Want to run CXA3070 at 80w is that Safe, What driver?

iPot

Well-Known Member
I want to run a cxa3070 at 80w has anyone done this? What drivers and heat sinks have you used?

I also wanted to know if I could run the 5 in parallel and use a bigger driver. I want a total of 400w of leds being used.

Thanks for any help.
 

iPot

Well-Known Member
I was thinking about this one. 5 cre cxa3070 wired in paralle. it should equal 2.2a and 30ish volts each. does anyone have experience with this driver ot running them this wayk? i saw in another thread a guy said he needed something starting with a "d", it was a led driver to make sure each led was getting the same current. matter of fact it was the guy with the really clean ikea grow cab.
http://m.alibaba.com/product/60050805785/400w_high_output_led_power_supply.html?s=p
 

Abiqua

Well-Known Member
These will run a single CXA chip up to 1.95A......Meanwell HLP-80H-42
http://www.meanwell.com/search/HLP-80H/HLP-80H-spec.pdf

You can use the Meanwell HLG-185 to run 4 Cxa chips in a series, but I believe 1050 mA is the max? Maybe 1400mA.

Inventronics has several drivers that are wonky. But usually expensive, Stardustsailor did a big write up a while ago on Driver companies.
I will search around for it.......:peace:
 

Positivity

Well-Known Member
I would start with a low voltage option first. Sounds like your still new to this. High voltage will require some experience and skill. Just my advice..I wouldn't tell a friend to go high voltage on his first build..;)...unless he was an electrician. Seen way too many exposed and loose wiring on here...

Get some arctic 11 CPU coolers and run them on a affordable 1.4a driver, 50w each. Put them in some sort of frame or case if you want them organized or just enjoy the spread with them solo. 2' heat sinks are a nice option as they serve as the frame and somewhere to mount things. 200w or 4 CxA 3070 at 1.4a on a 2' sink would run really cool with a fan...and probably survive a fan breakdown.

Lots of design ideas in this led forum..

Inventronics has several drivers that are wonky. But usually expensive, Stardustsailor did a big write up a while ago on Driver companies.
I will search around for it.......:peace:
I had to look that up..lol.

wonky
weird, whacked out, messed up, not working for no definable reason. Usually applied to technology.
"Dude, you have the wonkiest computer in the world. I walked through the room and it crashed."

Can't complain...every one I've bought is still working and dimmable..:p. But if I buy anymore I'll probably go to a more affordable meanwell...maybe..hehe
 

Abiqua

Well-Known Member
@Positivity

terrible use of slang on my part. I was thinking "unique". I consider them a step above most of Meanwell's offerings and that level and not just because of price.

That parallel Inventronics driver, now that I am remembering, I posted in your thread, asking your advice.
I think they discontinued that line? Only remembering finding a vague datasheet and no vendors.... It would have been a sweet driver for multiple CXA's too! Multiple outputs of 42v's I believe.....

I just picked up some 3000k AB 3070's and really want to run this Inventronics 120xxx from FutureLighting, but its double what [2x] of the LPC-60's are running. Which is a shame, because I am kind of looking for a quick build and don't have much left to invest :)

All good advice on the low voltage, I think I will take that in stride as well :peace:
 

iPot

Well-Known Member
I would start with a low voltage option first. Sounds like your still new to this. High voltage will require some experience and skill. Justmy advice..I wouldn't tell a friend to go high voltage on his first build..;)...unless he was an electrician. Seen way too many exposed and loose wiring on here...

Get some arctic 11 CPU coolers and run them on a affordable 1.4a driver, 50w each. Put them in some sort of frame or case if you want them organized or just enjoy the spread with them solo. 2' heat sinks are a nice option as they serve as the frame and somewhere to mount things. 200w or 4 CxA 3070 at 1.4a on a 2' sink would run really cool with a fan...and probably survive a fan breakdown.

Lots of design ideas in this led forum..



I had to look that up..lol.

wonky
weird, whacked out, messed up, not working for no definable reason. Usually applied to technology.
"Dude, you have the wonkiest computer in the world. I walked through the room and it crashed."

Can't complain...every one I've bought is still working and dimmable..:p. But if I buy anymore I'll probably go to a more affordable meanwell...maybe..hehe
this would be the first time i built a light but not my first time wiriing circuts and soldering. im studying to be an engineer and what better practice than to build one.
I want to use one driver to cut cists some
 

iPot

Well-Known Member
thanks for the replies. i couldnt find any info on brightstar led drivers. it looks like i can have it customized for 5 seperate outputs. i really would like to avoid buying a driver for eaxh led.
 

Abiqua

Well-Known Member
thanks for the replies. i couldnt find any info on brightstar led drivers. it looks like i can have it customized for 5 seperate outputs. i really would like to avoid buying a driver for eaxh led.
Is there an issue with running them in series?

I would check out positivity's build, since he is running multiple cobs together off single high voltage sources. The Meanwell 185's and the Inventronix competition is certainly able.....

There are few high voltage sources without spending an assload quickly and even fewer multiple parallel sources.

DIY IC driver is another option......
 

iPot

Well-Known Member
Is there an issue with running them in series?
Is there an issue with running them in series?

