What am I doing wrong (yield issue)?

JustCurious79

Active Member
I've had major yield issues. Not once have I exceeded 0.3g/w. I'd like to know what I'm doing wrong.
-My grow system is a Wilma 4 XL. I change the water once a week, and I also flush the tank to get rid of as much of the old water as I can.
-Temp shouldn't be an issue during the cold months. I've yet to see how my CoolTubes perform in regard to this, but my old open hoods weren't usually a problem.
-My feeding schedule is Advanced Nutrients hobbyist level and I normally bloom for 8 weeks or until the plants have an obvious problem. I've tried professional grower level with no obvious success. For blooming plants I follow the dosage found on AN's homepage, 4ml/l grow-micro-bloom and 2ml/l whatever that week requires.
As stated, my yields have been at most 0.3g/w and normally more like 0.2. Soil I couldn't get to work at all, therefore I do hydro only.
The only thing I could put my finger on would be poor tapwater quality. This is a known issue in the whole town, but I wouldn't outright believe it would be THAT bad. Any other ideas before I seriously run off to get a reverse osmosis thingy?
 

Nullis

Moderator
How many plants in the grow space, or per meter squared? How large do they get? What is your lighting, type and wattage? Distance from canopy? Etc. Etc. Pictures of the whole ordeal would help us help you better.

What else can you tell us about your tap water?
 

nomofatum

Well-Known Member
Things we need:
Plant pictures (multiple stages if possible)
Lighting Details
SQFT of the space
Water info (if tap or well we will minimally want hardness grains or PPM, magnesium, iron, and calcium numbers are nice though)

Could be water issues, could be overfeeding, underfeeding, too little light, wrong spectrum light, ...
 

explosive82

Well-Known Member
alot of times you can be limited by your genetics but imo there is always something someone can do better hope you find out that info
 

Hugo Phurst

Well-Known Member
Try RO water from the grocery store for a couple of weeks, if you see an improvement you can make a decision then.

I did DWC with AN Hobbist, I found it worked best at about 3/4 strength.
 

bripay50

Active Member
TRY FUCKIN WITH SOIL... IVE BEEN USING ROOTS ORGANIC AND FOX FARMS SINCE MY 1ST GROW AND IVE BEEN GETTING DECENT YIELDS
EVEN WITH NO NUTES
 

bripay50

Active Member
LOL AND I DOUBT THE TAP WATER IS THAT TERRIBLE LOL

TRY LEAVING THE WATER OUT FOR 2 DAYS B4 WATERING
 

nomofatum

Well-Known Member
tap water has clorine in it nuff said... but yo we need pics
It has chlorine for a few hours, but the chlorine quickly evaporates. If you are worried, do as the previous poster said, leave you water out for 24 hours before use with an airstone bubbling the water.
 

blowincherrypie

Well-Known Member
I spent many hundreds of dollars on RO water and honestly believe my ladies have been better now that I'm using my tap. I know quality varies but if it is ok for you to drink (meaning you wont get sick, or havent been told to not drink it) it is just fine for the plants.. Or if you can grow quality vegetables with it, than the water isn't the issue..

Have you checked for bugs?
 

JustCurious79

Active Member
Grow room: 3*3*6 tent, and four plants total would make one plant per 2.25 square foot.
Lighting previously non-branded 400W HPS, now 600W CoolTube. I keep the light as close to the roof as I can since it's connected to the exhaust fan. Shouldn't matter too much.
Normally I veg the plants to some 2 feet in height. During flowering they easily triple their height, growing relatively close to the light.
Tapwater in town is said to have a pH of 8.0 a hardness of 9.3 dH.
I'm very sorry but I still don't want to share pictures.
 

bass1014

Well-Known Member
dude its your lights.. you said I keep them close to the roof due o the fan.and you said they are 2 feet when flipped and they get 3 times the size and get up to the light.. you need to get some type of system so you can raise n lower your light. your light needs to be close to the plants but not so close it burns them.. when they grow your raise your lights. with a cool tube you should be able to get to about 12'' from the plant.. I bet your plants are very linky and very thin.. get the lights as close as possible with out burning them. you will see double to triple the yield..
 

RM3

Well-Known Member
It has chlorine for a few hours, but the chlorine quickly evaporates. If you are worried, do as the previous poster said, leave you water out for 24 hours before use with an airstone bubbling the water.
Chloromine does not evaporate quickly, takes a week or more, your 24 hours with airstone will remove approx 20%
 

xXOnyxXx

Well-Known Member
man if you're using a 600hps keep it at about 15 to 24 inchs above the canopy top you have your light to high and there for you are causing alot of stretch. in a cool tube with a 600hps you should only rally worry about radiant heat .. i run a temp probe 14 inchs below my light on a string just for my own curiosity. any way get that light down as close as you can without bleaching your tops!!!
 

RM3

Well-Known Member
man if you're using a 600hps keep it at about 15 to 24 inchs above the canopy top you have your light to high and there for you are causing alot of stretch. in a cool tube with a 600hps you should only rally worry about radiant heat .. i run a temp probe 14 inchs below my light on a string just for my own curiosity. any way get that light down as close as you can without bleaching your tops!!!
Damn that is where I keep my T5's LOL
 

xXOnyxXx

Well-Known Member
Chloromine does not evaporate quickly, takes a week or more, your 24 hours with airstone will remove approx 20%
yea exactly .. use RO and add calmag .... tap has a ton of garbage that ya dont wanna smoke LOL chlorine, lithium, flouride, ect..........
 

nomofatum

Well-Known Member
yea exactly .. use RO and add calmag .... tap has a ton of garbage that ya dont wanna smoke LOL chlorine, lithium, flouride, ect..........
Fuck CalMag. I'm so sick of that stupid waste of money product. Epsom + Calcium Sulfate if you really have to add them back in.
 
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