ on lights going the CFL way and 50$ Testing a small 45w LED.
Also the 3000k and 4000k options, what would be the better one to go with all that stuff
Last edited:
HazednConfused
Well-Known Member
Trust me bro, I've done many cfls grows and have wasted countless dollars on different cfl light rigs and box's. I've also done the full spectrum led lamps. And honestly, all those $100's wasted experimenting could have been put towards a beast cob light that will actually get the results they claim.
I gave my buddy a $12 lohas 3000k 100w cob light, cheap Chinese shit to run beside his 450 vipar because I felt bad for him. His plants started growing with the vigor they should after he added it. Even a cheap cob setup works. Get a cheap build off Amazon for under $150 if u don't want to jump into "expensive" cobs.
And the spectrum you would want if you wanted to use your lights from start to finish would be 3500k or 4000k, 3500k my preference.
P.s. I'm not a paid spokesperson or endorsed by any LED company. Lol, I could really care less who you give your money to. Just honest opinions.
Last edited:
Johnny Lawrence
Well-Known Member
That's really the max.
I'm running a 4x8 tent with cobs at 28 watts per square foot and absolutely crushing it.
The Timber light I linked to will cover that area, but this would be ideal - http://timbergrowlights.com/250-watt-citizen-clu048-5-cob-grow-light-kit/
Frames are super easy to build. Just build a 3 and a half foot frame for that Citizen kit, and you'll still be within budget.
HazednConfused
Well-Known Member
My seedlings are controlled under the cobs, dimmed to 25w a cob. Controlled meaning they're not stretching really at all and the growth I'm seeing is all horizontal instead of vertical, which is what I want. Easily manageable light.
Attachments
Johnny Lawrence
Well-Known Member
What???
HazednConfused
Well-Known Member
You would think with that name he would know what he's talking about.
Johnny Lawrence
Well-Known Member
Perhaps he does. Communication skills are what he seems to be lacking.
bakedPotatoe
Active Member
Thats the whole point with leds.....
They can be made to suit the needs of the plants we love.
Blurple light is old news does it grow plants yes,but can you get better then them...yes you can.
You talk about heat,no matter what you choose there will be heat,but you dont need the wattage because the new style of leds allows the grower better light from there fixtures...
I was a old sckool HPS guy till i ran into leds,you need less watts and with that you end up with less heat.
If you want to look at grows try @REALSTYLES he im sure along with others have very decent grows with cobs and now more grows are coming out with the new led panels that are floating around.
They work either cobs or QB type panels.
BlueBerryMango
Active Member
Ok well sounds good.
So if I went the cob way, how does the ballast sounds, loud humming or anything?
Turns on and off good, no delay because of power interference like you might get with MH & HPS???
I'll have to look into these kits, and I'd like a straIght forward lamp, no switching from veg to bloom, it would be better overall to get the grow done from seed to harvest under the same lighting.
So if I went the cob way, how does the ballast sounds, loud humming or anything?
Turns on and off good, no delay because of power interference like you might get with MH & HPS???
I'll have to look into these kits, and I'd like a straIght forward lamp, no switching from veg to bloom, it would be better overall to get the grow done from seed to harvest under the same lighting.
HydoDan
Well-Known Member
Led power supplies are as quiet as they can get.. Not even fan noise.. totally silent.. Turn em off and on as much as you want, no delay.. I have three DIY led lights.. A 35 watt EB strips for seedlings.. 135 watt Quantum board kit for veg and 400 watts of cobs for flower.. Cobs and quantum boards are about equal in growing power..