I would check out positivity's build, since he is running multiple cobs together off single high voltage sources. The Meanwell 185's and the Inventronix competition is certainly able.....

There are few high voltage sources without spending an assload quickly and even fewer multiple parallel sources.

DIY IC driver is another option......
I would check out positivity's build, since he is running multiple cobs together off single high voltage sources. The Meanwell 185's and the Inventronix competition is certainly able.....

There are few high voltage sources without spending an assload quickly and even fewer multiple parallel sources.

DIY IC driver is another option......
ive looked through pos thread that is what gave me the idea. Can I put more than 38v into the cxa3070 if the current is 1.4a? If I can't that is my only issue with running series, needing to buy more leds/heatsinks. I would like to maximize watts and minimize LEDs/heatsinks. I'm content with running 350w and up.
If I can ran say 3 LEDs with the 200w 185s in series that would be about 47 volts each and 1.4a so 66w. If I can safely run 47 volts through the led that would be an option. I know meanwells are great quality.
 

iPot

Well-Known Member
i looked at this post again and it seems getting the 80w 36v driver is the most cost effecient option short of getting one huge cheap driver.
i think i will get 4 of those drivers 2 5000k and 2 3000k. what do you think about those spectrums? the lights and drivers would be ~300. it would also be easy to upgrade.

These will run a single CXA chip up to 1.95A......Meanwell HLP-80H-42
http://www.meanwell.com/search/HLP-80H/HLP-80H-spec.pdf

You can use the Meanwell HLG-185 to run 4 Cxa chips in a series, but I believe 1050 mA is the max? Maybe 1400mA.

Inventronics has several drivers that are wonky. But usually expensive, Stardustsailor did a big write up a while ago on Driver companies.
I will search around for it.......:peace:
 

Positivity

Well-Known Member
i looked at this post again and it seems getting the 80w 36v driver is the most cost effecient option short of getting one huge cheap driver.
i think i will get 4 of those drivers 2 5000k and 2 3000k. what do you think about those spectrums? the lights and drivers would be ~300. it would also be easy to upgrade.

That sounds like a good plan. It will run pretty hot at 1.9a so the dimmer may come in handy. Max voltage on the driver is 46v. I'd probably just go 3000k if it's for flowering. Unless you want to veg with it too then it may be a good addition...would be a flexible spectrum.

The 1.9a driver is 38 - 46v. 36v wouldn't be enough...CXA 3070 should run at 39v at 1.9a
 
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iPot

Well-Known Member
That sounds like a good plan. It will run pretty hot at 1.9a so the dimmer may come in handy. I'd probably just go 3000k if it's for flowering. Unless you w ant to veg with it too then it may be a good addition...would be a flexible spectrum.
yeah i also want to veg with it. is the dimmer on the driver, if so is there a way to make it externalk?
one more question will the extra amps make the cpu cooler insuficintk?
 

Positivity

Well-Known Member
yeah i also want to veg with it. is the dimmer on the driver, if so is there a way to make it externalk?
one more question will the extra amps make the cpu cooler insuficintk?
I've never used an arctic 11 but I've read they handle 1.8a well so it should be good.

That particular mean well driver seems to have 3 types of external dimming. Resistor setup would be easiest...10k would be a little more wiring but a smoother dimming function...Pwm signal would be trick but would require an arduino setup I think. Personally I'd just use a resistor..little harder to adjust the exact light output..it's jumpy...but a easy and clean setup.

I remember someone saying those open frame drivers need to be grounded at three points. So keep that in mind if using a open driver. Probably need to be put in a case with ground connections and a a/c inlet. Might be more problematic than using a encased driver made to be used externally.
 
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Abiqua

Well-Known Member
does the life shorten running at the max volts like it does running max power?
Yes..."max power" = quantum and radiometric efficiency/ output

Though, it is NOT at max, when running maximum voltage/ wattage.....Cob and LED's in general, need to driven and specific amperages [current] for better efficiency and photon output. Generally the lower you go, the more efficient, the diode usually becomes, watt for watt. Some of that is in the datasheets, in reference to Lumens / per watt and such.....
 

iPot

Well-Known Member
Yes..."max power" = quantum and radiometric efficiency/ output

Though, it is NOT at max, when running maximum voltage/ wattage.....Cob and LED's in general, need to driven and specific amperages [current] for better efficiency and photon output. Generally the lower you go, the more efficient, the diode usually becomes, watt for watt. Some of that is in the datasheets, in reference to Lumens / per watt and such.....
I'm not really following you.
When I say max power I'm talking about watts. I have read running at max wattage will shortage the life of the bulb.
Im basically asking if running at the maximum voltage, 42v, would shorten the life of the bulb.
 

alesh

Well-Known Member
You need to understand that if you apply a voltage over a diode, specific current flows through. Since this current is heavily temperature-dependent, you need something that supplies rather specific current than voltage. CC drivers are basically voltage sources that tune the voltage precisely to a value at which rated current flows through.

If you ran a CXA3070 at 42V, you'd pushing about 3A through it which would result in heavy temperature rise and much more current flowing through.

So, yes. You would probably shorten a CXA's life to few seconds.
 
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